Author Topic: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue  (Read 1586 times)

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Offline CBRider02

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1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« on: June 24, 2012, 05:31:56 PM »
Hello,

I'm new to the forum so looking forward to some insight from people who have been through a similar situation. I guess I'm hoping there's someone out there who can give me some advice on setting up these carbs ideally to get the most power out of the bike. I've gone through and adjusted timing, valve gaps, changed the points, cleaned and synched the carbs, and cleaned up all the electrical. I've also put on the UNI foam replacement air box and a Mac 4-into-1 exhaust but those are the only changes I've made from stock, besides changing out the handle bars to some lower ones, but my goal is to keep as much of a stock, retro look as I can. The bike runs pretty well, but it lags a bit taking off from a stop and also in the higher rpm's, especially at higher speeds in 4th and 5th gear. I have the air screws turned out to stock 1 1/2 turns and the original #90 main jets are in place. I was thinking about installing #98's, which I believe is what the CB550F Supersport had, raising the needles one notch, and turning the air screws another quarter turn out. Overall a richer set up. I'm not sure, but I think even though the UNI foam air box is supposed to match the stock airflow, it is foam so it proabably lets a bit more air through.

You guys think I'll gain some power this way?

Also, the braking on this bike is a little rough. I'd really like to avoid taking the drum apart unless I have to, but with regards to the front brake, what kind of pads would give me the best stopping power? There are a lot of differend kinds, and even if they don't last as long I'd still like to get some pads on here that will give me the most braking power possible, especially since I ride with a passenger some of the time. I bled them once but they're still a little squishy so I'm going to do it again and I'd like to get some different pads on if anyone has some advice on that.

Thanks very much for taking the time to read and I appreciate any advice you can give me!

 
« Last Edit: June 24, 2012, 05:35:32 PM by CBRider02 »

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2012, 06:26:48 PM »
Don't compare the jets for the supersport with the K model, as they have completely different carbs.

With pipe change and the air filter, you are likely running very lean, pretty much over all the throttle settings.

The slide needle should probably lifted one notch and the main jet to 95 -ish (Maybe more, but most over do the jet increase.)  The exhaust and air filter mods are a MAJOR change to this model bike.  Much moreso than earlier models.)  To regain throttle twist response, you can try opening the Idle mixture screw (it's not and air screw on the PD style carbs).
You will have to custom tune this bike to match your specific mods.  Which means either a trip to the Dyno for a fuel map print out.  Or, a test track and several sets of jets and clean spark plugs, to do wide open throttle runs with a plug deposit read after each test run.

New pads won't cure your brake perceptions.  And, after trying out several brands, find that Honda made the best selection of pad material to match the rotor material.  The front rotor is very hard making pads difficult to grab/bite.  I believe drilling holes does helps that, though. You will need a strong hand to lock up the front tire.  (A practice I don't favor at all.)   Changing the rubber brake lines to SS style will make the brakes much better, assuming that the pads you have haven't been contaminated with oil or other fluids...ever.  No doubt a proper bleed with help firmness regardless.  The stock bar height will allow the system to self bleed as the bubbles with rise to the master and exit.
  Low bar will very rarely self bleed as line runs trap air at any high point in the system.  If the front caliper has never been refurbished, it is probably due, unless it was flushed every year since new.  (never known THAT to happen) ;D
If you want to operate the front brake with one finger, then you will need to replace the whole front brake system with something more modern.

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline CBRider02

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2012, 01:23:51 PM »
Hey thanks for responding. Maybe I'll stick to bleeding the brakes again and making sure the line isn't higher than the master at any point. If I replace the pads I'll stick to Honda oem if I can get my hands on them, and maybe look into SS lines.

Good call on the jets. I also noticed that my jets aren't push in, they're threaded. So, not sure I can get replacement jets for this bike anyway. I'll have to keep looking. If I can find them I'll probably put 95's or 100's on, the lowest I can find available, raise the needles a notch, and turn the mixture screws to 2 turns out. Then I'll see where I'm at. Trying to keep it simple and just get solid performance out of an everyday rider. I'll prob use wide open flat country roads for my track/dyno. But hopefully with a richer overall mixture I'll get solid throttle response over all ranges. I'll make sure to keep checking the plugs to dial it in. I'll respond again with what I ended up setting up at. Thanks again!

