Lloyd, That square ended cutter will never cut it. Too much tool pressure required. You might try mounting a file in your tool post to get an even "grind" or "filing" if you will. Or any square block to use as backing for sand paper, etc to try to prevent taper. Part of the taper problem may be "push off" toward the end of the workpiece farthest from the chuck that is least supported. Best, Keith
I believe you. I did one of these shafts a couple years ago.
The very end tapered, the next portion along the traverse didn't cut much at all, and the closer I got to the chuck, the more metal was removed. By the time I got the diameter down to allow bearing installation, the "root" was .003 undersize.
I did finish off the "hump " in the shaft with a file. Of course, that shaft rattled in the roller bearings just as bad as it did in the worn out bronze bearings.
I'm inexperienced when fitting the cutter. It took me years to learn it was supposed to be on turn center. Now, I know that my tool post "bed" is 11.5mm from tail stock center. So, I gauge/shim my cutter head based on that. But, the catalogs don't list what the cutter's height from bed is. And, there aren't any supply shops to walk in a measure them.
The Smithy came with no set up instructions at all. It is not a purchase I would make again. I would spend more for a better quality tool. I bought several books hoping to build up basic operational knowledge. But never found one addressed toward the total neophyte and certainly not one that addressed inherent machine deficiencies.
I don't like to blame to the tool for failed operation. However, I also know that playing a guitar with a warped neck limits what can be performed on the instrument. And lead tipped screwdriver will not allow even a master to remove ordinary screws.
To others:
I'm surprised at the recommendation of using HSS cutters on Stainless. I though that was a no-no as they lose their edge faster than carbide and often mid cut. Further, I suspect these shafts may have been originally surface hardened (or hardened in some way, so the bronze would wear, and the shafts not. Planned restoration would have been to simply replace the bronze. I just don't know where to get replacement bronze, anymore. Anyway, I thought roller bearings would be an upgrade.
I now have a suspicion that my center post is not in alignment with chuck center. The build quality on my Smithy is not very good. Cross shaft screws bind unless there is quite a bit of play in the dials (like half a turn). I can only use them if I bear in from one direction.
As a complete newb, I simply had no idea what to look for in quality when I bought the machine. So, there are many things about it that I slowly discover should have been repaired or replaced under warranty, now long since expired.
Anyway, I think I have now ruined yet another shaft, and will likely have to make another from the .250 stock I have. So, I'll sand off .002 instead of just .001.
Once more...into the breech.
Thanks all,
