As you stated I have the black/red from the rh start switch to one leg of the Headlight circuit brown with red. i do NOT have 12v here.
Next the black with yellow tracer form the rh control is inserted in the other leg of the headlight circuit brown with red tracer.
I still have no power to headlight circuit. I also have the following extra wires
Single brown with white female. Has ground with key on only, otherwise dead circuit
4 way female connector with brown/white. Also has ground with key on only otherwise dead.
The two brown tach speedo wires. They have ground but i cannot get power for them.
The single Black female . Has voltage with key on only otherwise grounded.
The un-used single brown that goes to tailights. I read your book mark and found where it stated it was for overseas use only.
I cannot figure out where the power for this circuit is supposed to come from.
I'm getting a little confused: maybe from your description of "Ground"? I'll give it a shot, though...and, I just looked closely at this schematic I linked: it is the one from Chilton, and is wrong (sorry!). They never could draw them correctly.
The lonely brown female receives power from the PARK position of the keyswitch, and is not used in US bikes. In Euro bikes, this goes to a little 3 watt light bulb in the bottom of the headlights they have: it is a parking light. You can ignore that one altogether.
The keywitch ties the Brn and Brn/Wht together when it is turned to ON (IGN) position. This passes power from the headlight bucket to the taillight, and to the other Brn/Wht circuits. These circuits are non-headlight "Lights", like taillight, instrument lights, and power to the turn signal switch. In a nutshell, that's the gist of the BRN family of wires.
BTW: any wire with a stripe in these bikes is a "switched" wire: this means it comes from something that must be switched ON to get power there. For example, those Blk/[something] wires from the START button: the button is fed with a solid BLK, but the wires coming back from it are Yel/Red for pressed IN, or Blk/Red for "unpressed" (as Honda used to call it). Solid color wires are 'feeds' (power or ground), striped wires are 'switched'. This 'method' is true for the whole bike, except the turn signals.
Back to the real questions: the BLK circuit will supply power to everything, in the headlight. This is because the Blk at the keyswitch gets connected to Red (battery) when turned only to IGN (ON) position. This Blk goes to the headlight bucket, and also to the voltage regulator, and, if your bike has one, an early Safety Module. Later Safety modules often don't have a Black, nor do post-1976 bikes.
Next: from the Blk in the headlight bucket , it goes to the Run/Off switch, the START button, the NEUTRAL light, and the turn beeper and horn, all on Blk.
The START button returns from the "unpressed" side on Blk/Red (or sometimes Blk/Yel) with 12 volts that should then go to the middle fuse on the fuseblock. This "unpressed" wire will show 12 volts when the START is not pressed, but the key is ON, IF THE BUTTON IS GOOD. Many are damaged from halogen headlights, and may not work in the unpressed state anymore. (Their nylon shell melts a little and the unpressed contacts don't meet). If yours is this way, it will need one of my 'relay kits' to solve the problem. This power will disappear when the START button is pressed. This wire must send power to the middle fuse on the fuseblock.
The Middle fuse (headlight power) wires are usually Brn/Red at the fuseblock, but may change to Blk/Red in the harness to the headlight, with harnesses from differing years (or even Blk/Brn). If you check them end to end with an ohmmeter, they will be easy to find (turn power off to search for them) for sure. So in this path, the unpressed START button sends this 12 volts to this middle fuse, then back to the headlight bucket, which then connects to the left Hi/Lo switch.
This Hi/Lo switch has a Brn/Red or Blk/Red that feeds the switch, and the returning wires are Blu (Hi) and Wht (Lo) beams. The Blu will meet up with a 3-way connection so it can light the "Hi" indicator on the dashboard, in addition to the headlight itself.
The turn signals: first, understand that they may be tied in with the running lamps in the front ones. These running lamps should turn off when the turn signal is set Left or Right, and back on when turn is cancelled. This makes things complex. The L-R switches (there are 2 of them in there, mechanically tied together) USUALLY get power from a Gry (flasher) and a Brn/Wht (running lamp power) wire in the headlight bucket.
Coming back from the L-R switch will be LtBlu (left) and an Org (right) wire, which are for the turn signals. If you have the complex L-R switch for cutting out the running lights, there will also be a LtBlu with Wht collar (left) and an Org with Wht collar (right) that plug into just the front running lamps.
I think that's all(?).
