Topic: Are my points too worn out?

[bryanj]

Firstly throw the damn strobe away!!!! You only need one to check if the advancer is working.

Look in the manual and set the timing static with a light bulb---Its cheaper than a dwell box

[Frostyboy]

Now back to my original questions:

My points need replacing, correct?

They need adjusting, they don't appear to be worn out, but there are issues with that brand.
Will small block Chevy points fit on a 550? (it will fit on a 750)

Who says small block Chevy points fit on a 750?

I finally found a reference for those Chevy points, they were used on a system called Maxi-Dwell. Modified points plate.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=31466.0

[seanbarney41]

Dinitri, certain members are giving you some wacky directions in here...+1 on just using a light bulb/12 volt test lamp and using the instructions in the manual.  The Clymer manual actually covers this topic fairly well, and easy to understand.  If you have trouble getting your Daichi brand points to time up, try setting your gap at .012 (versus .014) and try timing again.  Remember, the point gap affects timing so you must always set the gap first, then set the timing.

[bollingball]

Isn't TEC just coil and condenser?

Either way I still need to get new points/condenser. I MIGHT get a Boyer when I get a job again.

What brand points/condensers are recommended?

TEC is the name of the company that makes the points for Honda I think it is (Toyo electric company) They are the good ones. You may still have to shim your plate.
Also if there is a Honda shop on the moon they can get the TEC points.

Ken

[lucky]

Lucky, where do you get this stuff? On the 2/3 points you don't vary gap to alter timing , you slide the plate. Just go to the service manual , and do the test light method.

I was a Honda dealership mechanic for years

If you set the points gap then set the timing by turning the entire points plate
To get the first set of points to open at the right time then you go to set the other set of points by moving the points plate the the first set will be off.

The points gap is interrelated to the time the points open.

[phil71]

I'd agree with you if it were a 350 twin, but the pic of his plate shows the 2/3 move independently. You don't change the timing with the gap. You set the gaps. Time 1/4, then time 2/3 with the ofsets.  It's right in the service manual.

[Dimitri13]

Don't you set 2/3 timing by moving the plate the points are mounted on (the smaller plate off to the right, not the large plate everything is mounted on)?

[TwoTired]

I'd agree with you if it were a 350 twin, but the pic of his plate shows the 2/3 move independently. You don't change the timing with the gap. You set the gaps. Time 1/4, then time 2/3 with the ofsets.  It's right in the service manual.

+ 1

While changing the gap will change the timing, that's NOT how to adjust for proper timing.  (Horses usually pull the cart rather than push it.)  The point gap (and point cam profile) determines the coil charge time.
After setting the correct gap, the plate is moved around the crank to adjust the proper firing angle/time.  1.4 it adjusted with the main plate. 2.3 is adjusted with the 2.3 points sub plate.

No mechanic (I don't care where they worked) has the ability to change the laws of physics.  The Service manual and the Owner's manual, have it right.

[phil71]

Lucky, what's even more confusing is, you ride a 500 or 550 , don't you? Same points plate..

[lucky]

Don't you set 2/3 timing by moving the plate the points are mounted on (the smaller plate off to the right, not the large plate everything is mounted on)?

Yes. Sorry for the confusion. I am sure you noticed that smaller separate plate
for the second set of points.

You know if I make a mistake on this forum they will eat me alive like a pack of dogs.

Maybe I should have just let you figure it out by your self.

[lucky]

Lucky, what's even more confusing is, you ride a 500 or 550 , don't you? Same points plate..

  No, I do not own a 500 or a 550.

[phil71]

Don't you set 2/3 timing by moving the plate the points are mounted on (the smaller plate off to the right, not the large plate everything is mounted on)?

Yes. Sorry for the confusion. I am sure you noticed that smaller separate plate
for the second set of points.

You know if I make a mistake on this forum they will eat me alive like a pack of dogs.

Maybe I should have just let you figure it out by your self.

actually.... he pretty much did

[Dimitri13]

My bad guys, I was setting the point gap improperly. Both my manuals said "when the points are fully open," which I thought meant on the firing mark. I busted out my timing light and found that the points started to open WAY before the F mark, which conflicted with the timing light method in both manuals.

I adjusted the gap while the points were ACTUALLY fully open, and now I have proper timing (I actually had to retard the plate almost to the limit to get the 1-4 timing dead on). Checked with strobe gun, and 1-4 is nearly dead on, and 2-3 is dead on.

NOW I can finally sort my carbs. They need it too, because 1/8-1/4 throttle is absolutely dreadful, I won't get ANY RPM increase and it'll stumble like a drunk. After 1/4 throttle though it just RIPS. Smells super rich, so I'm going to take off the stack screens and see if it gets better.

Thanks lucky, TT, HM, phil, and everyone else who put up with the drama I caused. Important thing is I learned something!

[lucky]

Dimitri13 taking the velocity stack screens off is not going to help the stumble.

I knew this was going to happen.

After you get your points and timing straightened out, then the jetting is still going to need to be straightened out.