Offline lucky

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2012, 01:30:23 PM »
I agree with TWO TIRED mostly. Yes...forget that F model.

I would move the needle up, by lowering the clip one notch from stock.
But I would use a 105 main jet.
Mixture screws about 1-3/4 turns out.

This combo is being used by several other owners on this forum with the 1978 550K with good results.

Check your plugs after you make these changes.

« Last Edit: June 28, 2012, 01:32:17 PM by lucky »

Offline CBRider02

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2012, 08:43:29 PM »
Sounds good. Know where I can get the jets???

bollingball

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2012, 10:18:06 PM »
This place has the most carb parts for our bikes.
Ken

http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=2188

Offline CBRider02

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2012, 09:27:03 AM »
Thanks guys. Just debating on jet size. The Uni NU-4055 is supposed to match the flow of the paper oem filter, and if it's not letting more air through then putting on the 4-into-1 shouldn't have mattered much as far as changing jet size, right? I mean it's probably letting less air through than the pods so it's not like I'm adding a ton or air, I'm assuming. That's the only thing that has me going back and forth on the jet size.

lucky - in the other posts you mentioned using your combo below did they say what they're using for an air filter? Box or pods?

As I mentioned before, based solely on going from the paper to foam I must be letting a little more air through, regardless of whether it claims to match the oem airbox flow. I just don't know if I should jump from 90's to 105's out of the gate.

Just thinking out loud...

Also, TwoTired - Where did you get that nice looking back rest in your pic?

Thanks for bearing with me guys!

bollingball

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2012, 09:31:51 AM »
Sirius also has kits with several jets to experiment with.

Ken

Offline TwoTired

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2012, 12:02:21 PM »
Thanks guys. Just debating on jet size. The Uni NU-4055 is supposed to match the flow of the paper oem filter, and if it's not letting more air through then putting on the 4-into-1 shouldn't have mattered much as far as changing jet size, right?
It is not just about air volume, it is about air pressure.  The carb throat pressure (negative with respect to outside the carb) is what draws fuel from the jets.
The filter membrane style/type changes the differential pressure drop across that membrane with the selection.  Paper has finer holes but a lot of them.  The foam has fewer holes but they are larger.  And so, the pressure drop across the Uni is slightly less, leading to slightly less fuel volume from the carb's jets, as the pressure differential seen by the jet orifices is slightly less.
It is only at or around red line RPM that air volume restriction actually occurs.  Still if ONLY an air filter style change, the carbs shouldn't become too lean for the engine.  Remember, the carb has no way to automatically adapt to components that Honda did no intend to be installed on the bike.  The Honda carbs operate purely on physics principles, and the filter membrane style alters the physics baseline.  But, you didn't JUST change the filter, did you?  More about exhaust later.

I mean it's probably letting less air through than the pods so it's not like I'm adding a ton or air, I'm assuming. That's the only thing that has me going back and forth on the jet size.
PODs change/shorten the inlet duct length (again a major carb throat pressure alteration) as well as changing the membrane/media pressure drop.  Neither of which the carbs can automatically adjust for as it does not sense engine needs, only the physics (pressures) applied to them.

As I mentioned before, based solely on going from the paper to foam I must be letting a little more air through, regardless of whether it claims to match the oem airbox flow. I just don't know if I should jump from 90's to 105's out of the gate.
If you have it running now, a direct pointer to severity can come from reading the spark plug deposits under load conditions. (A "plug chop").  Or, a dyno fuel map print out.

What you have is custom and not like anything else that been assembled before.  Did you follow some known and well understood "recipe" for assemblage of components?

The stock 78 came under direct import scrutiny from the EPA, which required a hydrocarbon sniff test on the model style.  To achieve the goal, the exhaust system was redesigned as a high pressure type.  The effect is that cylinder scavenging is incomplete.  This meant the some hydrocarbons and less oxygen was available for the next firing cycle, so the hydrocarbons could be put through another combustion cycle with additional oxygen.  More oxygen is needed to be delivered to the cylinder along with less fuel for the engine for efficiency.  The result was less Hydrocarbons found in the sniff test and the EPA was happy to allow importation.
Note, the carbs were adjusted to reduce fuel and increase air being delivered to the cylinder to meet the needs of the engine with the high pressure pipes.  I know of NO aftermarket exhaust system that mimics the 77-78 4 into 4 stock pipe, and almost all of the them tout "less restriction" and "free flowing" as sales attributes.
For this model in particular (77-78 CB550K), this also demands that the carb jetting be altered to accommodate the exhaust characteristic change.  However, if the sales/marketing departments of the aftermarket supplier determine this knowledge may deter sales, they won't tell the prospective buyer about this at time of purchase.  My, projection, (for what it is worth), tells me that the jetting orifice for the PD carbs will have to be enlarged just to restore original A/F mixtures delivered to the engine.  I can't determine the magnitude precisely.  But, I would start with #95 (see earlier post), and then test for effect, adjust and repeat, until the engine ran well, showed good plug deposits, and exhibited best 1/4 mile acceleration times (assuming no access to a dyno).

