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Lessons learned from dual disc setup

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Rookster:
+1 on removing the springs and screws.  You don't need them.  The piston sets its own level based on the thickness of the disk and the thickness of the stationary pad.

Scott

70CB750:
Banjo never failed me - unlike steel of SS lines and associated adapters. And due to the size of banjo bolt you are always able to take it out - unlike old fittings.

I run the brakes without springs for testing but couldnt find any reference about taking them out completely - I use them now.

MCRider:
I hear the idea of leaving the adjusters off. First hand experience as to why not.

I'd left mine unadjusted, with a lot of play, maybe 1/4" or more. Like leaving it off. After an extended period of not using the brake I went for a handful and it wasn't there. Instinct had me pump it a couple of times and I got it back.

What happened was the A pad, unimpeded by the adjuster had moved into the caliper a fair bit/ From being joslted on the road bouncing and such. THen when I went to use it, I had to pump it to get the A pad back to where it belongs.

Go without it at your own peril.

Pecantree:
754..
Curious why you don't use banjo, did you have one fail?

Steve

754:
 Dont like the looks of a 90  degree or angled turn, not that clean looking, and more parts.. wish I had a closeup shot of my old line I made in79 or so.. straight out the master, thru the steering stem to a T.. 2 45degree fittings off the tee, then gracefully arcing lines straight into the finned caliper, via the caliper to line adapter.
 I must say this does not work as well with a 550 or late 750 smooth caliper, as the outlet is angled..

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