Author Topic: Cam chain adjust spins round and round + glitter in the oil.... help? CB550 PICS  (Read 42584 times)

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Offline DustyRags

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Dave, Fritz, thanks for confirming! It sounds like I did it all right after all. It was just late, I was tired, and forgot that at some point those valves have to close. Rookie mistake  ;D

Fritz- I don't know if it's a lock or just resistance- I didn't force it. Using the nut under the points cover, the engine turned over easily (as easily as before we got the cover on), and then suddenly stopped. I suppose this might be the point where I start pushing down a valve, but at that point I was terrified of destroying a valve stem so I was being very, very gentle with it.

Frosty- The tension is not set yet (thanks for the reminder!) This might be a good time to do that... I don't think it's the chain slack ending though, since the cam is definitely moving (one of the rockers is freeing up). Edit: Unless the reason one of them is freeing up is because I'm rotating the engine enough to take the slack out of one side of the cam and that's letting the tensioner pull the chain one way, and I'm just taking the tension back out of it... that would explain why only one tappet is being freed up by my oscillations. But if the tensioner can pull the cam around, then it shouldn't feel all that tight, should it? Confused myself again.

I'm greatly heartened at this point, and my inclination is to hit this thing again and see if it'll turn past the "lock" point with gentle pressure. Then get the tappets set using Dave's method and keep building. Maybe I will get to take it for a spin this weekend!
« Last Edit: September 26, 2012, 07:12:03 AM by DustyRags »
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline bryanj

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You do not need to set the 500 at a specific point to set cam chain tension, just put a little weight on the kickstart so that all the slack is on the back run

DO NOT TRY TO TURN A TIGHT ENGINE WITH THE NUT BEHIND THE POINTS COVER

if it is tight you will shear the nut off the advancer unit and they are getting harder to find
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline becken

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Make sure the spark plugs are removed so you're not fighting compression while turning the engine.
1976 CB550F bought new
1981 CM400A wife bought new
2004 GL1800

Offline DustyRags

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Bryan- Thanks! Good info to have for the nut! It's a 550, not a 500- difference?

Becken- Plugs came out a month ago and haven't been back in since. Need to get hold of the proper tool so I don't need to keep borrowing the neighbor's :P
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline dave500

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they have the same nut assembly,its only really driving through two little lugs,never put any real pressure on it,,if you undo the centre small bolt it comes apart and youll see what it is.

Offline bryanj

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Dave said it, but holds true for all the fours
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline DustyRags

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I have a confession to make.

I don't really know how to talk about this. This isn't the person I am. This isn't the person I ever thought I'd be.

It feels like I just had a really good wank- amazing, and yet deeply ashamed.

I...

I got hard bags.

I didn't mean to! I was just clicking around Craig's List looking for some battered old softies I can throw over the seat when I need to carry my cruft, and then there they were. A post full of cheap CB parts, including a bent rack and a couple of black bags. Free to the first taker. So now I have hard bags.

And I also met a nifty dude out near my way. So I guess that makes up for it  ;D ;D ;D

Next step: figure out how to adapt the whole thing so the bags come off quick-n-easy so I'm not riding a bagger when I'm not on the road.
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline TwoTired

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Bags add sooo much utility to the bike for everyday riding.  I don' know why I didn't put some on way sooner.
Yes, I've had a tail racks to bungee things onto, and a backpack.  But, these really allow you to "get by".  Now, I use a tank bags and both soft and hard saddle bags, depending on the bike.

Bike's aren't all about looks, except at shows.  They can be quite utilitarian.  The guy that gave me the CB700SC also gave me the big soft bags he used for 70K miles.  He didn't own a car, just the bike from 1985 to 2005.  If he needed a car, he borrowed or rented one on rare occasions.  I think the bags are 5 gallon each side, about 7x10x14 inches each.  T'was an eye opener when I started using them.  They work.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline DustyRags

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Yeah I know, but I'm the sort of person who hates having stuff without a really good reason. And I REALLY hate bolting it to my vehicles. You should see my bicycle- the only thing on there that isn't legally necessary is a bottle cage, and even that's on the short list. :P I'll see if there's a way I can make them easy to add/remove, and maybe see if I can find a way to lock them. Hard bags that don't lock seem a bit pointless. I do want the luggage capability, but I also live in Oakland- if it ain't bolted down, you better figure out a way to do that before someone decides to take it.

