Author Topic: 400/4 Carbs  (Read 2289 times)

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Offline thumper

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400/4 Carbs
« on: October 04, 2010, 09:17:29 AM »
  As a nrewbie to Honda 4s I would like some advice on removing and cleaning  Carbs on my  77 400/4.I have a Haynes Manual and 4 sets of gaskets.Problem is a fuel leak from 1or2 carbs I have to investigate before removeing.

Offline flybox1

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2010, 10:19:35 AM »
welcome to the forum, and SOHC4's
Check the FAQ section for general topics already covered.
enough there on most subjects to keep you reading for a while  ;)

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5410.0



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Offline thumper

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2010, 07:47:37 AM »
 I Have Carbs off the bike The No.3 is the Leaking one. I now need to clean and Refit, FAQs has little info on 400/4 carbs Haynes Manual only covers bottom of Carb No info on top half as I would like to replace needle.Anyone know if any site covers Keihin Repair.How best get them back on was a b-- getting them off.

Offline Duanob

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2010, 11:11:51 AM »
.How best get them back on was a b-- getting them off.

I know that's covered in the FAQs
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Offline tango911

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2010, 11:19:31 AM »
yeah there was a tip about the 550, to remove the battery box and the air box.   that helps to slide them out.

keep reading, sometimes it takes awhile to find the right answer.
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Offline jessezm

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2010, 12:28:37 PM »
While I've read FAQs about using a ratchet/tie down strap to pull the battery and airbox back to create a little more space, I found that I didn't need to do that the times I've taken the carbs off and on a 350 or 400.  I will say that it gets easier the more times you do it!  What I found makes it easier is having nice supple intake and manifold rubber, as there is some pushing and prodding past these parts.  If the manifolds and airbox rubbers are real old and stiff, not only is it harder to work the carbs off, but you also risk tearing or otherwise damaging the rubber.  You may want to actually try a small bit of lubricant on all of these parts to help things along.

This is just one of those things I think you have to struggle with the first couple times before it gets easier.  Sorry I couldn't give a better answer!

Offline Kevin400F

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2010, 12:42:25 PM »
I have found that if you loosen the clamp on the tube between the filter case and airbox, then shove the rubber fitting and metal tube backwards into the filter case, you can snake the airbox down past the carbs and out the right side of the bike, setting it aside completely.  Now, the fight only involves the carbs and the intake connectors to the head (which is plenty, in most cases!).

Anyway, that's my technique, and I'm stickin' to it!

Kevin

Offline jessezm

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2010, 12:43:15 PM »
Also, as for the top half of the carbs--the slides and needles--I would not recommend replacing the needles with aftermarket ones unless it is necessary--many of the aftermarket needles have different tapers than the honda needles, which will affect your fuel delivery.  You will, however, want to inspect them, but it is really a pain in the ass on these carbs.  Working from memory, you first take off the cap held on by two screws.  Make sure your either save or replace the gasket.  Then you'll see a shaft with a bolt in it a little off center with a lock tab.  Carefully flatten the tab with a tiny flathead screwdriver or needlenose pliers, and take off that bolt.  That will enable you gently to lift up the slide (with the help of a screwdriver or similar tool) to access a second, smaller bolt, also guarded by a lock tab.  Again, flatten the tab and undo the bolt.  At this point, you'll find that the slide can be removed by putting some downward pressure on it while lifting the arm up and to the side a bit.  Be careful here because there are some tiny little "shunts" (don't know what else to call these little rods with concave ends) which are spring loaded and hold the arm within the slide.

Once you separate the slide from the throttle arm, you can pull it straight out.  Now take a look at the needle.  If you need to take it out, you will need to get a small screwdriver to remove two tiny screws inside the slide that hold the needle in place.  I would recommend hitting these with a little PB blaster and letting it soak a few minutes, as they can be hard to remove at first, and the heads are SUPER soft and easy to strip.

Reassemble in reverse order, and take care not to loose those tiny bits inside the thingy that attaches to the other thingy (I'm writing this out by memory, so give me a break!)

Offline Kevin400F

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2010, 12:51:12 PM »
Also, keep in mind the slide needles are adjustable, with multiple grooves into which the clip can be inserted.  You can significantly alter performance be raising or lowering the needles via the clip position in the available grooves.

That being said.....your initial post mentioned a leak.  Has the leak been identified?  Float needle & seat can cause a leak......slide needles cannot.  You aren't confusing your "needles", are you?

Kevin

Offline jessezm

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2010, 01:11:54 PM »
That being said.....your initial post mentioned a leak.  Has the leak been identified?  Float needle & seat can cause a leak......slide needles cannot.  You aren't confusing your "needles", are you?
Kevin

My thoughts exactly.  I was thinking that maybe he had the needles that came with the rebuild kits and figured he'd replace them too, but that that was separate from the leaking fuel issue, which is most likely the float needle and seat as you said.

Thumper, if your bike was running well besides the fuel leak before taking off the carbs, I might just leave the slides and needles alone for now.  Although now that I think about it, since your carbs are apart you should also take out out and clean the emulsifier tubes, and you do have to take the slides out to get to these easily.  This is the tube that the slide needle fits into inside the carb body.  It is pressed into place and comes out pretty easily by taping on it from the top of the carbs once you take the slides out.  Use either a small metal punch or even a small phillips screwdriver a little wider than the ID of the tube.  Don't hit it hard like this, though, as you don't want to mar the tube.  When it's out, make sure all the tiny holes along the sides are clear and clean, and clean out the hole that it came out of as well, then tap back into place.

Offline thumper

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Re: 400/4 Carbs
« Reply #10 on: July 07, 2012, 04:58:22 AM »
  Sorry for being so long in giving feedback. Thanks to everyone who replied I took all suggested steps and Bike now running fine. I am thinking of taking engine iut over winter for rebuild.I want to replace Cam chain and assosciated parts.