Author Topic: Paintjob from a spraycan  (Read 3094 times)

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TARKUS512

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Paintjob from a spraycan
« on: June 29, 2006, 10:10:16 AM »
I'm looking for some advice, tips, or any tech help on doing a paint job from a spraycan? Just a did it myself type thing. I'm not a novice around paint, prep work or spraying. I'm doing this at my job in the receiving bay of the plant and want to keep it simple. Starting with the fuel tank and side covers then maybe the fenders in the future. Also any tips on Best kind of paint to use. Let me rephrase that. The most logical type for my application. Been leaning towards Blueish greens, aqua, and aquamarine's. I'd be interested in getting a glimpse of a GM color use in 62-64 under several names twilight blue, azure aqua, teal mist, and pacific blue.

supersport_CB400F

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2006, 11:40:22 AM »
I just did my side panels with rattle cans, the prep and the painting and clear coating is the easy part buffing them up to get a gloss that  matched my tank  by hand took an age,  :o get a power too!l  ;)

Offline ProTeal55

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2006, 11:42:30 AM »
As any paintjob, it is ALL in the prep work.
I have seen rattlecan jobs that look as good as something that came outta a shop.

For my tank, I took it down to bare metal, bondo'ed the emblem holes up, and then used about two cans of black sandable primer (sanding in-between each coat). Then I sprayed very very light coats of the final paint (low gloss engine enamel) letting each coat setup before spraying the next.
very important not to get runs or "high spots" when using spraypaint. Make sure you stand far enough away when spraying to insure you don't get too much paint in one Particular spot.

Mine came out as good as I could of hoped for the time invested. Not sure about doing something glossy, as I am kinda prone to low gloss stuff now... ;D
« Last Edit: June 29, 2006, 11:44:34 AM by ProTeal55 »
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Offline dusterdude

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2006, 11:47:31 AM »
bifta,that looks damn good
mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

supersport_CB400F

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2006, 12:18:15 PM »
bifta,that looks damn good

Dusty that’s before I buffed them but it takes an age by hand, you ought to see them now  8)

Offline ProTeal55

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2006, 12:33:27 PM »
bifta,that looks damn good

Dusty that’s before I buffed them but it takes an age by hand, you ought to see them now 8)
Well, post some pics then !  ;D
Joe a.k.a ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Maker of Friends

supersport_CB400F

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2006, 12:48:22 PM »
bifta,that looks damn good

Dusty that’s before I buffed them but it takes an age by hand, you ought to see them now 8)
Well, post some pics then !  ;D

On my bike now  8)

Offline ProTeal55

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2006, 01:24:19 PM »
Nice garage you have their...
Joe a.k.a ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Maker of Friends

supersport_CB400F

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2006, 01:30:43 PM »
Nice garage you have their...

The bike likes it’s home comforts so what can I do  ;D plus it's warmer in the winter  ;)


Offline dusterdude

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2006, 01:47:47 PM »
sweeeeet
mark
1972 k1 750
1949 fl panhead
1 1/2 gl1100 goldwings
1998 cbr600 f3

TARKUS512

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2006, 02:20:05 PM »

For my tank, I took it down to bare metal, bondo'ed the emblem holes up,
ProTeal ! Did you sand the paint off the tank or did you use stripper. If I strip the paint off I'll need to skim coat the tank with Bondo or similar product won't I? and how dose the Honda tank emblem come off ? Just snaps on and off?

jmanstuck

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2006, 04:05:16 PM »
  Shake them up & let them stand in real warm water for about a minute. Dry the water off shake them up use sweeping
motions 8 to 10 inches away. Shake the can up every 30 seconds. You will get very even coverage this way. I did a whole
 car hood like that it looked damn good. Proper prep work first is most important.

