Did you get #2 firing ok ?
You originally stated that the bike starts and revs fine, but won't idle below 2000rpm...........Is that still the situation ?
People have asked about plug condition etc and you haven't provided much feedback.......
It won't make a lot of sense changing from the present set-up/specs until you can successfully start, warm idle and run the engine without basic tuning faults/ problems...
So let me preface this by saying "thank you guys for baring with me on this." This is my first time tuning a bike to this extent and I am still learning all the variables and ways to check symptoms. I'll try to be more thorough with my posts so you have all the critical details. Below, I answered your questions in order you asked them.
1. Cylinder #2 stopped firing after I started making mixture adjustments, specifically after I sprayed carb cleaner through the idle passages to make sure they were clear. Last time i started it up, #2 still wasn't firing, properly, i.e. #2 header was warm but not hot.
2. The last time I started the bike, with new electronic ignition, it ran pretty much the same as before. Started up stronger...but it immediately struggled at idle (wanted to die but I kept it alive with the throttle) and revved ok after about a minute. Mix screws 1 1/4 turns out.
3. After that, I pulled the plugs and all 4 are very BLACK. Running rich, its seems. Which is not what I was expecting.
4. So when I first started this thread, I was still very unconfident in going in as deep as I have now. Once I started getting into the carbs by inspecting passages and adjusting mixture, I realized that the carbs I thought had been thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt (by someone else) had blocked idle mixtures passages. So this changes the game for me. After that, I can not be confident the carbs are functioning properly. This is the reason I decided to build a spare set MYSELF and will eventually replace the current carbs with this set that I can verify as clean, rebuilt and properly set up.
