Topic: Wheel questions!

[ncstatecamp]

In the process of renewing, revamping, updating and upgrading my wheels. The plan is to powdercoat the wheels and new shiny spokes.

I have the retainers out but I am having difficulty removing the bearings.

My current tools are a half inch steel rod and hammer. Starting with the rear wheel I am trying to drive out the bearing from the other side by going past the spacer and butting the steel against the bearing, all the while alternating sides.

Even with all this nothing's budging....
Any ideas please let me hear them?

And is there a different procedure for the front wheel as the hole is smaller? Do I need to remove this retainer too?(finger is point at)

O and on spoking does it matter which side of the rim attaches to the hub? The holes look mirrored to me...

[Harsh]

There is a piece that sits between the bearings.  What worked for me was to take a narrower drift or screwdriver and try and push the center piece off to the side a little bit so that your drift will be able to catch onto the bearing and subsequently be able to drive it out.

[ncstatecamp]

There is a piece that sits between the bearings.  What worked for me was to take a narrower drift or screwdriver and try and push the center piece off to the side a little bit so that your drift will be able to catch onto the bearing and subsequently be able to drive it out.

On the rear wheel I'm doing that and it ain't budging....

[MoMo]

There is a piece that sits between the bearings.  What worked for me was to take a narrower drift or screwdriver and try and push the center piece off to the side a little bit so that your drift will be able to catch onto the bearing and subsequently be able to drive it out.

On the rear wheel I'm doing that and it ain't budging....

Try a little heat on the aluminum as it will expand faster than the metal of the bearing....Larry

[ncstatecamp]

Try a little heat on the aluminum as it will expand faster than the metal of the bearing....Larry

Are there any seals I need to worry about?

[luap]

I would use a brass rod for the rear so you dont screw up number #14 scroll down a bit for the diagram
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36087.0
also remember to straigten out the 3 little teeth on the bearing spacer they seem to get bent pretty easy

[RAFster122s]

You will be replacing any bearing seals when you change the bearings. I haven't done wheel bearings yet and don't have my shop manual handy. Do inner races exist on the hubs? If so, you would be replacing them too, right? Brass drifts are the recommended tool for this job, less likely to mar up things if used correctly.
Harbor Freight carries a large (long) brass drift that is fairly inexpensive if you don't have one.

[ncstatecamp]

You will be replacing any bearing seals when you change the bearings. I haven't done wheel bearings yet and don't have my shop manual handy. Do inner races exist on the hubs? If so, you would be replacing them too, right? Brass drifts are the recommended tool for this job, less likely to mar up things if used correctly.
Harbor Freight carries a large (long) brass drift that is fairly inexpensive if you don't have one.

Closest harbor freight is 3 hours away, but maybe lowes...

I take it aluminum would be to soft?

[ncstatecamp]

You will be replacing any bearing seals when you change the bearings. I haven't done wheel bearings yet and don't have my shop manual handy. Do inner races exist on the hubs? If so, you would be replacing them too, right? Brass drifts are the recommended tool for this job, less likely to mar up things if used correctly.
Harbor Freight carries a large (long) brass drift that is fairly inexpensive if you don't have one.

Good question on the races, though I feel like they may be incorporated to the hub... Or I could be wrong

[fishslayeryo]

There's no races in there, it's all part of the machined hub. Don't see a pic of the retainer out on the front hub, make sure that is out first. I used a big flathead to push the spacer to the side alittle so I could get an edge on the bearing, then used a blow and a metal rod to work it out, didn't have to heat them on front or back to get them out. Good luck!

[flybox1]

I used a big flathead to push the spacer to the side alittle so I could get an edge on the bearing, then used a blow and a metal rod to work it out, didn't have to heat them on front or back to get them out. Good luck!

+1
I picked up a cheap 3pk of drifts at a local hardware store. 
whack'em hard. dont hit your knuckles 

[mcuozzo]

Are you doing this on your workbench?  If so it probably is absorbing a  lot of the force.  Had the same problemo till i put some cardboard down and did it on the cement floor.  Heating it helps also.

Matt

[luap]

Cant remember which side Pretty sure its the retainer side you want to take out first so that way the bearing spacer falls out makes it esier to remove the other side. Also if you do lay it on the cement put the nuts back on the lugs so you dont screw up the threads

[ncstatecamp]

The retainer is definitely out. We've moved up to a 5 pound sledge and After heating the outside and standing on the table whacking the hell out of it, so much so it's bent the steel rod still getting nothing. In need of some more ideas..... Help?

