Topic: Push/Pull Throttle Cables CB350f

[karateisland]

While taking the carbs off my 350f project, I found that the throttle cable A (pull) is broken but the throttle cable B (push) is in tact.

I found some reasonably priced reproductions for the broken throttle cable A, and I'd like to replace the B as well but I'm getting seriously turned around trying to find one that isn't super expensive.

Is it worth trying to find a replacement for the B as well? Or would it be worth trying to oil it instead? Did some digging but seemed to find some conflicting info.

Found a set of two NOS OEM for $75 but am hesitating on pulling the trigger. I'm thinking it could be worth it if the B can't be resuscitated. Can it be resuscitated? Does anyone have any tips?

[karateisland]

The perennial 350f throttle problem!

[rboe]

Some of my Guzzi friends have suggested bicycle shops in the past for cable repairs (guzzi dealers are few and far between so we have to make due). If it's just the cable inside and you have all the parts (the brass knob that is soldered on the end) I would think you are golden.

[lucky]

While taking the carbs off my 350f project, I found that the throttle cable A (pull) is broken but the throttle cable B (push) is in tact.

I found some reasonably priced reproductions for the broken throttle cable A, and I'd like to replace the B as well but I'm getting seriously turned around trying to find one that isn't super expensive.

Is it worth trying to find a replacement for the B as well? Or would it be worth trying to oil it instead? Did some digging but seemed to find some conflicting info.

Found a set of two NOS OEM for $75 but am hesitating on pulling the trigger. I'm thinking it could be worth it if the B can't be resuscitated. Can it be resuscitated? Does anyone have any tips?

I just bought a cable from Motion Pro for $13.00

BTW I hate that term "push" cable. You cannot push a floppy cable.
It is actually a pull-pull system. One cable pulls the throttle open and the other cable pulls it closed. They should name them cable open and cable close.

[scottly]

BTW I hate that term "push" cable.

If I recall correctly, you also objected to the term "team", with regards to the relay.
We all know what is meant when someone mentions a push-pull dual cable throttle set-up, and frankly, we don't care you think something should be called.

[lucky]

BTW I hate that term "push" cable.

If I recall correctly, you also objected to the term "team", with regards to the relay.
We all know what is meant when someone mentions a push-pull dual cable throttle set-up, and frankly, we don't care you think something should be called.

I like to give my opinions. You can take them or leave them.

As far as the "relay" comment it must be another person you are thinking of.

[scottly]

BTW I hate that term "push" cable.

If I recall correctly, you also objected to the term "team", with regards to the relay.
We all know what is meant when someone mentions a push-pull dual cable throttle set-up, and frankly, we don't care you think something should be called.

I like to give my opinions. You can take them or leave them.

As far as the "relay" comment it must be another person you are thinking of.

    Old Timer
    ******
    Posts: 2,653

Re: Team West - CA, AZ, NV
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2011, 07:11:05 pm »
Is "team" west northern and southern California?

I think they should call them Sections not "teams".
I just do not like the word team because it sounds like an sports event.
And we know how aggressive and violent sports fan have become.
Just my opinion.

[lucky]

I guess it was me.

Very good Scottly.

[BobbyR]

OK you have two cables, one is the throttle return cable. The problem with running a crappy RETURN cable is that you do not have smooth throttle operation.  Rather than the springs doing the work, your wrist is.

[scottly]

Sorry about the thread-jack, karate..

[karateisland]

Sorry about the thread-jack, karate..

Hey man, I understand entirely.

OK you have two cables, one is the throttle return cable. The problem with running a crappy RETURN cable is that you do not have smooth throttle operation.  Rather than the springs doing the work, your wrist is.

This is what I needed to hear. It sounds like the B cable is only worth having if it is in good condition.

I could buy some NOS OEM parts I found, but I don't know that it would fit the bars that came with my bike, as it looks to have been modded at some point for taller bars. Anyone know where is best to go for OEM or OEM-style bars? Have an ebay search out but no luck so far.

Also, unless I'm mistaken about this, it looks like the original owner was using a lighter return spring in a weird place (was attached under a bolt on the frame), so I'll have to replace the return spring as well. What a weird dude.

This is definitely taking more effort than I expected, but I won't pretend that it's not rewarding. Plus, I'm getting to know this bike better than I know my own friends.

[lucky]

OK you have two cables, one is the throttle return cable. The problem with running a crappy RETURN cable is that you do not have smooth throttle operation.  Rather than the springs doing the work, your wrist is.

I agree.
Many many years, one cable and two return springs. No problems.

[scottly]

While taking the carbs off my 350f project, I found that the throttle cable A (pull) is broken but the throttle cable B (push) is in tact.

I found some reasonably priced reproductions for the broken throttle cable A, and I'd like to replace the B as well but I'm getting seriously turned around trying to find one that isn't super expensive.

Is it worth trying to find a replacement for the B as well? Or would it be worth trying to oil it instead? Did some digging but seemed to find some conflicting info.

Found a set of two NOS OEM for $75 but am hesitating on pulling the trigger. I'm thinking it could be worth it if the B can't be resuscitated. Can it be resuscitated? Does anyone have any tips?

Is the B cable frayed? Is there any major physical damage? If so, you may need a new cable. Does it move smoothly, when removed? If not, a good flush/lube may fix it right up.

[karateisland]

Is the B cable frayed? Is there any major physical damage? If so, you may need a new cable. Does it move smoothly, when removed? If not, a good flush/lube may fix it right up.

Seems to be in pretty good shape, so I'll give that a shot. What should I flush/lube it with? I remember reading something about PB Blaster but I can't find the source any longer.

[scottly]

Look for a cable lubing kit. They come with a rubber-lined aluminum clamp, that slips over the end of the cable, and a can of lube. You stick the spray can straw into a hole in the clamp, and it forces the lube thru the cable. OK, half of what comes out of the can runs all over your hands, despite the clamp.

[karateisland]

Perfect. Thanks!

[BobbyR]

If you don't want to wait for the cable lube clamp and you are patient, you can do it by dribbling the lube down the cable. Either way wrap a rag aroung the end since as was said some will always spill out.

As cables wear they can develop small metal "whiskers" from small breaks in the strands. These sharp whiskers cause a lot of friction. Lubing will help for a while. In time it will be less effective. When the season is over you may want to buy a new cable when you get a couple of extra bucks.