Topic: strange points -- SOLVED!!

[Greg]

So it was a crossed wire, somewhere deep within the bike's system. i used a temporary wire to replace the yellow wire running from the connection point after the points, to the coil, and voila, the bike i found abondoned in a lot roared to life!!!  time to strip it down, paint it, and make it mine!!
thanks everyone for your help, and here is another word of support for assuming that all of your wiring is f**cked before you even start!
greg



hey all
so i found a 76 cb750f, lien saled it, and now it's mine!!  gonna make it into a sweet little racer...
first i need to get it going. did all the normal tuneup stuff and couldn't get any spark. so i replaced the points and that is where i am getting confused:

when 1:4 and 2:3 are open i get 11.6 volts across both sets of points
when 1:4 is open and 2:3 is closed i get 0 volts on both sets of points
when 1:4 is closed and 2:3 is open i get 0 volts on 1:4 and 11.6 volts on 2:3

the po #$%*ed with some of the wiring, so right now there is no kill switch. i cleaned all the relevant connections, i think, and the battery is new.
i am confused about what is going on. any guiding words on where to check next? is something crossed so that when 2:3 is closed i am somehow grounding both sets of points?

thanks for any help!

[Greg]

anyone?

[eldar]

Hard to say there. You will probably want to get a wiring diagram and check things out and put back in the kill switch.

That would be the best place to start, this will also help minimize future electrical problems.

[TwoTired]

Custom electrical wiring with no publicly available schematic must be repaired on a case-by-case basis.

Chasing two wire connections is fairly straight forward.

The 1-4 points wire should connect to the 1-4 coil and nothing else.

The 2-3 points wire should connect to the 2-3 coil and nothing else.

Each coil's black/wht wire is connected to the bike's black/wht wires from the kill switch or directly to the bike's black wires on the bike (switched 12V), if it has no kill switch.

This assumes your bike uses Honda color codes, which bike modifiers may or may not install.  This bit of important info was not included in your query.

[Greg]

two tiered and eldar, thanks.
twotiered - yes, the color scheme remains the same.
i have cahsed the wires. i have a red wire from the fuse box switch connected to the black wire where the kill switch used to be, which connects to the coils, which connect only to their respective points. could the symptoms be caused by a bad condensor? i cleaned and tightened the ground....where else could i look?
thanks!

[TwoTired]

i have a red wire from the fuse box switch connected to the black wire where the kill switch used to be, which connects to the coils, which connect only to their respective points. could the symptoms be caused by a bad condensor?

Strange bike you have there.  You have a fuse box switch?
Honda's Red wires are always hot, battery positive.

If the condenser is shorted, that's a problem.  Remove one end of it and repeat your test.  But...
This test:
"when 1:4 and 2:3 are open i get 11.6 volts across both sets of points"
...indicates otherwise.

Still seems like your issues are with the wires between points and coils. Are they shorted together?  Do both wires go to the same coil?

[Greg]

strange bike indeed.
thanks twotiered for the input. i am certain that both wires do not go to the same coil, however i will double check when ig et home tonight.
i will try and replace the condensors as well.
I cannot *see* any shorts in the wires between the points and the coils, however i cannot see all of the wires. i guess the next step is to perform a continuity test with my voltmeter (i am bit slow on the electrical - basically run a current through one of the wires and see if the other wire completes the circuit, right?)
i will check this stuff out and report back tonight
thanks again!
greg

[Greg]

bump