Author Topic: Cam chain adjust spins round and round + glitter in the oil.... help? CB550 PICS  (Read 42600 times)

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Offline DustyRags

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Frosty, I know you're gonna slag me for this, but I'm inclined to leave it. I'm gonna lay out my reasoning, and feel free to shoot holes in it, but that's where I'm at right now.

-Although it has been flogging around in there for a bit, the chain itself looks to be in great condition- pins look good still (and that's taken the majority of the wear, from what I can tell), it has no perceptible motion on a push-pull test, and only very moderate amount of side flex.

-It's been like this at least the last six years, and according to the previous owner (a buddy, not some rando off Craigslist) it always made that sound while he had it, but hadn't gotten any worse- in other words, a stable issue and not a chain that's been constantly getting worse for years and years.

-My friend had a look at it (and by "friend" I mean "retired aerospace engineer, former motorcycle race team mechanic and bike junky of 50+ years") and he agreed that I really ought to replace it in principle, but that it looked just fine, and while he'd be concerned if I was racing it, he wasn't worried about it on a commuter bike.

-Given all that, it seems to me that what I gain in reliability by putting a new chain in, I lose by dint of having a chain with a master link. Better to wait for the bottom end rebuild and put in a new endless chain then.

-I'm not building a race bike or concourse bike. I'm building a bike to learn riding on (this is my first bike- had it about ten days when I started the tear down), so odds are something else will break long before this chain does. It'll be ridden fairly gently, and likely dropped, chopped, painted, screwed up and generally used and abused the way only a well-meaning tyro can. It's a good engine, but not a pretty bike and never will be unless someone decides to do a full rebuild on it. Do the chain then.

-I'm tight on cash. I already carved a hole in my budget to buy this thing and all the gear, didn't expect to drop hundreds of dollars on a top-end rebuild right away.

So that's my reasoning. Still think it's worth it to put a new chain in? I'm seriously interested in your opinion here, but in a practical sense rather than a "well, while you're in there..." sense. "While you're in there" has seen me drop the sump, rebuild the oil pump and start a head rebuild, and so far all of those were flawless. :P
« Last Edit: August 27, 2012, 11:07:14 PM by DustyRags »
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline Frostyboy

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Mate, the last thing I'll ever do is bag you. I reckon you've shown real drive to go as far as you have. Best learning curve ever. No, if the chain isn't displaying being worse for wear, leave well alone. I totally understand your reasoning.
Keep up the good work mate.  ;)
Last year I joined a support group for procrastinators.
We haven't met yet.
[CB550F1]

Offline DustyRags

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Awesome, thanks :) I can be a stubborn bastard sometimes, but it felt like I had a leg to stand on here.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement- without the forum here I never would have had the courage to crack the ribcage on this beast. Probably woulda left well enough alone, rode it for a bit, painted it and resold it in six months. Or tried, wrecked it, parted it out for cheap. Much happier this way- feels like I stumbled on a band of brothers here. Far-flung, insane, greasy-nailed and brilliant brothers.  ;D
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline goldarrow

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I'll be interested to hear what you end up using for ring compressors, and blocks to hold up the pistons, as you place the cylinder bank back in. I'm headed for similar work.

I used fingers to squeeze the rings in. No blocks underneath. Doable and easy, just make sure work your way slow
Life Is Full Of Challenges - And My Backyard Is Full Of SOHC4's

CB550 K0
CB750 K0, K2, K23 JDM, K45, K5
And the little ones z50r, xr50r, st90


750k5 http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=114817.0

Offline goldarrow

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The cam follower next to the tach drive appears to have uneven wear across the flat.  This usually caused by the steel rocker shafts wearing the aluminum cover surfaces, elongating the holes.

At the very least, take measures to stop the shafts from spinning in the cover.  Even better, get a 77-78 cylinder cover that has a factory pinning mechanism to keep the shafts from spinning.

