Topic: 12 attempts in and no luck wiring 550 Please HELP

[scottly]

So I have tried and tried, I've resourced every simple wiring diagram I could find.  At this point Im just trying to get the running electrics going, I figure I can deal with lights after it is running.  The bike was running perfect before I took this wiring harness off, Im trying to go basic from scratch but for some reason I can't get spark.  This is what I just put together, if you can help point me in the right direction Id really appreciate it.

I can't make out your labels on the ignition switch. What is the terminal where the battery + connects? Is this a generic switch from a car parts store?

[cprice9]

as far as I know it is the stock one and it has a red, a black, a brown, and a brown/white coming out of it, the red is what is connected to the battery +

[scottly]

With the switch turned on, you should read 12 Volts or more at the black wire on the switch. Meter black lead on ground, red meter lead on switch black wire. (Or just jumper the battery + to the coil black wires and check for spark)

[luap]

if you arnt going to hook up the y/r an blk wire it wont run. eliminate the starter silenoid run the red  wire coming off your key switch back to battery + an the r/w coming off the rectifier also to battery +
thats for kickstart only
another thing since you took it all apart did you hook the blue an yellow wires coming off the ignition to the correct coils blue to 1/4 coils an yellow to 2/3
is your battery good

[scottly]

as far as I know it is the stock one and it has a red, a black, a brown, and a brown/white coming out of it, the red is what is connected to the battery +

Your drawing clearly shows the ign switch divided into 3 sections. That reminds me of automotive switches I've seen, with 3 raised ribs on the back. Please post a picture of the back of your switch.

[cprice9]

[scottly]

Thanks. That does look like a stock switch.

[Round Dice]

To test your battery at any point:

Touch your volt meter leads to the battery posts (red to red, blk to blk)

With the key in the off position you should read about 12v (10-14), even when your battery is dead. 

With the key in the on position you should read 10-12 volts if your battery is good.  If you read less than 10 volts your battery is dying or dead.  Charge it and try it again.  Depending on the history of your battery it may or may not hold a charge.  Then you can decide if you need a new battery.

 

so why when I turn the key to red, which should be ignition (?) do I only get 2-4?

Where were you measuring this 2-4 volts?

[stereosilence]

What about the cutoff switches? On mine, I have to be in Neutral and have the kill switch in the right position.

I PM'd you. I live nearby I believe. I can at least show you how to use the meter 

[cprice9]

So,

after wrestling this bear for a couple of weeks I have my first taste of victory.  I decided to tell the electric start system to go to hell and just run it kick.  Im young enough to not care, never had a kick only, and these bikes aren't like trying to kick an old pan so screw it. 

I pulled the solenoid and ran the r/w from rectifier and the red from the keyswitch right to the + on the battery… I got it to fire(ish)

Im gonna run lights and convert my throttle cables to fit but I will hopefully be back in business this evening…  If not I will be back.

In the meantime, is anyone else running kick only, if so what does your wiring look like?

[Round Dice]

my kick only is just a removal of the solenoid.  The starter motor lead is removed or stashed, and the hot lead from the battery is cut off so it doesn't ground out and blow a fuse or fry a wire. 

Its really not that big a change since you could've kicked it all along.

[phil71]

"I don't understand how this goes together". Another bobber is born!

[Lostboy Steve]

So I relocated the grounds to the base of coil bracket, at this point Im not even worried about my start button I just want to get it to turn over.  The r/y and black coming off solenoid are still not connected to anything.  The multimeter is giving my 2 volts when key is on red dot, and 14 when key is switched up one more position.  At this point I think I might be draining my battery so Im going to pick up a charger and, though I work on computers for a living I don't think Im working my meter the right way so Im going to study up on that. 

In the meantime, here is a pic of where Im at.  Electrical aside Im waiting on a new tail light, rear springs from a GL1000, getting a rear cowl and seat fabricated, stripping my tank down to metal, cleaning carbs, new seals, new chain and sprockets, exhaust, sync, and GO GO GO!!!

That thing looks sweet. What tires / sizes?

[cprice9]

Thanks, they are the ever popular Firestone Champion Deluxe 18-450 rear and 19-400 front  here is an updated pic…



Electrical thankfully solved, however Im not running electric start, Im also not gutting wiring ever again without some type of plan.  Time wasted enjoying yourself isn't time wasted at all.

[lucky]

IF you bought a workshop manual it shows exactly where each and every wire goes.
All you need is a pencil to follow the black line on the drawing.

[phil71]

early on, he said the orig harness was mostly missing.. he was definitely gonna need more than a pencil.

[cprice9]

yeah picked up a manual same day I got the bike, the diagrams though account for everything being wired according to factory spec and I didn't want the majority of that stuff, so I had to start from scratch.  Electrical on these old bikes isn't something to just figure out if you don't have any background in electronics, so it took some doing, but I went on a late evening cruise tonight (around my backyard).

[luap]

cprice9. Ill bump it for you think you will get more replies here. an Rereading some post the new questions have been answered

[cprice9]

Here is the latest as per luau's suggestion...

So I've got a new taillight that Im wanting to run, but Im unable to get running and brake going together, so let me start there.

First off it is a dual filament bulb so it is capable, at this point I've got these wires to run but can't figure the right combo.

BLK from keyswitch and BR from keyswitch
BLK from pigtail rear brake switch and GR/Y from pigtail rear brake switch
There is also 2 connection points on the front brake pressure switch that I'd like to run as well
BLK from taillight and GR from taillight (also running a ground to frame)

Heart of the matter is that Im not getting running light, any suggestions?

Lastly, what is the BR/W line coming off the keyswitch for?

Thanks for any insights folks

[apehanger 550]

 BR/W goes from the keyswitch to the gauge lights

[cprice9]

ah nice, they were the first thing off the beast.

[stereosilence]

Is your headlight on? On mine there is a headlight switch to turn on the headlight and running light (and then another selector for Hi/Lo beams).

[luap]

on the three position switch 0,1,2 - 0 would be blk(power) 1 would be white low 2- blue hi
Br wire doesnt get used
BLK from taillight and GR from taillight (also running a ground to frame). a 3 wire light one to blk (running) other to brake switch (brake light) 3rd ground, If your running 2 different wires off the lightto ground  I dont think its going to work.