Topic: front wheel bearing retainer romoval

[texianbiker]

I have a K0 750 (built 10/69) that I am respoking and replacing the front wheel bearings on.  The spokes came off fine and the wheel bearings were nicely priced from Purvis Bearing but....I can't get the @#$% retainer off the hub.  The manual shows a hammer screwdriver fusion but all I've managed to do was bugger up the slots with nary a hint of retainer movement.  The retainer is the 2 slot type....does anyone manufacture a tool for this?  If not what's next?

[70CB750]

Thrre shoud be two dimples to drill out before you try to screw it out.

[MCRider]

I have a K0 750 (built 10/69) that I am respoking and replacing the front wheel bearings on.  The spokes came off fine and the wheel bearings were nicely priced from Purvis Bearing but....I can't get the @#$% retainer off the hub.  The manual shows a hammer screwdriver fusion but all I've managed to do was bugger up the slots with nary a hint of retainer movement.  The retainer is the 2 slot type....does anyone manufacture a tool for this?  If not what's next?

What he said ^^^^

I see you are a newbie, welcome.

The retainer issue has been worked to death here in the forum.  Search.

But bears repeating. AS said you MUST FIRST drill out the staking dimples or you will be very sorry. These are 2, sometimes 4, dimples that are punched into the seam where the threads of the hub meet the retainer. Use a bit slithly larger tahn the dimple, and drill down about an 1/8 to 3/16.

As to a tool, search retainer tool in the Google Custom Search field.

[Johnie]

Welcome to the board. You have come to the right place for help. One thing you will learn here...we really like pics. Post some up of your KO when you get a chance. When you get the retainer off and bearing out, there is a spacer in there. Looks like a tube. Be sure you remember which way it goes in as I think one side is larger than the other. Been I while since I did my KO, but better to be safe than have to try to remove the new bearing. Good luck and let us know how you come out...

[greenjeans]

drill out the stake marks for sure or it won't go anywhere.    I always use a heat gun and some pb blaster - over and over.  That combination loosens most things.

If you're close to Denton, I can give you a hand.

[texianbiker]

Have drilled dimples to a point where I lack confidence in going any deeper.  Member Greenjeans offered hands on help but, I'm not familiar enough with your site protocols to send him a message.  Am embarrassed to ask for help but your messaging feature is not intuitive (at least to my dumb a$$)

[andrewk]

I've always had poor luck hammering them out.  I much prefer using a pair of needle nose pliers spread out, with a prybar down low in the opening of the pliers.

All this of course, after drilling out those stake marks.  If you tried to move it before drilling, you might have a tough go of it.

Sometimes if they're really buggered you just have to break them out and use a new one.  Still available from honda, I think the price is in the 16 dollar range.

Hopefully greenjeans can help you out- good luck!

[CoachDoc]

Here's a cheap but effective tool I made to remove the rear bearing retatiner. You might need a different sized u-bolt for the front retainer, but the principle is the same. Others have posted about their creations for this job, so lots of options out there. Good luck.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=97342.0

[Johnie]

I have taken a couple correct size drill bits and put them upside down in the 2 retainer holes. Then I put a flat pry bar between them and and turn it out. So far has worked on everyone I tried.

[skamagedon]

isnt it reverse threaded?

[fishslayeryo]

isnt it reverse threaded?

Not on my 750k1. I drilled them out and used the needlenose method and used a big crescent wrench get some torque on the pliers to get the initial break...worked well. Good luck & welcome!

[fishslayeryo]

Here's a pic of mine once I had drilled it and taken out the retainer. Don't be too afraid to drill it out, I couldn't break it lose till I did. As you can see it's not super shallow...the threads that is. Good luck!

[MCRider]

isnt it reverse threaded?

Just on the 500/550. Go figure.

[jerry h]

Just replaced my bearings as well - 1st time.  My hint (same as above) would be drill out the stakes just a "tad" more than what you think.  It seems like you are going to ruin the threads by drilling into the hub, but actually you do more damage by not drilling enough and trying to force the locknut off.   Should turn off easy after breaking loose.  After you do one, it makes more sense on what is required.

[Dimitri13]

isnt it reverse threaded?

Just on the 500/550. Go figure.

I recently did my 550's bearings on both wheels. The rear wheel is reverse threaded, and the front wheel was normal threaded.

[CoachDoc]

isnt it reverse threaded?

No, but many of the rear bearing retainers are.

[dhall57]

I've got wheel bearings on order for my KO, should be here in a few days. I'll let you know how my removal and installation goes I'm sure the tips talked about here will help

[Raul CB750K1]

On the CB350 I just improvised a removal tool with a thick plate and a crescent wrench. I don't recall having to drill anything though

[rhinoracer]

Have drilled dimples to a point where I lack confidence in going any deeper.  Member Greenjeans offered hands on help but, I'm not familiar enough with your site protocols to send him a message.  Am embarrassed to ask for help but your messaging feature is not intuitive (at least to my dumb a$$)

If it's not turning freely you haven't drilled wide or deep enough.

OR:

If you managed to rotate the collar even a bit before drilling you messed up the dimples and you'll have to drill out the "half dimple" from the hub and the "half dimple" from the retainer which is doable but you'll end up with an ugly hub.

[Raul CB750K1]

Can somebody post a picture of what those dimples look like? I'm having a hard time understanding what you are talking about....

[jerry h]

Heres a pic of a retainer (borrowed from forum archive- from a post from 70CB750),  the stake marks are the 4 small holes in the thread area inbetween the 4 "tool holes"

[Raul CB750K1]

I understand it now. The hub and retainer are machined with the holes, and then some piece of material is inserted to keep the retainer from loosening.

The question is: is it easy to drill only the dimple and not damage the hub and retainer?

[MCRider]

I understand it now. The hub and retainer are machined with the holes, and then some piece of material is inserted to keep the retainer from loosening.

The question is: is it easy to drill only the dimple and not damage the hub and retainer?

Not quite. The dimples in the thread area are put there with a punch. The threads of each piece are distorted and hence they lock together. There is no extra piece inserted.

Running a drill bit into the stake hole will clear out the distorted threads and allow the retainer to rotate. You don't  "damage" the hub or retainer but you certainly modify them. Drilling out the stake is the designed in way of releasing the lock.

The stakes are put in after the retainer is turned to its full tight position. There is no way of knowing in advance where the retainer will end up in rotation, so the stakes are punched in after it is tight. Probably by machine, true, but AFTER the retainer is tight.

You'll want to punch in some stakes as well, upon reassembly. I just put in 2 not 4. Should be enough. Use a hammer and a center punch.

[flybox1]

treat with PB Blaster, and let it sit overnight.  drill out the punch marks.
an adjustable face pin spanner and a BFH had mine out in seconds.