Offline fang

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #12 on: June 29, 2006, 05:20:32 PM »
I recently (within the last month or there about) painted my Suzuki "British Racing Green" with rattle can paint.  I selected the line of Duplicolor Engine Enamels because they are supposed to be tough, durable and oil/fuel resistant.  This stuff is hard to get right, and it takes a long time to properly cure.  I found it very sensitive to humidity...  However, now that I finally finished it looks pretty good. 

I stripped the tank down to metal, worked out all the dings, and primered it.  Wet sanded all that down, and then shot the green paint.  I didn't worry about little bits of trash, small bugs and dust landing in the paint.  I put on about four coats.  The first three were real thin and the last two or three were pretty thick.  Then I set it all aside for about a week.  Sometimes I would move it all outside for the afternoon so it could bake in the hot Texas sun.  After a week of drying I wet sanded the whole thing with a 1000 grit under a gentle flow from my garden hose, let it drt (with compressed air), wiped it all down  with a Tac Cloth, and then repeated the exact same paint process with Duplicolor Engine Enamel clear coat.  Again I set it all aside for about a week.   


Then I got out my 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit wet/drt sand papers.  Under a gentle flow from the garden hose I first focused on any imperfections with the 1000 grit paper.  This took them all out.  Then I lightly sanded the whole thing with the 1500.  I like to close my eyes and do this mostly by feel.  Then I went back again and did it with the 2000.  I Then lovingly dried it with a clean towel and set it out in the sun to dry for a little while.  Then I finished up with by first hand buffing the whole thing with some Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound, and then hand buffing it all with some Mother's Carbauna Wax.   

The paint looks perfect everywhere.  I mean, when I finished it looked so good that I almost cried.  Seriously.  On this bike I also applied checkers between the green and clear coat.



Then I used some rubbing compound and a clean rag, hand applying the stuff in little circles, going over everything at least twice, paying extra attention to the worse areas.  After sanding this stuff made the paint so smooth!


Then finished with a nice dose of Carnauba Wax. 


I did the whole thing by hand, and HOLY SMOKES!   It turned out good. 
I suppose someone out there would like to see what paints I used, so here are some pics of that crap too.  I bought all this either from WalMart, or one of the local car parts places.



green rattle can paint



clear coat


I also used some primer.... but I think that's all. 
I'll be surprised if anyone actually reads all of this.  I think I posted  some of these same pics a few weeks ago?  I don't remember. 

MY #1 PROBLEM WITH USING RATTLE CAN PAINT IS that it is very slow to dry correctly.  It  is prone to wrinkle up when I applied the second coat (clear coat), and I ended up having to redo it a few times before it is right.
My #2 problem with using rattle can paint is that it is not as durable as "real" automotive two-part paints.  Even when it is dry (a month+ to cure) it still is more easily damaged.

I did this bike with rattle can paint sort of on a bet that it could not be done and look good.  Well it looks great,  but I know that the finish is relatively fragile and I am always on edge about protecting it from stuff like little gas spills, etc.  Next time I absolutely am sticking with a better paint. 
 

I hope my thoughts help.
-fang

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TARKUS512

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2006, 05:49:01 AM »
Thanks fang! That's allot of good info. What kind of stripper did you use. My tank seams to be Bondo free with no dings, big scratches, or rust. I don't think a skim coat will be necessary unless it is standard practice, just to make sure there are no low spots.

Offline Lumbee

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #14 on: June 30, 2006, 07:24:03 AM »
...I followed this to a T...

http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm

...heres a pic...nice shine for about $30 worth of supplies...no very gas friendly though...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/marklocklear/detail?.dir=42ee&.dnm=7bf7.jpg&.src=ph
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Ebrandon

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #15 on: June 30, 2006, 07:50:52 AM »
Is it hard to get the plastic side covers to match exactly? I know that some paints come out with a slightly different shade when applied to different surfaces...