For this model, and to add to the confusion, the venturi shape of the PD carbs is different than early model carbs.  So, jetting choices for early model carbs associated with air filter and exhaust style changes, will not directly apply to the PD style carbs.

I will add that, reports from third or fourth parties about jet selection is highly subjective, and completely unsubstantiated with reproducible facts in nearly all cases.
"Butt dyno" reports are essentially meaningless, as it can mean they were able to drive around the block and made it home before the plugs fouled, to "the person they sold the bike to never complained about awful gas mileage and nasty stumble with throttle twist".  Many have never ridden a stock bike in proper tune and have no basis for any performance comparison besides, "it runs ok for me, and I don't want to work on it anymore".

Add to the above that no two 4 into 1 systems are the same among brands (any many between examples from the same manufacturer).
For many, its a style choice/description rather than having any performance parameters/data about that choice.  (The cool racers have 4 into 1s, so they must ALL be good for my bike, right?)

PODs is another "style choice" with no engineering parameters appearing with most brand selections.

So, when the folklore "database" list "pods and 4 into 1 exhaust", it tells you nearly nothing about how your selection of pods/filter, exhaust system choices that YOU made will operate with the carbs and engine YOU have assembled.  Particularly when the database only lists "runs good" as a qualifying parameter for selection, with no quantification of what "runs good" actually means in performance, or fuel metering accuracy.

In short, if you are going to make design changes, you become the designer, and assume the design responsibilities associated with that.  If it is only about style when parked, you can avoid a big part of the learning curve and test/adjust cycles.  Don't underestimate the man hours that Honda paid for that bike in stock form.

Also, TwoTired - Where did you get that nice looking back rest in your pic?

The back rest is an era survivor I got with my 76 CB550F rescue project.  It sat in the Arizona sun which kept the metal bits from rusting, but ruined any plastic the sun's rays could punish.  So, the cover was awful and really regraded.  But, my wife liked it so much, I made a new cover, using the old one as a pattern.  I primarily wanted the luggage rack, so I could strap lunch boxes, brief cases, computer luggage, and other sundries to the bike in my travels about town.  The backrest is actually removable, and can be moved forward for functional use by the driver.  It also has a zippered pocket on backside of it, that I mostly use to store the bungee cords when not in use.  I think I've seen only one other like it...ever.

I'm sure many would label it ugly.   I try not to live by other's "sensibilities".   ;D

Cheers,
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline CBRider02

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Re: 1978 CB550K Keihin Carb Issue
« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2012, 01:31:19 PM »
Ok I ended up going with 95's for the main jets and turned out the mixture screws 1 3/4 turns. Now I believe it's running quite rich so I may need to dial it back toward the stock 1 1/2 turns until it evens out. The reason I think it's rich is when I start the bike it only needs to be choked for a minute tops, during summer weather, and when I do pull the choke it only raises the rpms a couple hundred, where before if I pulled the choke it would raise the rpms around a thousand. If I keep it choked any longer than a minute or so the bike will shut off. The jet needles are in the stock position. Another variable is that fuel is leaking excessively from the overflow tube on one of the carbs. It has been doing this ever since I cleaned the carbs, haha. I took them off again and noticed that there is a groove worn into the rubber portion of the float needle that sits in the orifice where the fuel comes in. I'm assuming when I put the carbs back together the groove worn in is no longer matching up in the exact position it was, so now it's leaking. I ordered a new float needle so I'm waiting on that now. I'm assuming this is effecting the mixture a bit so I'm going to replace the float needle, and if it stops leaking, address the richness of the mixture. Any tips or advice ect are appreciated. I just want to ride man this is agonizing!