Author Topic: Candy Gold K1 750, Update 10/28/12 Completed for now (Read 15331 times)

Stev-o · « **Reply #50 on:** August 25, 2012, 12:28:33 PM »

+1 WD40 or Simple Green, I don't like to use water. C'mon man, get that thing clean!

Johnie · « **Reply #51 on:** August 25, 2012, 01:21:10 PM »

Once you get her clean take some Penetrol to the frame. You will be surprised at how it conditions the paint.

Tews19 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 26, 2012, 07:49:35 AM »

Quote from: Johnie on August 25, 2012, 01:21:10 PM

Once you get her clean take some Penetrol to the frame. You will be surprised at how it conditions the paint.

Johnie, will that help the rust? If I can manage to remove most of the rust I won't be taking her down.

Tews19 · « **Reply #53 on:** August 26, 2012, 07:56:18 AM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on August 25, 2012, 12:08:44 PM

note those chewed up rear sprocket studs/nuts...that bike definately threw a chain....on cleaning, wd40 works great as a light degreaser, I would just clean stuff up as best you can, disassemble stuff if you can't get your fingers in there, I don't see any reason to powdercoat that frame yet, but yeah, you gotta get it clean

At least with this thrown chain isssue I didn't come home to a cracked case surprise. I looked that thing over in the middle of the night pick up. I am still very pleased with the purchase.

Quote from: Stev-o on August 25, 2012, 11:33:44 AM

Yes, engine VIN appears to be stamped, probably broken case.

Id use the better tubes.

On the 6th pic above, is that dirt on the rear wheel area and muffler? If that's rust, needs paint or PC.

If I use the better tubes I will have to take apart the front end of my silver K1. Time is limited today so I will have to hold off on that. Hopefully I can get the tires mounted by Tuesday.... If I can get my tires mounted I am thinking I will swap out my carbs and see if she runs.... One of the last bikes nights is Wednesday

Johnie · « **Reply #54 on:** August 26, 2012, 09:01:43 AM »

Penetrol will just condition the paint. I really have not had much rust to try it out on here. Sure seems to make the black frame paint look much richer.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #55 on:** August 26, 2012, 09:08:27 AM »

Road rash on a rim may just be garage floor rash from the PO doing a tire change himself on concrete rather than say a piece of carpet or cardboard at the least. I've witnessed this firsthand

And by all means replace those fork tubes.

I used Penetrol on my nasty plastic black rear stash box and inner fender on my F. MUCH better. 2 or 3 applications and it brought the color and shine back. Let it soak in good then rewipe.

Tews19 · « **Reply #56 on:** August 26, 2012, 09:30:10 AM »

Thanks Jerry and Johnie...

I'm thinking I will swap out the Forking by Franks tubes and the rest of the front end I rebuilt on my silver K1 to the gold one. The Silver k1 I was planning to have the frame corrected so might as well start, right??

Stev-o · « **Reply #57 on:** August 26, 2012, 11:55:20 AM »

What's wrong with your fuel tank?

Tews19 · « **Reply #58 on:** August 26, 2012, 12:20:07 PM »

Nothing wrong with the tank. There is a few little dings here an there but the tank is nice. I'm looking for a spare for my silver K1 plus to feed my hoarding disorder since I sold some stuff.

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 30, 2012, 05:07:55 AM »

Great looking bike. I wish my engine parts were as clean as yours. Anybody know of an easier way of removing discoloration on the head cover etc.....Gary

Tews19 · « **Reply #60 on:** August 30, 2012, 06:16:12 AM »

If you are looking to make things bling Gary, my method is using a fine brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. Then 3 different polishing bars. Comes out like new. But everything has got to be clean and each compound needs it's own wheel. Another way you can strip the factory coating is to use aircraft stripper. Guys here like that better then the wheel as less scratching.

Johnie · « **Reply #61 on:** August 30, 2012, 10:34:45 AM »

Man, you doing it by hand. Here is what I do and I am happy with my results...
My first tip is get a good buffing wheel. I have a 6 inch Craftsman bench buffer with 6 inch cotton buffing wheels. You need to get the alumimun hot to let it flow when you are buffing and a drill will not generate that much heat as the RPM's will not compare to the bench buffer. That being said, if you want to use a drill you may get some nice results but not as good as a bench buffer. The first thing you should do is use a chemical stripper to remove the clear. The red rouge will take it off, but it does take a while. It is much easier if you let the stripper get it off for you. But go ahead and experiment with it. The red rouge is a rougher system which will cut faster and deeper. The green rouge will take out the marks from the red. The white will take out the finer marks from the green and give you a nice look. When done some guys clear it, but I never clear as I want to be able to touch it up whenever I feel like it. However, I have never had to touch it up with the wheel. I just use Semichrome or MAAS polish to make it look great again. A caution for you, use safety glasses and a dust mask as it is dirty work. If you get a bench buffer you will also need thick gloves as the parts get hot. Take your time and let the rouge do the work. And use one color rouge per wheel. Do not use the red wheel with green rouge. You do not want to cross contaminate the buffing wheels. I use a Magic Marker to put the color on each buffing wheel so I can use it again and not have to guess which color the buffing wheel is for.