Cheers,

I read some where to use o-rings in there before put the end cap back on, supposedly to stop or prevent shaft from turning
Life Is Full Of Challenges - And My Backyard Is Full Of SOHC4's

CB550 K0
CB750 K0, K2, K23 JDM, K45, K5
And the little ones z50r, xr50r, st90


750k5 http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=114817.0

Offline dave500

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if those valves pulled out easy enough theyll be ok,your doing great.

Offline DustyRags

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Goldarrow- I checked the cam rocker, and it's actually totally even. That picture was just a bit distorted because there was light glancing off the oil on the rocker arm flat. No play anywhere, they're all like new.

Dave- I need to check it out again, but I think they'll be fine. I seem to recall the stick coming on slowly and not suddenly, but naturally I've been dying to go check it out now. The bike's over at my brother's place a couple of miles away and I haven't had a chance to play with it since Sunday evening. It's killing me! Killing me dead, I say!  ;)
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline DustyRags

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OK, headed out there this evening and the the valves inspected and cleaned up. Looks like there's no burring on any of them (YES!), although there might have been and it just got broken off/smoothed out by the valve guides. One was a bit damaged- more on that in a minute. No way to know. I haven't inspected those yet, although I did check them for the washers (didn't realize those were there... oops) and they're all there. Couldn't get them out though, I think I'll need to pick up a magnet.

Cleaning the valves wasn't fun, but it went with plenty of help from my favorite companions Mineral Spirits and Brake Cleaner, supported by the Abrasive Brothers- Tooth Brush, 3M Scrubby, Brass Bristle Brush and my favorite- Razor Blade. They're not perfect, but the contact areas are totally clean, and there are no major deposits anywhere, and only some minor ones on the ...faces? Plugs? Plunger ends? I dunno, the bit that sticks into the piston. I got that mostly carved off and then said screw it, it'll rebuild soon enough anyhow and it's more important for me to get this thing back up and on the road than to eat off it.

One of the valve stem ends is chipped a bit- it almost looks like the the rocker was hitting it too hard or something and wearing down the corner of it. You can kinda see it in the picture. It's not bad- only about half way around, and just the edge. I wish I could remember if this was one of the ones that was sticking! I'll take it to Charlie's Place when I pick up my pucks on Friday and see what Charlie's got to say about it.

Next: Clean the head, and start building! I've been seeing some stuff about putting it all back together- sounds like I need to put it all together, torque it to speck, wait 24 hours, back it off a few turns, re-torque it, wait 24 hours, back it off, re-torque it a third time and then it'll be good- is that correct? Never done this, and haven't had much time to research that bit.

1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline dave500

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a wire wheel is the best to clean the valves it just strips it right off withoput damage the valves are very hard,that one in the foregrounds stem,it looks a bit pitted,if you have a couple like that you might take them to an engine or head place and theyll buzz the top of them for a few bucks,check the tips of the rocker adjustment tips aswell,theyll have to be replaced if they are pitted or worn as they have a radius to them,check closely the valve in the guide sloppiness on those with the pitted ends,polish the stems with autosol or mothers or similar.

Offline DustyRags

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Cool, thanks for the info! I don't have a wire wheel, but I'll dig around- I'm doing this in my brother's shop, and he's out on vacation so I can't ask him. They should be good to go, but if he's got a wheel I'll give 'em a once-over. Stems are all snug in the guides.

That's the only one that's pitted- I'll double-check the rocker. They all looked fine, but then I didn't know what I was looking for. Might need to see if Greggo's got anything in the Mother Lode- he's local to me. :)
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline percolate

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Hey D-Rags, (tehehe (I can't get the smily faces to place into the text - winking face here))

You're an inspiration! And thanks for all your excellent documentation. I am in the long slow middle of a top end rebuild myself and it's nice to hear of another noobs journey through this mystical land.

