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Rule #1: if the bike burns oil, fix that first. Otherwise, the uneven compression between the cylinders will defy all attempts to make a smooth-pulling engine.Rule #2: Millions of miles with the stock pilot jets can't be wrong. Leave those stock. You can adjust the air screw to accommodate 40% change richer (out 1/2 turn from stock setting) or leaner (1/2 turn in from stock setting). If you need to go further than this with a stock cam, see rule #1.Rule #3: The clips on the needles adjust the mixture about 1% of the mainjet per notch, richer or leaner. Moving the needle upward makes it richer. Open velocity stacks will usually require a richer mainjet (about 5%) and the idle air screw be turned outward about 1/8 to 1/4 turn from stock settings. Be sure to provide dead air to those stacks above 30 MPH, as the turbulence of the air around your legs will strongly affect the airflow into the outer 2 carbs, causing them to act strangely. In other words, build a still-air box around the openings of those stacks for best results.Or, just use the stock airbox, which does all this for you...
HM: #1: It burns oil, but I've wet and dry compression tested and all the cylinders are within 10% of each other. I know I should be fixing it, but I'm saving up for a full rebuild (being unemployed sucks).
So it's basically the carbs themselves that don't like the turbulent air? Switching to different carbs, say CR29s or RS34s would remedy that? (Obviously going with a more aggressive cam or big bore to go with that)
NO NO NO! Your all wrong! All you need is a big bore kit. It will solve all your problems. More displacement, 10.5 to 1 compression, It will solve ALL your problems!OK not really, but I'm dying to hear how one works (big bore kit) and I can't afford to get one so next best thing is talk someone else into it (BMFG)
