Topic: Throttle Sticking when bike is turned to the right Question.

[72_350_FOUR]

Hi Guys, after rebuilding ,my carbs and getting them back on, my throttle cable seems really tight when the bike is turned to the right. When straight or turned left the throttle almost snaps back...  I have messed around with the adjustments, watched a couple you tube videos, and searched here but haven't found a good source of "how to" on the throttle cables.  Is there a good thread anyone can recommend that takes you through the adjustment process from start to finish.   I have a 350F so it has the screw up by the brake lever, which tightens/loosens the action.   I've also greased the cables the best i could, i hope this was the right thing to do, i haven't used a lot because i didn't know, just enough to get them moving better. any suggestions ?

[madScientist]

If the cable is getting tight when you turn the bars to the right I would inspect your cable routing. The cable should not get tight.

[MCRider]

Hi Guys, after rebuilding ,my carbs and getting them back on, my throttle cable seems really tight when the bike is turned to the right. When straight or turned left the throttle almost snaps back...  I have messed around with the adjustments, watched a couple you tube videos, and searched here but haven't found a good source of "how to" on the throttle cables.  Is there a good thread anyone can recommend that takes you through the adjustment process from start to finish.   I have a 350F so it has the screw up by the brake lever, which tightens/loosens the action.   I've also greased the cables the best i could, i hope this was the right thing to do, i haven't used a lot because i didn't know, just enough to get them moving better. any suggestions ?

There should also be an adjuster on the A cable at the bell crank. Loosen it up too.

"Almost" snaps back is not good enough. It should absolutely snap back from all positions.

[flybox1]

+1 to both ^
adjust your cable routing to get quick snap back in all bar positions.

[72_350_FOUR]

OK will do.  "A" cable meaning the top cable ?  And the adjuster you are referring to is not the screw you can turn in and out under the brake lever ?

[MCRider]

Did it snap back from all positions before you worked on the carbs?

Often the cables will corrode on the inside just from sitting, or lack of use, and condensation. No amount of lubrication will help. They feel fine when you work them without a load. Put a load on them and they hang up.

Only fix in that case is a new cable.

[flybox1]

'A' cable is the top.  B is the return.
that 'adjuster' knob is sort of a cruise control/throttle lock.  it will make the throttle 'sticky' in all positions taking strain off your hand for longer rides.  It will effect snap back in ALL bar and throttle positions. turn it out so there is no resistance turning the throttle.

[MCRider]

OK will do.  "A" cable meaning the top cable ?  And the adjuster you are referring to is not the screw you can turn in and out under the brake lever ?

Correct, also known as the "pull" cable, but i resist using that term for personal reasons.

And yes again. There is the adjuster at the throttle end, but also at the carb end. If it is too tight it will act to pull on the cable at the extremes. In your case the full right lock.

[72_350_FOUR]

Appreciate the help...

[72_350_FOUR]

Forgot to mention, It worked about the same before i worked on the carbs. Excpet for the right turn binding.  It never really snapped back like i thought it should.  I will see what i can do and replace if necessary.

[flybox1]

return spring for the 350 is pretty beefy. 
slides should snap down like finger guillotines

[MCRider]

There should be 2 nuts on the adjuster at the bell crank. They go one on either side of the bracket and tighten down on the bracket. That sets the adjuster from moving and holds the carb end of the cable housing still.

Some people put them both on the upside of the bracket, makes it too tight.

[72_350_FOUR]

Thanks MCRider i noticed that, on the B cable there is a bell shaped nut. I have that on the upside of that cable, is that correct ?  I couldnt find detailed drawings anywhere, and no i didnt take a pic of it, but im not sure it was right anyways, the PO did some jacked up stuff.

[MCRider]

Thanks MCRider i noticed that, on the B cable there is a bell shaped nut. I have that on the upside of that cable, is that correct ?  I couldnt find detailed drawings anywhere, and no i didnt take a pic of it, but im not sure it was right anyways, the PO did some jacked up stuff.

Not familiar with the 350 specifically. On the CB750, the B cable has just one 6mm regular shaped nut used to clamp the end of the B cable housing into the bracket. No adjuster.

What i would do while working on the A cable, is disconnect the B cable entirely from the carbs. Get the A cable working properly, then reconnect the B. There should be no difference. The B cable does nothing except go along for the ride. If the B cable affects the A cable operation, there is something wrong.

Unless the A cable hangs up or the return spring fails. Then the B cable will positively draw the carbs closed.