I have '76 CB550F, 33.000 mi., this is my first bike, and I just learned how to ride, on it, earlier this summer. Put about 600 mile on it before I got the bright idea that tearing apart the top end was the obvious next thing to do. Among other maladies, nothing really BAD, it was all painted black and the paint was flaking off. It's at the local Honda dealer were a friend of mine is a mechanic and is taking care of it of the books: bead blast, hone cylinders, cut new valve seats, and give it back for me to put together.

I too am cleaning up my valves while it's in pieces and, as inspired by Hondaman, I'm polishing up the intake valves to a nice mirror finish. I'm finding it pretty quick and easy all things considered. I wrapped the end of the valve stem in (gaff) tape and chucked it up in my cordless drill. Then a nice progression of rags (just to get the big gunky stuff I have on the intakes), wet sanding and scotch brights. I'm being careful to keep my sanding media off of the outside of the valves were they seat into the head. (I presume this is the prudent thing to do.) I'll be lapping them once I get the head back from mechanic dude. I'm also careful to not tighten the chuck too much and cut through all the tape and mar the stem. (My drill has a pretty finnesseable chuck to help with this.)

I think tomorrow night when I go to finish them I will clamp the drill in my pipe vise, clamp the drill on, and make even better time having both hands free to do the sanding.

Just a thought for your consideration if you haven't already put it all back together and are out riding again. (Big smile face here, the third on from the left.)  Cheers.



The solution is painfully obvious once you know exactly what the problem is.

1976 CB550F - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=118564.0

Offline DustyRags

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Hey Percolate, sounds like you've got a sweet deal going on there! I'd love to have someone blast off the outside of my engine ;) The good thing is that the paint's in really good condition, despite me having scrubbed off a bit near the mating surfaces when I hit them with the aircraft paint remover, so they'll be fine.

Good idea about the drill, I might do that! They're pretty clean at the moment, and the toughing surfaces are perfect all around, so I'm not too worried about it- I just want to get it going again. I'm brand new to bikes- it's my first bike, and I had it about ten days before I pulled it apart- put maybe 20 miles on it or so. But I'm really glad I'm doing all this, it's been an amazing learning experience!

Oh, and smileys are easy- just put a colon ":" and a closing parenthesis ")" and you've got a smiley- like this: :)
Semicolon makes it a wink: ;)
Figure 8 makes it sunglasses:  8)

Have fun!
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline DustyRags

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So I ran over and checked out the tappet end that's been hitting the damaged valve- it's pristine. Good news there! Then today I ran out to Charlie's Place in SF and grabbed a second emblem and the new valve. He only had one of the rubber boots that cross over between the two mufflers way at the end of the exhausts, and it was $17. I skipped that, and am just gonna run the old beer can/hose clamp trick on it. Should work fine, and it ain't like the rest of the bike's that pretty.

Last time I was out there I picked up a new emblem, since I only had one. It was weird, though, the one I had, had screw holes and the new one he gave me had pins. He insisted it was the right one, so I went with it.

Yeah. I was so wrong. Charlie's fit perfectly, and the holes in the one I had were aligned completely wrong. So today I went back, and he took one look at it and said it was a 350 emblem, not a 550 emblem. Oops. Picked up a second correct one, so I have a matched pair now, and gave the wrong one to Charlie. I'm sure he'll find a use for it. They need some paint, but that's no biggie. I thinking of doing a white back ground with black letters. Should look sharp against a black tank.



And here are the two valves, side by side. The left one is pretty chipped up, as you can see, and the right one is clean, clean clean. It's a used valve, of course, but in fine condition. Hopefully it'll lap in pretty easily, and I can just put it all back together easy peasy. And yes, that's a drum in the background. You can see my riding boots to the right of it.

