The main jets came out of the carbs, but the idles didn't. I believe I read they area press-fit, and I didn't want to mess with them. I didn't notice/didn't look for any number on the mains, so I don't know what size they are right now.
The press in slow jets must be removed for proper cleaning. Grab them with pliers (parallel jaw type is best, but leather pads can suffice) and pull them out for cleaning. You must see light pass through them when dry internally.
While you MAY have to increase the mains and lift the slide needles to get mixtures better suited for the filter and exhaust changes, you really need to get the carbs in best condition before a fine tuning effort, which includes ALL the routine tune up check list.
I believe the carbs are correct. The only number I saw is faint but appears to read, "41AW0I^"
They are PD41A Carbs. Stock for your bike.
I followed procedures in the Clymer manual for disassembling and reassembly. The first problem I encountered was "Idle Mixture Adjustment." No matter what I did with the pilot screws, it did not effect the RPMs (with the exception of all in/out in which case it killed the motor).
The effective adjustment range for these items is limited, as the EPA and Honda didn't want owner tampering to circumvent pollution reduction.
However, they regulate AFTER the pilot/slow/idles jets deliver. Problems upstream the source can make the screws in effective.
It sounds like I may have the wrong sized jets for my current setup, idle jets may be clogged & too small, and recheck accelerator pump?
Do recheck the accelerator pump (as well as ensure the choke plates can achieve full closure for cold starting.
Few realize how strong the accelerator pump jets must squirt (rather than dribble) and this provide 90% of the throttle twist acceleration power.
Key details are:
-- The two check valves must allow flow in one direction only. Find them and prove that liquids flow in one direction only. You don't have to take the valves apart usually, and they are hidden from direct view. But, you can use the red nozzles that come with the aerosol cans of carb cleaner to prover their function as well as clean them safely and properly.
-- The pump diaphragm has two ears, that provide a seal for the fuel channel. The holes must be the same size as the channel holes and not swelled closed. Drill them out to slightly over size and they will not restrict the flow in those channels.
-- One pump for 4 carbs means there is a distribution pipe/channel for the fuel to the individual nozzles. Some interlink pipes have orifice restrictors to make all the nozzles receive the same pressure/volume. I've actually never had to take them apart, as I've don't see much need to separate the carbs from the bank assembly. But, I do run carb cleaner under pressure into the pump's outlet channel to clean and prove that all four squirters are clear and shooting fluid equally (on the bench). Safety glasses are recommended.
Once the accelerator pump is working properly, I've experienced carbs with plugged pilot jets, will still accelerate well, even though it won't idle below 2500 RPM without cyclic twisting of the throttle.
Also, with the pump working at proper capacity, and the pilot jets clear, the pilot screws can be adjusted for peak idle RPM. But, the RPM changes are very small. You need a sensitive tach to do this properly, and the one on the bike is not that sensitive to note 50 RPM changes.
After you are damn certain the carbs are cleaned and vacuum balanced, and the rest of the tune up check list is fresh and the air filter clean as new, THEN you can start fine tuning the mains and the slide needles the achieve the light tan deposits on the spark plug tips. If you ignore the basics and jump to fine tuning early, you'll find another fine tuning effort is needed after something in the basics change later, ime.
FYI: The center spark plug has the desired porcelain tip color.
