Topic: Coating inside of points cover on 76 550

[CapeCafe]

I was hoping someone could tell me what Honda coats the inside of the points cover with on a 550?  I took mine off to fix a couple small dents and remove a bunch of surface rust and the solvent also removed the coating inside the cover.  Is there a reason to paint/coat it ?  Thanks.

[xsmooth69x]

i dont think there is a reason too. other than you just have to make a gasket for the points cover unless u have one

[CapeCafe]

Thanks for the response.  I do have a new gasket.  I was curious since all the photos I've seen of stock points covers have that grey coating on the inside of the cover. 

[Fritz]

i dont think there is a reason too.

There must be a reason, otherwise Honda wouldn't have bothered to do it.

I can only guess. Maybe it's restricting condensation to areas where it cannot disturb the points...

[Sniper X]

I heard it was to keep the spark from the points from grounding out on the steel cover...I say something like JB weld since that is and was what everyone used in the far past!

[CapeCafe]

Sniper- That sure seems to make sense.  i'll pick up some JB Weld and coat it.  Regardless it can't hurt.  It definently was some type of thick rubber like coating originally on the inside.  Thanks

[seanbarney41]

I used to have a cb360 with an aftermarket finned points cover.  There was no coating on the inside and you had to be real careful about how you arranged the wires inside or it would ground/short and cause running problems.  So yeah, that could make sense about the coating.

[lucky]

i dont think there is a reason too. other than you just have to make a gasket for the points cover unless u have one

There is a reason for the special paint inside the points cover.
In manufacturing they do not add ANY process or part unless there is a reason because it costs money and time.

The special paint is to prevent a spark from the condensers or points from grounding on the inside of the cover if there is condensation. It also quiets the noise made by the points.

[CapeCafe]

Looks like I'll be adding a little Rhino Liner to the inside of my points cover.  Thanks for all the help

[phil71]

what about undercoating?  Also, does anyone make a rubber gasket for that cover, instead of that cork deal?

[CB500_k2]

The cork gasket is essential for points to function properly and I would use nothing else.  Modern electronic ignitions may benefit from neoprene seals.  I always thought the coating on the inside of the point covers was to dull the sound of the points clicking together.  We are not riding Harleys which create mega decibels of sound.  Our little machines are designed to be quiet and points click could have been a serious issue for Honda engineers.

[phil71]

The cork gasket is essential ? C'mon .. Why? 

[LesterPiglet]

I would say it's for sound deadening as well as electrical insulation. That pressed steel would act like an amplifier.

[dave500]

the points are a fair way away from the cover,i doubt a spark would arc that far,the base plate itself is very close to the points anyway.

[LesterPiglet]

the points are a fair way away from the cover,i doubt a spark would arc that far,the base plate itself is very close to the points anyway.

Maybe for in the case of an accident. How many CB's have you seen with that cover bashed in?

[TwoTired]

The cork gasket is essential for points to function properly and I would use nothing else.  Modern electronic ignitions may benefit from neoprene seals. 

The cork gaskets are crap.  They are one time use only and even new ones leak if "pre-shrunk" from too much self time.  I make neoprene gaskets for all my SOHC4s.  They are reusable, and keep water from seeping into the points cavity and fouling the points in the rain.  I made the first one in the early eighties, and it still serves to this day.

I don't really know for sure what function the internal cover coating performs.  Anti-condensation seems a good bet, as there is a "drain hole" at the bottom which would let the chamber "breathe" in outside humidified air.   Then during cool down... 
I think I'll keep that coating.

Cheers,

[lucky]

what about undercoating?  Also, does anyone make a rubber gasket for that cover, instead of that cork deal?

There is a reason for that cork seal.
The points cover gets removed often so do not put gasket cement of any kind on it.
Just rub a light coat of Vasaline on ONE side and leave that cork gasket stuck to the points cover. with a little Gaskacinch if it is not already stuck on the cover.

You want the cork gasket stuck to the cover NOT the engine.

