Topic: Tips to extend wiring harness/battery wires behind the seat on 76 550 K ?

[CapeCafe]

Hi all- I've decided to clean up the look on my 550 build and relocate the electronics and battery behind the seat.  I've been able to find lots of information and pictures on various mounting options members have posted, but can't seem to find any tip/tricks on extending the stock wiring harness and battery cables so it reaches behind the seat.  It seems that it may be as simple as snip, add wire, solder and cover, but I'd appreciate any tips from anyone who has relocated their electronics behind the seat.  As always, thanks in advance for your advice.

[adamlwvdc36]

you are right on with your instincts.  cut the wires, add wire by soldering in more wire, shrink tube the connections and never think about it again.  as far as the battery cables...  one goes to  ground on the right side of the engine the other goes to the starter solenoid (relay)  go to a hardware store, buy the appropriate wire and crimp connections, and make these cables.

[Dimitri13]

If I were you, I'd use completely new wire. First off, it would look cleaner. Secondly, you'd know the current state of all your wiring and harness (brand new and properly done).

[Sniper X]

There is a reason they never solder on vehicles when it is wire to wire. They use crimp connections because solder in a wire to wire connection can get brittle over the years. I agree with the last comment to completely replace the wires. I am not sure where they connect on that bike but most have a ring on both ends to connect them so that would be easy to re-make.

[Really?]

VintageConnections.com and wire in between so you don't cut the wires?  Just plug em in?

I think he is a member here, not sure.

[Dimitri13]

Oh and about the battery wires, I believe I read on here about having to use larger gauge wire if you're making them longer. Someone will have to clarify, as I'm no electrician.

[Really?]

Going from 6ga to 4ga on my Venture made a nice huge difference.  Well, so the the Odyssey PC680MJ at the same time.  The thing will crank for a loooong time.

[the technological J]

instead of cutting them why not just add an extension with a m/f bullet connector so it could go back to stock if need be?

[JimJamerino]

I'd go with new wire.  The problems with connections, even soldered ones, are more of a headache than it's worth, I think.  Since you're only extending the wires by a foot or so, I don't think you'd need to go 4ga., but it wouldn't hurt.

instead of cutting them why not just add an extension with a m/f bullet connector so it could go back to stock if need be?

Bullet connectors on battery cables is a bad idea.  You need all the juice you can get when starting, and terminals create resistance.  Also, I don't think it would be economically viable to buy bullet connectors for a battery cable, if they're even made.  The closest I can think of would be welding cable connectors. 

It would be just as easy to make new cables and hang on to the old ones.  I had a local battery shop make some for me- told the guy the length and gauge I needed, and he made them in less than 15 minutes, less than $20 for wire, terminals, heat-shrinked and color-coded.

[Accolay]

Bullet connectors on battery cables is a bad idea.  You need all the juice you can get when starting, and terminals create resistance.  Also, I don't think it would be economically viable to buy bullet connectors for a battery cable, if they're even made.  The closest I can think of would be welding cable connectors. 

Can you even get bullet connectors in the correct guage for battery-sized wire? If you wanted to do that, there are large connectors made that can handle the job. As long as the contacts are clean and add a little dielectric grease, I think resistance would be negligible.

As far as extending the harness, I'd say make jumpers with the bullets, because I agree that you never know if you'll want to switch things back, and it'd be a heck of a lot easier if you make extensions instead of cutting things.

[aperry]

On the 750, the cable (to solenoid) is not easily removable from the starter motor.  I don't know about the 550 but it may be worth taking a look before you buy expensive large gauge wire.  When I do this, I will probably use the stock solenoid/starter cable, and get a longer solenoid/battery cable (requiring solenoid to be close to starter, but it's pretty small).

[Eddie]

Soldering, if done properly, will last forever. True, car companies dont do it because its not cost effective. I re-wired my 56 truck and soldered many connections...5 years not one problem. You must have a good soldering station like a Haako. Crimping connectors is good too but you have to have the right tool, not the cheap one you get at Harbour freight. The problems you run into are it's either not crimped enough or too much. If you crimp, get the connectors that have the sealant in them.

[the technological J]

if you move all the electronics (including the seliniod) you shouldnt have to change the battery jumper... but if need be im pretty sure you can buy whatever size you need at an auto parts store pretty cheap

[CapeCafe]

Thanks fro all the advice.  It really does seem like a simple process and the original wiring harness seems to be in good shape.  Since I have challenged myself to use as much of the original bike as I can for the look and ride I want, I'm going to simply decide which wires need to be longer when I go to re-install the harness and make it happen.  I appreciate the advice on larger guage battery cables.  On the topic of batteries, what would you recommend I use since I'm putting high and behind the seat; somthing sealed and small seems ideal ?