Offline Lumbee

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2006, 08:10:27 AM »
...if the surfaces are prepped the same...with the same primer, then it should not matter what surface is underneath...
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TARKUS512

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2006, 09:15:40 AM »
Thanks Lumbee! I read the whole thing. Sounds like allot of good advice from chuckhawks Harley paint. Did some exploratory sandding and much to my supprise there were two colors over the original paint and more low spots, dings and chips in the layers of paint than I thought.

supersport_CB400F

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2006, 11:25:33 AM »
Is it hard to get the plastic side covers to match exactly? I know that some paints come out with a slightly different shade when applied to different surfaces...

I’m more than happy with the match I obtained on the plastic, the prep and finishing takes time though a nice paint job takes plenty of time...never again I swear  ;D

Offline fang

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #19 on: June 30, 2006, 11:44:18 AM »
Thanks fang! That's allot of good info. What kind of stripper did you use. My tank seams to be Bondo free with no dings, big scratches, or rust. I don't think a skim coat will be necessary unless it is standard practice, just to make sure there are no low spots.
It sounds like you have a nice tank.  That's lucky.

Here's a picture of my **stripper**

I got all that stuff from WalMart



Safety first, that's what I always say....
« Last Edit: June 30, 2006, 11:45:51 AM by fang »
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Offline ProTeal55

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #20 on: June 30, 2006, 01:47:19 PM »
That last pic is killer  ;D
Joe a.k.a ProTeal55 a.k.a JoeyCocks a.k.a Maker of Friends

Offline Noel

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #21 on: June 30, 2006, 10:42:11 PM »
I agree with *almost* everything Fang wrote. I read through the Chuck Hawks FAQ and loosely followed his advice; the changes I made largely coincide with Fang's.

I used Duplicolor rattlecans and ran into the same problems with the clear as he did. And if you read the cans, you'll find that the engine enamel isn't technically compatible with the color coats. After carefully stripping, bondoing, priming, sanding, color coating, and wet sanding with three grits, I allowed it to dry for a week and then hit it with the clear. Instant crinkle. I could have cried. So after redoing the entire process, I hit it with the clear within 30 minutes of the last color coat. Added a total of five coats of clear with ten minutes in between each, then allowed to dry for a week and began the sanding process. Then finished with the Meguire's #7 on a polisher, which really is a wonderful sort of magic.

I did my tank, sidecovers, and front fender. IMO, it is about 97% of a factory finish. The three percent that lacks is lack of depth.

And even with the engine enamel, gas can still damage it. I do the Easy Rider hand-under-the-fuel-nozzle thing to avoid drips, and figure that's the hidden cost of a $50 rattlecan paint job.

Oh, and my only other disagreement with Fang is "I put on about four coats.  The first three were real thin and the last two or three were pretty thick." So I guess the hidden message is to try not to breath too much paint fumes. ;D
'73 CB500

Offline grumburg

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Re: Paintjob from a spraycan
« Reply #22 on: July 01, 2006, 08:25:03 AM »
As any paintjob, it is ALL in the prep work.
I have seen rattlecan jobs that look as good as something that came outta a shop.

For my tank, I took it down to bare metal, bondo'ed the emblem holes up, and then used about two cans of black sandable primer (sanding in-between each coat). Then I sprayed very very light coats of the final paint (low gloss engine enamel) letting each coat setup before spraying the next.
very important not to get runs or "high spots" when using spraypaint. Make sure you stand far enough away when spraying to insure you don't get too much paint in one Particular spot.

Mine came out as good as I could of hoped for the time invested. Not sure about doing something glossy, as I am kinda prone to low gloss stuff now... ;D One of the best bike painters I ever saw used pri-mix rattle cans from a local paint shop. Built several National Champion Whizzer and Cushman scooters. His 3 rules: 1) Don't be afraid to paint it, put it on as heavy as possible. 2)l Know when to quit 3) Painting is 90% preparation, 10% application. height=225]http://www.sohc4.us/gallery/d/5864-2/CBSHOW1.jpg[/img]
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