« Last Edit: August 31, 2012, 06:22:37 PM by DustyRags »
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline DustyRags

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OK, I got the valves all lapped in and the guides checked out. By and large, it went very well, although I did find one issue. One of the valves did have a small burr on it, and it did scratch the guide a bit.  >:( It's a very small scratch (once I got it cleaned up and stuck it back in with some oil and pulled it back out, the scratch was completely invisible), but still. For some reason, one of the valves got a burr part way down it, almost as if it got hit there or something, or maybe a crack, but it doesn't look like it. I filed it down flat, and now it goes in and out easily and doesn't scratch anymore. Since it's not part of the valve that sits in the guide, I'm tempted to use it and see if I can get the head built Monday, otherwise I'll need to pick up another valve, probably Thursday or whenever the pucks show come in at Charlie's place and I make the trek out there.

I'd love to have any opinions on this. Obviously I should replace the thing since it's damaged, but it's not like this is a very clean bike otherwise, and I really want to get riding, so I'm tempted to leave it if that's not going to make things much worse.

Forcepts plus rare earth magnets made quick work of the steel washers down around the valve guides.




Some time in a tub with mineral spirits, a tooth brush and plenty of canned carb cleaner and brake cleaner brought the head back to shiny life.



Unlapped- lapped.



I got the whole thing clamped down to the work bench so I could get to both sides of the head without worrying about it falling off and destroying itself against the cement.



Since the intake valves and seats were already clean, I hit them with a red sharpie so I could see where they made contact.



That new-to-me valve lapped in just fine.



You can see that stupid burr about a half inch below the point where the wedges attach. Teach me to inspect things when I need them, rather than before!



And while I was working on one side of the shop and occasionally imposing on my brother to hold something or take a picture, he finished his project- a gorgeous queen-size cherry wood bed he was commissioned on.



I might build it Monday, I might decide to go hiking instead and pick up a new valve and do it right. We'll see.
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline bryanj

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Proably better to get another valve as that damage is about where the stem seal is and you don't want that letting oil past
Semi Geriatric ex-Honda mechanic and MOT tester (UK version of annual inspection). Garage full of "projects" mostly 500/4 from pre 73 (no road tax in UK).

Remember "Its always in the last place you look" COURSE IT IS YOU STOP LOOKIN THEN!

Offline DustyRags

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Ooh, good call! I think I'll pick up another stem this week, and see if I can get the cylinders and head hot dipped and maybe painted black to match the tank, frame, and rear fender.

Must do this right. Must do this right! :)
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline Tews19

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Very very interesting build. I'm curious about the later 77-78 heads on a 75 supersport.

TT would this be a good swap to do if one was this far?
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline LesterPiglet

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I think the heads are the same, it's the valve cover that was modded.
'Then' and 'than' are completely different words and have completely different meanings. Same with 'of' and 'have'. Set and sit. There, their and they're. Draw and drawer. Could care less/couldn't care less. Bought/brought FFS.


Les Ross.            Certified by a Professional

Offline Tews19

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Ahhh. So should I look into maybe upgrading that if I ever decide to do a build?
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline LesterPiglet

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I believe there is a modification that is worthwhile but I have a 77 550 so haven't bothered to research it. A good man to ask would be Two Tyred.
'Then' and 'than' are completely different words and have completely different meanings. Same with 'of' and 'have'. Set and sit. There, their and they're. Draw and drawer. Could care less/couldn't care less. Bought/brought FFS.


Les Ross.            Certified by a Professional

Offline TwoTired

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I'm 90% certain that the cylinder heads are the same from the CB500 through all of the CB550s.

The cylinder head cover changed in mid to late 76 to eliminate the elongation of the rocker shaft holes from the shafts turning with the rockers instead of the rocker on the steel shafts.

Early covers have eight shafts that are free to float.  Late covers have four shafts that are pinch pinned in place. (see attached S/B.)
If the early covers wear, they usually wear unevenly, which kants the rocker, and the follower no long fits flat across the cam lobe. This wears both unevenly and galling of both surfaces is almost a certainty.  This is a bad thing.