My other concern is stability- I'm a very new rider (~20 miles lifetime total so far), and I'm concerned about adding anymore weight to an already relatively heavy bike (compared to the Nighthawk 250 I learned on anyway). Thoughts?
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline JimS63

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Dang, free CB stuff around here and I missed it....crap! LOL!

I don't particularly like the look of saddle bags/trunks on these old CB bikes, but I'm going to be buying a trunk for my bike so I can make it more of a commuter, and so I have a (secure) place for my helmet, jacket, gloves (and a few misc tools and such) when I get to where I'm going. My problem is that I need a really big trunk to hold my laptop bag and those sized trunks aren't detachable......which means that I will get to drive around all the time with a big ole ugly non-aerodynamic box on the back once I get/install it.

Maybe I can find a way to make it easily detachable...unbolt the back rack or pin it or somethinng......
1977 Honda CB750a Hondamatic

Offline DustyRags

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It was mostly 750 stuff, but let me know if you want the email. Coupla tanks, an old frame, stuff like that.

I'm thinking about how to make these detachable- I don't really care for the look, and the less to steal the better, but it would be nice to have the option. I'm thinking maybe wingnuts on the inside and carriage bolts on the outside, so they'd have to be opened to remove them.

You might be able to do a similar thing- say, some sort of bracket to keep the trunk from spinning, and then a single bolt through the bottom. Put a strip of steel with a square hole on the outside, under your rack, and a carriage bolt through that. Then a hand nut on the inside or something.
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline JimS63

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I'd love to find another tank for my bike, but the "A" tank is different. I'd love keep/store all the original parts that are on the bike now and paint the new tank and spare side covers (that I already have) black...I just think it would look better and make all the aluminum/chrome stand out better!

I'm thinking about permenently mounting the big ole trunk to my back rack, and make the rack more easily removable. Maybe cut slots in the connection points of the rack instead of holes so I can loosen the bolts and pull it out or something....
1977 Honda CB750a Hondamatic

Offline DustyRags

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So it's all back together again!

It has, as always, been a day of forwards and backs, build it and tear it apart again.

The day dawned bright and early. Three hours later, I emerged and grabbed some breakfast on my way to the shop. I eat healthy.  ::)



First, I anxiously turned it over with the kick start- no problem there, I was just too timid with the bolt on the points plate. Whew! No issue!

Then I set the tappets. Not much to this, really, you just gotta take the time for it. I was terrified of this, having heard so many horror stories, so I budgeted something like three hours for this part. Nothing to it. Fiddly, sure, but not hard as such. Got the tappets set, and wiped the tappet covers down with an oily rag. They've got numbers on them so I get them into the right place. I guess it probably doesn't matter, but was being careful. One of the covers is some sort of chromy aftermarket, and another one's had some issues that were corrected with a file, but whatever, they're just tappet covers, right?



They're supposed to be torqued to something like 5 ft-lbs, so I just threw a fat socket on a ratchet and sucked them down.

You know why they give you torque values? And warnings like "be careful not to over-torque the tappet covers"?

Here's why:



ARGH! I called Hayasa Motorbikes here in Oakland, and Tyler said he'd "probably have something that'll work." Turns out that yeah, he did have exactly what I needed. Also picked up a fuel filter and a shift lever for my brother's Nighthawk 250. Then lunch, and the crappy auto parts store to pick up oil and a deep-well 18 mm socket.

I got back to find that my brother had scored a chair at work and dropped it off at home. Figures that he'd finally get a chair in the garage on the last day of the build.

