Topic: Torque, torque....SNAP!!

[MRieck]

Unbelievably, I did the same exact thing last night! Even after having read this thread!! 

It's true, the shop manual basically reads like those smaller bolts should torque at the same reading as the crankshaft bearing bolts. But they do not!!

I told you so 

[andy750]

Update on snapping bolts and torquing....
.....so I spent a lot of time in the garage today...I split the cases again and found the snapped bolt was flush with the lower case meaning I had to use a 5/64 drill bit to put a hole on the centre of it...then I used a reverse drill bit that Chris had given me last night only when used with the drill it was fairly useless...I tried like this for a while with no success and numerous phone calls to Chris...finally I went back to the web site about how to remove broken/snapped bolts and followed the instructions...I tapped in the reverse screw into the failry big hole I had drilled in the snapped bolt and then used an adjustable wrench to twist ot out...took 2 mins! :-) Then I put the cases back together and torqued down the bolts - 15ft/lb for the 12 mm bolts and 8-10ft/lb for the 10mm bolts...no problems. Turned the engine over so it was upright and put in the top bolts and startor cover ;-) Now just to re-assemble the gear mechanism, the clutch and the dyna and then I can put it back in the frame :-)

Thanks to all those that replied as it really helped me a lot!
Cheers
Andy in Boston

[Bryan Boyle]

I would tend to agree with you, Chris.

Be careful with ezouts.  If the broken stud is accessible, it is much preferable to drilling it out as
far as you can (using wire size drills) and then retapping the hole, versus trying to use those infernal
back-out thingies. 

They work, in my experience, oh, about 30% of the time.  And if you snap em, well...they ain't coming
out (ionization is the expen$ive option)