[Steve_K]

From what I have read, I may need to coat the inside of the points cover.  I am making one out of billet aluminum and that never came to mind.  I will have to mull over some the reasons stated, because none of that occurred to me.  When timing my bike, I never noticed the points making noise that I could hear.  Except when my condesors went bad and that was with cover off.
Need more info.   I thought the coating was cheaper than chrome, but that doesn't make sense, cost wise.
Steve

[dave500]

run a suitable bead of silicon around the covers gasket area,,let it set,,after cleaning the surface of course.

[DJ_AX]

Hmmm... I wonder if an old inner tube cut just right would work?

[LesterPiglet]

Hmmm... I wonder if an old inner tube cut just right would work?

Seems like an awful lot of trouble when you can just run some silicone around it.

[dave500]

you could find two off cuts off steel pipe,one the same as the outer and one the same as the inner diameter of the cover,,then grind them into large wad cutters and punch out a perfect gasket from an old inner tube,,or try scissors or find a big o ring or just use silicon,neatly with some finnesse.

[SohRon]

I make neoprene gaskets for all my SOHC4s.  They are reusable, and keep water from seeping into the points cavity and fouling the points in the rain.  I made the first one in the early eighties, and it still serves to this day.

Sooo, you gonna tell us all how to do it or what? 

[Gman]

I make neoprene gaskets for all my SOHC4s.  They are reusable, and keep water from seeping into the points cavity and fouling the points in the rain.  I made the first one in the early eighties, and it still serves to this day.

Sooo, you gonna tell us all how to do it or what? 

+1

I was just about to ask the same thing - any pointers would be appreciated to avoid reinventing the wheel, so to speak.

Cheers,
G

[Gman]

Nevermind-  just searched for it and found it.  Seems straightforward...

Tx,
G

[TwoTired]

It is very straightforward to make one.
First obtain some sheet neoprene from the hardware store.

Measure the inside lip on the points cover to get an outer diameter.  This gives you two dimensions an outer and and inner which coresponds to the "landing area" of the cover.

I used a compass to make a circular mark on the sheet neoprene.  I also have a compass where I replaced the pencil with an Exacto knife and a #11 blade.  It will cut circles around a point, but is only good for the outer diameter, and the inner diameter away from the mount holes.

If you mark the sheet you can also cut the neoprene shape out with a shears.

Once you have the outer round diameter cut, place the cover over it and stick a narrow pencil or other marking device into the mount holes of the cover to transfer those locations onto the neoprene.  I happen to have a leather punch tool to make the holes in about 10 seconds.  But, you can bevel the ends (sharpen) of a piece of tubing to make a punch, or use it as a twist drill, if you put a "bird's mouth" at the end and sharpen the mouth with a file.
Alternately you can use a Forstner type bit to cut nice round holes.  Any hole will work to allow the mount screw to pass though.

Once the hole is there, then draw a "hump" around the hole, so the hole isn't cut through when making the inner cut of the gasket.

I used gacsacinch to hold the neoprene gasket to the cover during removal.  he first one I made has been there since 1980 or so.  Still keeps the water out.

Neoprene resumes it's shape once compression loads are off.  Cork does not and remains smashed/distorted after compression, so it must be replaced after each use.  It is nearly impossible the put the cover back on in exactly the same position as before, and with the exact same compression pressure.  With neoporene, that doesn't matter.  It just re-conforms with the current fit and pressure, as long as you don't get really stupid with those hold down screws.

I think it takes me about 15 minutes to make another gasket.  Sure looks neater than gobs of silicone, to me.

Cheers,

[lone*X]

I probably made my first gasket in the early 60's while working on lawn equipment when I was in my early teens.  Back then it was paper, cork, or asbestos.   No one had to tell me how.  You looked at what was needed and what tools you had available and just did it.  I am surprised that a task as simple as this had to be explained.  TT, you did an excellent job with your explanation.  I am just a bit taken back by the need for it.   

[Gman]

No one had to tell me how.  You looked at what was needed and what tools you had available and just did it.  I am surprised that a task as simple as this had to be explained.  TT, you did an excellent job with your explanation.  I am just a bit taken back by the need for it.   

I was feeling a bit sheepish asking, as it does seem like it would be a no-brainer.  However, I am an elementary teacher, and from experience w/my students, I would rather they ask to be sure, even if it seems self-evident.  There seem to be enough quirks on these old bikes that I didn't want to assume.  Now if only the carbs were this easy...