Oil, fuel filter, tappet covers, spark plug socket on the new shop chair. Burrito not pictured (already installed). My "new" hard bags are lurking in the background, dreading the day they get attacked and turned into something that will aesthetically fit the rest of the bike.



Since I already needed one tappet cover, I got a couple of extras to replace the two mis-matched ones. The one with the file marks came right out, but the chrome one gave me no end of fits. First the socket spun. Then the crescent wrench popped off. Next I tried a pair of 12 inch pliers, but they just took bites out of it like it was lead. A second pair of pliers with longer handles and shorter jaws did the same thing, but worse. The massive, foot-long, rusty, forged vice grips that probably date from the first world war just crushed it like it was putty. Finally, I took a file to it and made two nice, bit flat spots, clamped the vice grips on so hard I was afraid it was going to buckle the whole cover like a cheap taco, and turned. It came out.

Boy, was it wrecked!



But that's OK, I got some shiny new tappet covers!



The breather went on without much fuss. Some confusion about routing that tube, but I got it figured out.



Next were the spark plugs. Gapped,cleaned, installed, done. I couldn't find anything that said what coil goes to what plug, but found some notes about each coil firing in sync, so as long as you're going 1/4 and 2/3, you're OK, and that matched up with the length of the leads, so I called it good. Hope it's right!

Next, I polished up the end caps. And by "polished" I mean "scrubbed with a wire brush and some mineral spirits from the Mixed Solvents can."



There was some momentary confusion about the left/right thing with the cam end brackets, but then I spotted the tiny little R on the left one, made the obvious inference, and it all worked out alright.



Next a quick wipe down with a damp rag to get the worst of the dust off, and then the side covers back on, points cover, fuel tank, oil, fuel, fuel lines, and a scant 49 days after I started this crazy journey the old beast is standing proud again!



So there it is! A video of the first start was requested, so here you go!

http://youtu.be/a6ORKfou_Is?hd=1

Um, yeah. That didn't go so well. Wanna know why I was using the kick? Because when I hit the starter earlier to test the battery, it went "reow reow reeooow..." Apparently the battery didn't much care for being left unattended on the garage floor for most of the those 49 days (it was in the bike for a while). So now I've got it on a borrowed trickle charger, and hopefully it'll fire right up tomorrow. Will post video.

There are 8 little green seals left in the bag. I'm telling myself that they go with the bottom half of the engine (it's a whole gasket kit, not just the top end), and they're nothing to worry about. If they are something to worry about, please let me know. I'm fairly certain that we replaced all the seals we came across.



Hooked up to the trickle charger like some sort of weird life support system. Don't worry, we'll get you running tomorrow!



I do think I need to hit the side covers with some flat paint to match the back fender and the strip on on the tank. I was trying to avoid it at first, to give it some variety and not be another all-flat-black old motorcycle, but I think it'll look better then what it is now. I picked up some 1/8 inch white pinstriping tape, so I might play with that. Especially if I mount the bags, I'll probably lay some white on either side of the stripe on the tank, then do the bags (and side covers?) in flat black with matching white stripes. Should look OK, I think.

Other plans include getting the overspray from the PO sanded off the back of the shocks, clean the front fender, maybe re-mount the fender braces so I can throw luggage on there if I need to, replace the back blinkers (they're currently mismatched and it bugs the hell out of me), maybe replace the grips with something note blue (don't really want to do more black, and any color is going to look as out of place as the blue...), see about those bags, and of course new tires (still got decade-old rubber wrapped around those spokes). But first, I'd like to ride it.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2012, 12:16:13 AM by DustyRags »
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline dave500

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well done dusty,,those spare green o rings go under the valve guides,,only if the guides are replaced do you use those,,you dont press out the guides just to use those,get that battery up and lets hear it running,if it coughs and farts and wont quite start the leads might be the wrong way around,,dont keep cranking the battery flat these will fire straight up if all is correct even after being reassembled!
« Last Edit: September 30, 2012, 12:41:07 AM by dave500 »

Offline bryanj

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For a first bike you have done an amazing job, and more to the point listened to the good advice given on here.