Tews19 · « **Reply #62 on:** August 30, 2012, 10:44:10 AM »

Quote from: Johnie on August 30, 2012, 10:34:45 AM

Man, you doing it by hand. Here is what I do and I am happy with my results...
My first tip is get a good buffing wheel. I have a 6 inch Craftsman bench buffer with 6 inch cotton buffing wheels. You need to get the alumimun hot to let it flow when you are buffing and a drill will not generate that much heat as the RPM's will not compare to the bench buffer. That being said, if you want to use a drill you may get some nice results but not as good as a bench buffer. The first thing you should do is use a chemical stripper to remove the clear. The red rouge will take it off, but it does take a while. It is much easier if you let the stripper get it off for you. But go ahead and experiment with it. The red rouge is a rougher system which will cut faster and deeper. The green rouge will take out the marks from the red. The white will take out the finer marks from the green and give you a nice look. When done some guys clear it, but I never clear as I want to be able to touch it up whenever I feel like it. However, I have never had to touch it up with the wheel. I just use Semichrome or MAAS polish to make it look great again. A caution for you, use safety glasses and a dust mask as it is dirty work. If you get a bench buffer you will also need thick gloves as the parts get hot. Take your time and let the rouge do the work. And use one color rouge per wheel. Do not use the red wheel with green rouge. You do not want to cross contaminate the buffing wheels. I use a Magic Marker to put the color on each buffing wheel so I can use it again and not have to guess which color the buffing wheel is for.

Thanks for the explanantion Johnie.. I used your method and couldn't remember the names of the polishing bars I picked up..

754 · « **Reply #63 on:** August 30, 2012, 11:04:16 AM »

try 000 steel wool on the rust, then get that off, then FLITZ the frame.. you wont believe the result..

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #64 on:** August 30, 2012, 12:53:11 PM »

Quote from: Tews19 on August 30, 2012, 10:44:10 AM

Quote from: Johnie on August 30, 2012, 10:34:45 AM
Man, you doing it by hand. Here is what I do and I am happy with my results...
My first tip is get a good buffing wheel. I have a 6 inch Craftsman bench buffer with 6 inch cotton buffing wheels. You need to get the alumimun hot to let it flow when you are buffing and a drill will not generate that much heat as the RPM's will not compare to the bench buffer. That being said, if you want to use a drill you may get some nice results but not as good as a bench buffer. The first thing you should do is use a chemical stripper to remove the clear. The red rouge will take it off, but it does take a while. It is much easier if you let the stripper get it off for you. But go ahead and experiment with it. The red rouge is a rougher system which will cut faster and deeper. The green rouge will take out the marks from the red. The white will take out the finer marks from the green and give you a nice look. When done some guys clear it, but I never clear as I want to be able to touch it up whenever I feel like it. However, I have never had to touch it up with the wheel. I just use Semichrome or MAAS polish to make it look great again. A caution for you, use safety glasses and a dust mask as it is dirty work. If you get a bench buffer you will also need thick gloves as the parts get hot. Take your time and let the rouge do the work. And use one color rouge per wheel. Do not use the red wheel with green rouge. You do not want to cross contaminate the buffing wheels. I use a Magic Marker to put the color on each buffing wheel so I can use it again and not have to guess which color the buffing wheel is for.

Thanks for the explanantion Johnie.. I used your method and couldn't remember the names of the polishing bars I picked up..

Thanks for advice Johnie that sounds a lot easier than what I have been doing. I understand that rouge is a buffing compound. But what brand name and where can I find it ? I do have a bench grinder that turns about 3250 rpm I`ll to to find the the 6 inch cotton buffing wheels. How do you clean between the cylinder and head cooling fins? Thanks for the help.......Gary

Johnie · « **Reply #65 on:** August 30, 2012, 02:12:59 PM »

You can get the rouge and cotton wheels at Sears and other stores. You do not buff the cooling fins. That is all paint. If those are bad you would need to repaint that area. The valve cover you could to the same way. I have never had a valve cover off so I just get what I can with the wheel and the gas tank covers the rest. My wheel develops 3450 RPM and 1HP which is plenty.

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #66 on:** August 31, 2012, 07:06:04 AM »

Thanks Johnie ........it off to sears I go..........Gary

Tews19 · « **Reply #67 on:** September 07, 2012, 06:13:33 PM »

Well today was Tewsmas! Got another 550 and my new sprockets for Goldie! The night got even better when my buddy called to let me know my parts are finished at the powder coater!

If you look closely at the swing arm you will see chain teeth marks! There was definitely a thrown chain at one time.
Very pleased as I didnt want some parts nice and glossy others looking aged.

On the swing arm, the pivot bushing things where the shocks mount was removed. He didn't do that to my 550 swing arm. Is this ruined?

Assembly to begin!

Tews19 · « **Reply #68 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:34:48 PM »

Finished the forks, installed and now I am waiting for the rear swing arm to get back. PC for some reason removed the bushings that hold the rear shocks on the swing arm...... Very pleased how the forks came out... Thanks again Johnie for the method... Fine brass wheel to strip the factory coating off the forks was a pain.

Tews19 · « **Reply #69 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:39:53 PM »

Pics

Tews19 · « **Reply #70 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:43:42 PM »

More pics

Stev-o · « **Reply #71 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:48:27 PM »

Did you PC the side covers?
545 miles on the odo??
Are the guage faces cracked or just bad pic???

Tews19 · « **Reply #72 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:52:15 PM »

Side cover I got in the mail today from Franken! They are much better then the OEM ones. I am debating if I should try to make them shine or have them painted to match the tank....

Odometer is right, 545 miles. Remember i was told the miles are factual... The cases have been swapped out from a thrown chain which the PO forgot to tell me...

No cracks in gauges, bad pic.. Sorry Hopefully tomorrow I will have a roller!

Stev-o · « **Reply #73 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:57:08 PM »

Black covers from Frankie? I have 3 sets...all white.

Will be hard to get a perfect match. Been there.

Tews19 · « **Reply #74 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:59:09 PM »

yeah I ordered them I think Saturday and got them today..... #$%* thats never good if I will have a hard time matching them. Will I guess I wount be having fresh paint on the ears and tank.. Going to leave the tank and ears with patina

News:

Author Topic: Candy Gold K1 750, Update 10/28/12 Completed for now (Read 15331 times)