The folklore "fix", which I have applied to a new replacement early style cover ($255 from Honda many years ago), is to add orings between the end retainer and the shafts.  The theory is that this adds enough pressure to the shaft(s) to keep them from turning with the rocker movement.  I sold this bike a couples years after due to garage population explosion, so I never got a chance to evaluate the folklore "fix".  All the rest of the CB550's that I have repaired with the rocker shaft hole problem were with the newer style 4 pinned shaft covers, which I believe is a superior fix.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline DustyRags

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Cool, thanks, TwoTired and everyone else. I'll have to check which I have, but looking at the pictures it looks like I have the old style head cover. Everything's still pretty snug, though, so I'm not hugely worried about it.

In other news, I picked up the pucks and a new valve on Thursday, so I should have everything i need for the build. Works' been insane the last two weeks, and I seriously needed to get out of town this weekend, but hopefully next weekend I'll get it at least partly built. I'll keep posting here with build pics.
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline DustyRags

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Progress! I got back in the shop and got that last valve lapped in. And then my brother announced he was taking off to a party, so I wrapped it all back up.

But then! A blast of lightning from blue sky! His girlfriend was just leaving work an hour away! So he agreed to stick around and give me a hand with building the head back up if I gave him a ride to the party! Here's how it all went down...

First, of course, scrub the head. Again. Really well. Because this was likely the final scrub, I double-checked everything, and found some crud in the spark plug threads.

So being a master fabber, I whipped up a custom brush to fit in there! 'Cause that's how we roll in Oakland.



It did the trick beautifully, and everything got scrubbed down with mineral spirits and then blasted out with break cleaner. Great stuff- dissolves everything, evaporates clean. I love it.

Next up, was yanking the old valve seals. Easier said than done, considering that they have a little washer in them, a clip holding them on, and you can't scratch the valve guides. But with some experimentation I figured out that I could snap my nice, big forceps onto them, brace the the whole thing against my thumb, and pop them off.

Just like this:



Gotcha you little bastard!



Next, we headed over to the drill press, jammed my custom plastic spring compressor tip back into the chuck, stacked up some wood as a nice little cradle, and with one person holding and the other operating the press, we got those damned little wedges jiggered back in. Some of the springs had high sides, so they didn't like to sit totally even and getting the wedges in took quite a bit of poking. Oh, and those forceps? Yeah, my neat little trick of sticking rare earth magnets on them to get those washers out completely magnetized them. I could get stuff in, but I couldn't let go. Serious pain in the butt. Luckily, my brother had a smaller pair that was NOT magnetized. Seriously don't know what I would have done without that kid.

Here it is, all build up.



Sometime later this week we'll do a leak test on it, hit the pipes with some chrome polish, hopefully get that tank and maybe the fender stripped and re-painted (just rattle can, but it'll be fresh rattle can), and then start building this weekend. Or so I say. Again. Cross your fingers!
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline DustyRags

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More progress! Started last night with testing the valves. We poured some gasoline in the intake ports, kicked some plastic tubs out of the way, tilted the head up at and angle so the mating surfaces were horizontal, set a timer for five minutes, and walked away.

A couple of minutes later, they were still totally dry. We started prepping the tank for stripping.

Then my brother heard the timer go off, but I was elbow-deep in Aircraft stripper.

Then he wandered over to look at them about the 7 minute mark, and there was fuel everywhere. I mean, it had completely soaked one of the shop towels. The #1 port must have put out something like three ounces of gas. Way more than we poured in there, so it must have been #1 & #2, but of course the towel was soaked, so we couldn't tell.

Then we figured out that the plastic tubs we'd thoughtfully flipped over and leaned against the back of the band saw had had some water in them, and that was what was soaking the towels. The head was fine. At the 8 minute mark, there was a tiny bit of liquid on the valves, but not even enough to mark the towels. Flipped the valves over, and the other side (exhaust) was the same- a tiny bit of liquid at the 5 minute mark, and no worse at the 20 minute mark. We pronounced them good to go.

