Topic: torque spec for front axle holding screws?

[Mingo]

I can find the spec for the axle holding nut in the manual, but not for the four vertical screws that hold the axle in place. What are those torqued to?

Also, the little arrows on the two pieces that bolt onto the bottom of the forks, and hold the axle on--those arrow go towards the front of the bike, right? That would make sense, but then I'm wondering if they might indicate the direction of the wheel's turning, which would be the opposite way.

[CycleRanger]

Not sure about the exact torque but the caps should oriented like so:

[Mingo]

Thanks. That's helpful, especially the "gap at rear" part. But what are the torque specs. Seems like this would be pretty important.

[RFogelsong]

This past summer when I replaced the front tire on my 550 my friend who helped had a manual of some sort for a 750 that said 25 ft-lbs.  That's what we torqued them to and it's been fine since.  Someone else can give a more definitive answer (maybe with a source, and this is going from memory), but at least it's a starting point

[jtb]

They're 8mm studs, I'd torque em to the manual spec for 8mm bolt/nut on page 1-4 of the manual, 13 to 18.1 ft lbs.

[onepieceatatime]

I know the 650 manual says 13-18 ft-lb which agrees with jtb.
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[scottly]

Tighten the front nut first, so the closed end is solidly butted up against the bottom of the fork leg.

[SohRon]

Tighten the front nut first, so the closed end is solidly butted up against the bottom of the fork leg.

+1

Those arrows should point to the front when properly installed. Others have tried to convince us that the gap should face the front, but I think those little arrows are a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted it oriented to the rear.

If you don't have it, get a Honda manual. All of these torque specs are available there.

[CycleRanger]

Those arrows should point to the front when properly installed. Others have tried to convince us that the gap should face the front, but I think those little arrows are a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted it oriented to the rear.

If you don't have it, get a Honda manual. All of these torque specs are available there.

Heh, I think the multiple illustrations from multiple Honda manuals are also a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted the gap oriented to the rear regardless of what the "others" say...

[SohRon]

Those arrows should point to the front when properly installed. Others have tried to convince us that the gap should face the front, but I think those little arrows are a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted it oriented to the rear.

If you don't have it, get a Honda manual. All of these torque specs are available there.

Heh, I think the multiple illustrations from multiple Honda manuals are also a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted the gap oriented to the rear regardless of what the "others" say...

Me, too, but it's hard to fly in the face of authority and hands-on experience. I suspect Honda tried the gap front position as a short-term experiment that was quickly abandoned for the "correct" orientation. No photo or drawing I've ever seen from Honda shows the gap in front; all have it at the rear.

[liPPy]

This has been discussed before HondaMan says the gap should be at the FRONT not the back. See this thread on the subject back in 2009:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=61497.0

Not again... 

When I started as a honda mechanic, circa 1969, I was assigned for the first 3 months to be the Assembler of new bikes out of their crates (it was a shop tradition, to teach you about the bikes). ALL of the Hondas came with the gaps in the front, despite what the various manuals said, straight from the factories. It was a point on the cheklist, done by the shop manager, after the assembly. I did get it wrong on a few at first, and was reprimanded, so it was always easy to remember after that.

A mechanical stress analysis will show that the forces involved in a bump incident will enter the rear stud with far less shear (i.e., strees vector enters at an angle) if the faces meet flat. In real life, the studs are so big that I doubt anyone would ever shear one off: I once changed oil on a California rider's bike (at our Illinois shop) who was on a cross-country two, two-up, and one of the nuts on the front cap was missing altogether! There was no damage, and he never noticed until I pointed it out and sold him a nut and the two washers. It was bolted flush on the back side, front one missing.

Popcorn anybody? 

[SohRon]

Those arrows should point to the front when properly installed. Others have tried to convince us that the gap should face the front, but I think those little arrows are a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted it oriented to the rear.

If you don't have it, get a Honda manual. All of these torque specs are available there.

Heh, I think the multiple illustrations from multiple Honda manuals are also a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted the gap oriented to the rear regardless of what the "others" say...

Me, too, but it's hard to fly in the face of authority and hands-on experience. I suspect Honda tried the gap front position as a short-term experiment that was quickly abandoned for the "correct" orientation. No photo or drawing I've ever seen from Honda shows the gap in front; all have it at the rear.

It's already been discussed.

[CycleRanger]

Popcorn anybody? 

Regardless, the later, perhaps revised, documented procedure is to install with the gaps to the rear.

I'd like to see the setup guide for the early 750K.  Anyone have it?  Hino?

[SohRon]

Popcorn anybody? 

Regardless, the later, perhaps revised, documented procedure is to install with the gaps to the rear.

I'd like to see the setup guide for the early 750K.  Anyone have it?  Hino?

+1  The whole bike was an experiment.

[LesterPiglet]

I think just use common sense tightening those nuts, unless you are hamfisted. Never used a torque wrench on them yet.

[lucky]

They're 8mm studs, I'd torque em to the manual spec for 8mm bolt/nut on page 1-4 of the manual, 13 to 18.1 ft lbs.

Thats what I did. Seemed right. I also used blue Locktite.

[lucky]

Those arrows should point to the front when properly installed. Others have tried to convince us that the gap should face the front, but I think those little arrows are a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted it oriented to the rear.

If you don't have it, get a Honda manual. All of these torque specs are available there.

My 1978 had dots punched in the casting that lined up.

Heh, I think the multiple illustrations from multiple Honda manuals are also a pretty definitive indication that Honda wanted the gap oriented to the rear regardless of what the "others" say...

[paulmac]

Front axle holding nut torque settings are: 13 - 16.6 lbs-ft. and the gap is at the rear of the fork.
     :-)