Topic: CB750K0 resto begins... with questions of course

[camelman]

Okay, I've decided I'm going to restore the K0 and ride it a few times before I sell it.  I'm not doing a full restore, just enough to get it looking good and to ride it.  The top items on the list are the following:

1) replace front and rear wheels either as complete units from another bike, or even model year, or just the rims and spokes (the rims and spokes are garbage)
2) replace the seat (and keep the original) with any other seat that fits.  I'm not interested in buying a new or repro duck tail seat, but I do want a seat to...well... sit on.  The original seat is shot with tears in the cover and degraded foam.
3) Pull the two dents out of the tank and possibly paint and prep the minor amount of rust where the dents were the worst.  Supposedly, the dent experts in town can remove the dents by accessing the tank from the inside with specialty tools.  That way I only have to sand off the rust where paint chipped away and spot paint (which I'm actually pretty good at).  If I spot paint, then I'll go to a local paint shop to get the correct and original paint... and possibly match to the slightly faded paint!
4) glue on a broken piece from the top airbox cover and fashion a replacement piece for the small chip that is missing using 2-part epoxy (it mixes like putty).  Then, paint it with the paint I get from my local paint shop.
5) polish the engine cases and wheel hubs
6) paint the upper triple tree black (VW black is a very close match)
7) replace the throttle tube and handlebar grips since they are shot
install the correct carb set that I recently bought (this is actually the least likely of the entire list)
9) new drive chain and probably sprockets.
10) replace the leaking oil pucks, and possibly the head gasket (can I do this in the frame, and do I need to buy any special parts?)

There are rust spots on the front and rear fenders that lifted some of the chrome.  I removed the rust, but the spots remain.  Definitely worse on the front than the rear, but I figure I'll leave them to keep it factory original rather than buy new parts.  The original exhaust should clean up well without any serious rust, and all else is there.

Does anyone see any major red flags with my plan?  Any suggestions on how to do it without breaking the bank?  Any good lessons learned for a newbie to 750s?  I'm not going for a full restore here.  I just want it to look nice and run well.

Thanks,
Camelman (aka newbie to the 750 phenomenon)

[Brantley]

1) There's supposed to be a difference in the early rims from the later. I really can't see it (I have two, and have had other later K's). If you swap the entire wheels, swap the disc; there IS a visible difference.
2)The K0 seat pan is narrower than the later ones (K1 might be, too, but will be a direct replacement regardless due to the seat latch). Pretty sure any right hand hinged K seat will fit if you replace the catch on the frame with the keyed type. I KNOW they fit if you don't install a catch.
4) Plastic Weld from Ace holds up well in the airbox...
6) Duplicolor semi-gloss engine enamel and Eastwood chassis black (85% gloss) match well, too.
7) If you are using the OG carbs, CB350 twin throttle tubes will work.
10) Gotta pull the mill. Get the 70-73 Vesrah top end kit. Gotta buy the pucks separately, but comes with the proper o-rings for the oil jets. Use thread sealer on the 6mm bolts that thread into the head thru the rocker towers. Those can leak like the pucks.

[dhall57]

SELL IT Why Camelman? You've got a 70 750KO other than the sandcast it's the most sought after 750 out there. Hold on to it, you might not ever find another one. Give the one you got some TLC and fix and replace only what's needed for now so it will be a safe and reliable everyday rider and get it out on the road and enjoy it. That's what I'm doing with my KO Besides purchase $$ I think it took another $1000 to $1200 to get my KO street ready.

Why do you think your going to have to pull the engine and fix all the oil leaks when you haven't even got it on the road yet
                                                   * If it ain't broke don't fix it *

[Terry in Australia]

The 1970 K0 is the least desireable of the K0's, the very first sandcasts are the most desireable, then the later sandcasts, then the 1969 diecasts, and finally the 1970 diecasts. Regardless, they're a great bike and I loved mine, and will love my current one when I finally amass all the parts I need to assemble it.

The wheels are unique to the K0, the hubs are different to all later K's, as are the rims and front disc, axle etc so if yours aren't good enough to leave on the bike, keep them and offer them with the bike when you sell it, as it's important to a collector/restorer to have the correct parts, and you will not make as much money if you throw them away.

You don't need to install the correct carbs and airbox, as long as you've got them to go with the bike. As mentioned before K0 parts are highly sought after and expensive, so keep them and offer them with the bike when you sell it.

Honestly, I wouldn't spend any money on it at all, I'd just sell it as is with the correct carbs etc, it's likely that the buyer will undo all your hard work anyway, when he restores it. You could always part it out, (sounds sad, but one donor bike can put many others back on the road) but if you don't have a title, you probably won't get a heap of cash for your engine and frame.

I bought a pile of K0 parts on ebay from one seller, he said made some really good money on all the unique K0 parts, but couldn't unload the frame and engine. Cheers, Terry.    

[dhall57]

Thanks for the history lesson on the 69-70 KO sandcast and diecast models Terry. Now since I know mine is the least desireable of the bunch maybe I'll put mine up for sell with Camel's Ha ha don't think so. Mines a keeper

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks for the history lesson on the 69-70 KO sandcast and diecast models Terry. Now since I know mine is the least desireable of the bunch maybe I'll put mine up for sell with Camel's Ha ha don't think so. Mines a keeper

Sorry mate, I certainly didn't mean to insult anyone, I loved my 2/70 K0, but it's a fact that the earlier it is, the more valuable, hence the most desireable. Cheers, Terry.

[camelman]

Brantley and Terry, that's exactly the info I was looking for!!!! 

Terry, mine's a 10/69 and it is also original except for the carbs.  I intend on keeping it as stock as possible, and will keep the original parts to sell with the completed bike, whenever I sell it. I might even restore the original wheels.  We'll see.