Could be worth checking that you have the coils wired right by putting any old spark plug in either 1 or 4 cap, resting it on the head and making sure it sparks when the 1&4 mark passes the static point on the casing, worth also checking 2&3 as it wouldn't be the first time if that one of the two points wires got unplugged in the rubber boot by the rear brakelight switch!.

The "chromed" cap was probably just a polished laquered one which is what is supposed to be fitted, the dull ones are usually the C50(Step through) as they are hidden from sight---also cheaper to buy!!
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline DustyRags

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Thanks, guys! Dave, good to know about those o-rings- I can sleep soundly now. I'll check the leads if it does weird stuff. Bryan- I hadn't even thought to check to see that they were plugged in down below- I'll verify that before I kick it this morning.
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline dave500

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trace the wires from the 1/4 points and make sure they go to the coil hooked to 1/4 plugs.

Offline DustyRags

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After 50 days, 220+ non-latex gloves, a roll and a half of heavy-duty paper shop towels, countless mistakes and enough naughty words to stock a pirate ship for a year, it's done. The bike successfully roared through 27 miles of twisty, back-country mountain roads through the Oakland hills. Not bad for a $500 bike with a bad tensioner and less than $300 in parts and tools

But that's not to say that it was an easy morning.

First things first: bagels and coffee. I'm convinced that this is what kept me going.

Next, over to the shop and start the bike up. It didn't want to at first, but with some coaxing it eventually roared to life. And then died. And it did that for a bit as I got everything adjusted right, got the idle screw where it belongs, tweaked this, tweaked that, and the bike warmed up.

Then we noticed that there was still a rather unforgivable amount of rattling coming out of it. So off with the tappet covers to readjust those, and I noticed that most of them hadn't oiled up. OK, that made sense, it's a splash zone, maybe they're just making noise. No biggie, I put some oil on the tappet ends, put the covers back on, and fired it up. No difference.

So I wheeled it back in the shop, and adjusted all the tappets again. All but one of them were, in fact, out of spec. This time, I figured out that if I wiggled them as I tested the spacing, the gauges either slipped in much more easily, or clearly bound them up.

Back out, tried again. Nope, nothing. Must be the cam chain. Back in the shop.

I mucked with the tensioner for a bit, and eventually figured out that the lock nut wasn't biting down on the case at all- it was biting down on the end of the screw, where the threading ends. This prevents the lock nut from actually locking the thing, and creates a maddening scenario where you really have to crank down with a screwdriver to get it to stay in place. Aha, so that's what broke it in the first place! You can't crank it down tight enough to lock, because you're biting the screw itself, and in doing that, you're turning the screw. You literally fight yourself until something breaks- exactly what happened.

I added a washer, and it all went together very well. Boom. Noise decreased to a much more acceptable level.

But there was still a worrisome clunk coming from down in the guts occasionally. As the bike warmed up, it seemed to go away.

WARNING! HERE FOLLOWS NIGHTHAWK TALK! IF THIS OFFENDS YOU, CAN PICK UP THE CB THREAD LOWER DOWN!

Next, we took some time to get my brother's exhaust crossover fixed. This thing, at some point, rusted out and was wrecked. The former owner basically sawed it off and clamped some tin cans over it. Not clean, not effective. So my brother made a new one, which at some point got hit with some road debris and started leaking. Time to replace!

Here you can see the old crossover still in place, but the aluminum and hose clamps that held it in place already removed. Seriously rotten pipes, but a decent replacement.



We pulled the old crossover off, yanked the middle section out of it, and bent the old ends back into shape. Here it is.



If this happened to involve sawing notches into them, then so be it. We can be animals when so moved.



Then he taped it in place with some Tiger Patch (some sort of heat-activated, resin-impregnated fiberglass tape) and strapped some aluminum over it just for good measure. It's hideous, but not really visible, and seems to have worked very well.