[xruss]

I went to Advance Autoparts and borrowed a bearing puller.  They have a tool loaner program that just requires a deposit. 

[Harsh]

I think the reason you couldn't get the spacer to slide over is because the rod you are using it too big diameter wise.  It just doesn't allow any "wiggle" room. 
I have a set of brass drifts I picked up at Northern Tool.  I used the middle of the three drifts and pushed the spacer over.  I entered on the side without the retaining nut.  I stuck the drift in just far enough to clear the bearing and pushed it off to the side.  It took alittle force, but it moved.  I was then able to put the bigger drift in from the retainer side and knock the bearing out.



Using the tool loaner program is great, but I don't belive the bearing puller they have will fit into the front wheen bearing.  It might work on the rear bearing, but I am not sure.

Where in NC are you located?  You might be close enough to me that I could swing by and help.

[ncstatecamp]

I think the reason you couldn't get the spacer to slide over is because the rod you are using it too big diameter wise.  It just doesn't allow any "wiggle" room. 
I have a set of brass drifts I picked up at Northern Tool.  I used the middle of the three drifts and pushed the spacer over.  I entered on the side without the retaining nut.  I stuck the drift in just far enough to clear the bearing and pushed it off to the side.  It took alittle force, but it moved.  I was then able to put the bigger drift in from the retainer side and knock the bearing out.



Using the tool loaner program is great, but I don't belive the bearing puller they have will fit into the front wheen bearing.  It might work on the rear bearing, but I am not sure.

Where in NC are you located?  You might be close enough to me that I could swing by and help.

Currently in Boone but if I can get my other bike working then I'll be in Raleigh for the gentlemens ride.

I can get the rod on the bearing lip with what seems like room to spare (on the rear atleast) the spacer moves over plenty....

[ncstatecamp]

I went to Advance Autoparts and borrowed a bearing puller.  They have a tool loaner program that just requires a deposit.

I thought of that but what do you hook the puller to? With how tight together the spacer is between the bearings there's nothing to hook on both sides....

[Harsh]

Yah Boone is a bit out of the way for me.

I had the same problem with my bearing puller.  With the spacer in there you don't have anything for the hooks to catch.

[disco]

Mate, the rear wheel contains 3 ball races & 2 retainers. The retainer that you have removed is the one for the sprocket carrier. You've got to remove the sprocket carrier first. I would refit the sprocket (temporarily) & then lever the whole sprocket carrier off. Once this is removed it will reveal the retainer for the wheel bearing. Study the manual particularly the exploded diagram if you're not sure.

[ncstatecamp]

Mate, the rear wheel contains 3 ball races & 2 retainers. The retainer that you have removed is the one for the sprocket carrier. You've got to remove the sprocket carrier first. I would refit the sprocket (temporarily) & then lever the whole sprocket carrier off. Once this is removed it will reveal the retainer for the wheel bearing. Study the manual particularly the exploded diagram if you're not sure.

Are you saying that small center ring is the sprocket carrier, or that I need to remove the section with the 4 bolts?

[fishslayeryo]

good catch disco!

That's it, the sprocket carrier has the 4 bolts on it. If that is still on your rear hub you need to take it off first. Easiest way is to put your old sprocket back on and put on the 4 nutts, put ur knees on both sides of the tires with it flat sprocket facing up and pull on the sprocket up & side to side to work it out. Keep track of that spacer in there, you need it for when u put it back together.

[ncstatecamp]

Well now I feel retarded! Let's hope I didn't fick up anything to badly hammering....

[ncstatecamp]

good catch disco!

That's it, the sprocket carrier has the 4 bolts on it. If that is still on your rear hub you need to take it off first. Easiest way is to put your old sprocket back on and put on the 4 nutts, put ur knees on both sides of the tires with it flat sprocket facing up and pull on the sprocket up & side to side to work it out. Keep track of that spacer in there, you need it for when u put it back together.

Any other methods, as you see the tire and all else is off the hub.... I'm trying to knock it around with a block of wood, but it ain't budging

Edit: are there any spots I need to drill out around the large retainer like on the small center?

[flybox1]

it wont spin!!! it just bangs the inside posts against the cush drives.
you have to pull it straight out/off.
put your sprocket back on.  hold your sprocket and have a buddy hold the hub.
tug o war style....