I want to rebuild the top end due to the obvious oil leak around the head gasket area. I will probably run it before pulling the engine, but expect it will need some work.

Dhall, I might end up keeping it when I'm done.  My garage was getting so packed that I just wanted to open up some space.  However, I'm having trouble justifying selling it since I don't need the money right now and will likely move to a larger space within the year.  Oh decisions!

[Brantley]

However, I'm having trouble justifying selling it since I don't need the money right now and will likely move to a larger space within the year.  Oh decisions!

Well, get on it, man! Moving motorcycles to new digs is only fun if it's of their own volition!

[lucky]

BTW....
I only saw two questions.
QUOTE:
"Does anyone see any major red flags with my plan?  Any suggestions on how to do it without breaking the bank?" 

1. Yes.
2. No

When you take apart the motorcycle take it all apart and take the engine out last by laying the frame and engine on its side on a thick blanket and just lift the frame off of the engine. Make it easy on yourself.

Too many times I have seen people lift the engine out of the frame THEN take the wheels and swing arm and front forks off.

Any steel part taken off of the motorcycle needs a visual inspection to look for cracks.
Then put every steel part in phosphoric acid overnight and then the next day if it is all clean rinse it with water and spray with WD40 unless you are going to paint it.
You need to paint it with in 4 hours after the corrosion treatment.
That stops the rusting.


Talking about every single thing you would like to do to the motorcycle is a waste of time. We would like to see what you actually do and how you do it.
It is your actions that count not your plans.

You say you want it to look nice and run well but you do not want to spend much. That is NOT POSSIBLE!!!

It costs what it costs.

Just take your time and start the restoration process.
You can do a little at a time while earning money to buy the parts you want.
You can spend some time on this forum while you are waiting to make sure to get the right parts.

If you want it to look good and run well there is ONLY one way. The right way.
You WILL have to make a sacrifice. This is not a MATRIX deal where "we can do this " has ANY meaning. It is YOU that will do it and make it look nice and run well.

Are you that person?
Buck up Bucky!

LOL....lol..lol

[camelman]

Brantley... agreed!

Damn, Lucky.  I don't every want to be interrogated by you!!!  I started sweating just reading your post!!!

Yep, I'm the guy to do this right.  I put together my list to get input on how to do it correctly so I could get some input.  I'm not going to rush it either since I have a social life to kick back up now that I'm single again.  Sadly... or not... girls trump working on motorcycles.  Okay, that's not a correct statement.  Girls "sometimes" trump working on motorcycles!  ;-)  Now, if I have to go to all that trouble just to remove the engine, then I suppose I should repaint the frame too since some of the paint has been replaced by rust.  Man, this is turning into a real project!  I'll be starting a build thread in the projects section in a month or two.  Gotta clear room in the garage first!

It would be nice if I had a garage with electrcity.

[lucky]

Brantley... agreed!

Damn, Lucky.  I don't every want to be interrogated by you!!!  I started sweating just reading your post!!!

Yep, I'm the guy to do this right.  I put together my list to get input on how to do it correctly so I could get some input.  I'm not going to rush it either since I have a social life to kick back up now that I'm single again.  Sadly... or not... girls trump working on motorcycles.  Okay, that's not a correct statement.  Girls "sometimes" trump working on motorcycles!  ;-)  Now, if I have to go to all that trouble just to remove the engine, then I suppose I should repaint the frame too since some of the paint has been replaced by rust.  Man, this is turning into a real project!  I'll be starting a build thread in the projects section in a month or two.  Gotta clear room in the garage first!

It would be nice if I had a garage with electrcity.

Clean the garage first ...Good move Camelman.

Do you have a work bench?
You can just make one out of 2x4s.

I got plans off of the internet free. and I am still using it 5 years later.
I usually just build it my own way, but when I saw the free plans i though why not!

But the work bench only needs to stick out from the wall about 30 inches.

About the lights.
Are there any windows?

A skylight can really let in a lot of light if you have the skills to do it.
Also those kerosene lamps really work good and they provide heat too!
Just watch your flammables.

If it has a dirt floor cover it with old car oil so you do not breath dust.
You can easily build a wood floor or platform to work on.
Even just a 4x8 platform for the bike to sit on when you start putting it together.

Many people get held back in life because they think they cannot do something until they have the RIGHT situation.

I learned that you do not need that by reading books. I learned that some of the greatest sculpture ,motorcycles, inventions,etc., were done in so old barn or garage.

[lone*X]

No lights in the garage?  How about this?  http://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/gas-engine-generators/800-rated-watts-900-max-watts-portable-generator-66619.html
Watch the retail flyers and they run this one on sale for under $100 every once in a while.  I have an older one from them that I use for night fishing lights.  Just enough to run you a work light, a fan, and your power tools (you can only use one at at time anyway).  Set it outside the door and you barely can hear it.

[Brantley]

cm- I'm glad you amended that statement to "sometimes". Here's hoping you find a chick who's idea of a good time is a bottle of wine and helping lift a heavy engine out of a motorcycle frame... Paint the frame? Sounds like you're headed to the whole shebang darkside. I might touch up said spots first while gettin the other stuff you listed looking decent and working well as long as the frame has no soft spots. Get a good look at and use the hammer and punch method on the cross tube that the center stand mounts are welded to while the engine is out. Judging from feedback in an old post K0's can have a tendency to rot here, rendering the center stand useless. And that K0 in my avatar was housed and maintained in the grey, ramped, 12x12, shed behind it for six years. Built two bikes and worked on every friend's old Honda in it with a 12 gauge drop cord run from the house, a power strip, and two florescent shop lights.