HERE ENDS THE OFFENDING NIGHTHAWK DIGRESSION! WE PROMISE NOT TO STRAY FROM THE TOPIC ANYMORE!

In the meantime, I was monkeying around with tappets, chain tensioner, and at some point wheeled the bike up next to a vanity mirror he's restoring for his better half. I had to have the shot.



Then we decided to go for a ride, but have lunch first. Lunch was delicious.

Then, suited up in all of our gear, we wheeled the bikes to the curb, fired them up, and let them idle to warm up while we got everything strapped and buckled and buttoned and zipped up.

My bike kept making these horrible clunking noises down in the guts. We had no idea what it was, but the words "bottom end rebuild" were uttered, which is just about the last thing you want to hear after you just finished a top end rebuild. It was a sort of "tonk... tonktonktonk... tonk... tonktonk..." that seemed to be coming from the bottom right of the engine. Weird as hell.

Video with the noise loud and clear here: http://youtu.be/d20QXuxirEc

If anyone can point me to how to embed a video, I'll be forever grateful.

Bikes on the curb and warmed up, directions on the tank... this was possibly the most frustrating moment of the past 50 days.



Then I remembered some words of wisdom my friend uttered when he sold me the bike.

First: "Think of this as a clingy girlfriend. Sometimes it just wants attention for the sake of attention."

Second: "You can tell when the timing is off. It just won't sound right. Like your favorite song played at the wrong speed."

OK, what the hell, we just mucked with the entire top end, especially the cam chain ("timing chain" in car parlance), let's check the timing just for gits and shiggles.

Yup, the timing was off. Fixed that and the clunk went away. I have no idea what it was, but it hasn't come back since.

Then we went for a glorious ride. My first ride, if you discount the occasional low-speed jaunt through city streets. We went all the way out from Oakland to Moraga through the back roads, then back and north along the ridge of the Oakland Hills all the way to the Caldecott tunnel. We stopped there for a bit and admired the low sun over San Francisco. It was a glorious, clear afternoon, and you could see the whole damn bay.

For non-locals, here's what you're looking at:
Foreground: My bike, and the shoulder of Grizzly Peak Boulevard, just south of the Caldecott tunnel (the tunnel takes the freeway east through the mountains).
Midground: the ridgeline is the Berkeley (north/right) or Oakland (south/left) hills, a richy-rich area. You can see the freeway that'll eventually go through the Caldecott at the bottom of the ridge on the left. Behind the ridge to the right is Berkeley.
Background: the flats on the left are downtown Oakland- home, sweet home. To the right is the San Francisco Bay, with the Bay Bridge and Treasure Island/Yerba Buena Island visible as a comma-shaped dark patch just to the left of the sunshine on the water.
Horizon: Dead center is the skyline of San Francisco in the distance. The tall pointy thing up on the hill is the famous radio tower (a major San Francisco landmark, and iconic of the city if you're a local, and completely unknown if you're not). The tiny spike in the middle of the water is the south tower of the Golden Gate Bridge, and the tiny spike on the beach to the right of that is the north tower. To the right of that is Marin. We're standing here: https://maps.google.com/?ll=37.855999,-122.21175&spn=0.00141,0.00284&t=h&z=19&layer=c&cbll=37.855912,-122.211718&panoid=z6-XtajZokEFoXDGNrNWrw&cbp=12,260.84,,0,4.5 (you can even seen the tip of that same pine tree).



And here are the two bikes, my 36 year old CB550, and my brother less-than-ten-year-old CB250 (the famous Nighthawk).



And here's a horrible picture of us glaring into the sun and trying desperately not to squint. Me on the right, my brother on the left.



Then back home, and we cleaned the shop like it hadn't been cleaned in... well, in 50 days.