At the same time, I was figuring out how to strip paint off. Although the outer layer was rattle-canned that I know from personal experience comes right off with fuel (there's a reason we're stripping this thing), I think I want a completely bare tank. I'm going to lay a stripe of black down the top, offset to the left to compensate for the fuel filler hole on the right, and then pastewax the bejeesus out of it.

So I smeared stripper all over it, which started to dry right away, but also softened it up. Hit it with a wire brush, and it worked it all into this horrific slurry. Still, you can already see the original primer (I think), then red, blue and finally that blackrattlecan.



This wasn't working, it was just making a horrible mess of things. Everything smeared together into this beastly, reeking paste. So we poured on a whole mess of the stripper, covered it with plastic wrap, and let it sit until we could see the paint blistering off, and then scraped it with a bit of wood.

That worked much better, and you can see the metal coming out.



We did that one more time, then wiped the tank down with paper towels and dumped the whole thing in a plastic tub for a cold water scrub. At this point, it was down to stubborn bits and tight corners. I pulled it out, and hit it with a razor blade scraper.



So: Aircraft stripper on and then wipe didn't work- it dried out way too fast, and we couldn't put enough on because it just runs down. So goo it up good, plastic wrap that sucker and give it a few minutes. Then scrape the blisters off with wood.

At that point I got an impatient text from my better half asking where I was, so we put it away, cleaned up, and hit the pub for burgers and beer. Good times.

And there it sits, lurking in the shadows, until this weekend when I'll hit it with a wire cup on an angle grinder and get it totally cleaned up. Then rustoleum automotive primer and paint in a can on the underside, and sand up the top side. Black racing strip, some paste wax, and baddabing baddaboom, we're good to go for the rest of the season!



Automotive rustoleum is great stuff. It doesn't go on perfectly even, so I can't really recommend it for large surfaces unless you're going to do a lot of sanding, but for small bits and for anything you won't see, it's amazing. Does well with UV and it scoffs at gas. Same stuff I used to paint my pickup truck a couple of years ago, and while it got a few chips (it's a pickup truck and got used hard), it actually did better than the spray-on rattlecan bedliner in the back.

« Last Edit: September 14, 2012, 07:16:57 AM by DustyRags »
1976 CB550K- sold
2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 500- sold
2000 CB750 Nighthawk - sold
1975 XL350 - crashed
2004 Suzuki Vstrom 650 - sold

Offline Duanob

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Jumped right in with both feet I see?  ;D

A couple of things:

Make sure your oil passage through the head is clear. The two tiny holes on each end is what I'm talking about.  I use a bicycle shifter cable to push through just in case. Make sure your head gasket fits perfect around these two passages. make sure you have the proper o-rings for the passage seals. (I used a bit of heat/oil/gas resistant sealant and a toothpick to on the jug side of the oil passages.) If not, 100% guarantee you will develop a leak there. I sprayed my head gaskey with copper gasket spray on both sides. So far no leaks. Last time I had an ill fitting aftermarket head gasket and developed a leak within a couple hundred miles.

The rubber band trick, or else. All the time you are putting into the top end will end in a heartbeat if you don't.

Paint: use Spraymax2000 with color over a two part primer. Sun and fuel will eat right through rustoleum on a gas tank. There are a few posts here about using it and painting tanks. Kong has a great right up.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=80929.0
"Just because you flush a boatload of money down the toilet, doesn't make the toilet worth more",  My Stepfather the Unknown Poet

1974 CB360T
1976 CB550K2 Resurrected
1976 CB550F2 Barn Find
1979 CX500 VG "HONDA-GUZZI"
2007 Moto Guzzi Breva 750ie
2015 BMW F700GS
Another 1976 CB550K Cafe?

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(*) /' (*)