Overall, the bike seems to run great now. There are still some bits and bobs that need sorting out- it's still making a rattly, scratching noise that sets my teeth on edge, but I think it's just the sort of engine it is- I've heard a few other CB550s make that noise in various youtube videos, and I've heard old Hondas make it when they go down the road, but I've never heard a well-tuned CB550 in real life, so I have nothing to compare it to. It made a weird rattling noise in the front end (I think) when I hit bumps, so I need to track that and tighten whatever bolt that is. I want to put the front fender braces back on. I want to paint the sidecovers to match the tank stripe (they're shiny black plastic aftermarket ones). The tires are ten years old, and even though I've had a dealer/mechanic tell me they're still good ("no cracks, plenty of tread left, good and sticky") but they're... well, ten years old. I don't think we broke 50 today, and most of the curves were 25-35 miles per hour. Things like that.

And finally, there's the old tensioner in the wast bucket, next to the egg carton that faithfully held my valves in order and the second 100-count box of non-latex gloves we went through. We used the last pair to decant the old oil back into the jugs it came from for recycling.

« Last Edit: October 01, 2012, 12:08:45 AM by DustyRags »
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline dave500

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excellent!,that rattling will more than likely go away with a proper carb vacuum syncronization,if you have a timing light check that aswell,,these engines arent silent,but theyre pretty good once everything is squared away,man youve done bloody well!

Offline DustyRags

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Thanks, Dave, you've been a fantastic help!

I did use a light to time it, and that made the freaky bump noise go away. A carb sync isn't a bad idea- my brother's neighbor (neat guy with an old Chevy pickup and a recently-acquired CB750 bobber) has one he's offered to loan out. That might be next.
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline dave500

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no worries dusty,im not the only one who helps out,,see if the guy with the sync tool can give you a hand with it,,they can take a little experience and youll never ever get it absolutely perfect,,once its hooked up though youll see how far out yours is now,after having the head decoked and what not even if it was good before that sort of work will alter the vacuum between the cylinders,cheers.

Offline Trevor from Warragul

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Out of synch carburetors can cause the primary chain to oscillate, then the clutch will make a clonk clonk clonk noise...

Trevor
1971 Kawasaki H1A
1972 Honda CB350F
1976 Moto Morini 3 1/2 Sport
1978 Honda CBX
1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200
1999 Ducati Monster 750

Offline TwoTired

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The lower end clunk is what I call transmission gear clack.  All five gears are in constant mesh, but on two separate shafts.  The gear tooth mesh is NOT zero lash, meaning there is a gap between teeth on the side not under load.  When a gear changes rotation speed, the tooth contact changes from front to back, and there are ten of these that can do this at the same time.  In neutral, these gears are NOT locked to the shaft they reside upon.

The pitch or intensity of this clack can change with clutch activation, due to the changing mass of the driven plates separating from the friction discs.

The cause is minute changes in crankshaft rotation speed, stemming from uneven firing pulses among the four cylinders.  Compression differences, timing, mixture, and vacuum sync can each contribute to uneven cylinder firing/pulse strength, causing a change in crank rotation speed and subsequent gear clack at idle.  A good tune up generally minimizes or eliminates the gear clack.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Frostyboy

  • Retired: Never was an
  • Expert
  • ****
  • Posts: 1,227
  • Circa 1951
Well that's just fabulous. What started out as a simple oil change has turned you into a SOHC spanner man. It must have felt great sitting up on that mountain thinking back on all the work that it took to get you there.
I agree, that rattle will subside somewhat once the carbs are vacuum synched.
Well done Dusty, I'm proud of you.  ;)

[Edit] I think it's also great that you've been able to rely on a brother to help you through all this as well. Well done to him too.  8)
« Last Edit: October 01, 2012, 06:30:41 AM by Frostyboy »
Last year I joined a support group for procrastinators.
We haven't met yet.
[CB550F1]

Offline becken

  • Hot Shot
  • ***
  • Posts: 270
It would have cost many more dollars and much more time to get the education you've received in the last 50 days. Very well done!!!!!!!!!
1976 CB550F bought new
1981 CM400A wife bought new
2004 GL1800