Topic: Wheel questions!

[Harsh]

Nice catch Disco.  I can't believe I missed that.  Mine was tight as hell and a pain to remove.  I ended up squirting some soapy water in the holes on the brake side.  After playing the tug-o-war game to no avail I ended up sticking the brass drift into the same holes I squirted the water.  If you look in the holes you can see some metal ribs.  You have to balance the hub on the edge of the work bench to allow it room to separate.  A few taps through each hole and it was free.

[disco]

hi NC,
To remove the sprocket carrier hub, refit the sprocket using the 4 nuts. Then find a good strong lump of timber (something like a 4" x 2"). Use the timber to prise the sprocket carrier hub straight up & off. A little bit of spray lube from the brake side first (like WD40) might help. I put the rim down on lawn to protect it from scratches & stand on the rim whilst I lever it off.
Once you get the sprocket carrier off your next challenge is revealed....removing the wheel hub retainer. Good luck!!

[disco]

Hi NC,
I just realised you don't have the rim still attached to the hub. So please ignore my comments about standing on the rim
That will make it considerably more difficult to separate the sproket carrier hub from the wheel hub. It has rubber dampers inside which over time kind of 'vulcanise' the two parts together. Best bet now maybe (as one of the other guys recommended..just can't remember who right now) to try to drift it out from the brake side. Be careful not to damage the drive pegs though.

[ncstatecamp]

Hi NC,
I just realised you don't have the rim still attached to the hub. So please ignore my comments about standing on the rim
That will make it considerably more difficult to separate the sproket carrier hub from the wheel hub. It has rubber dampers inside which over time kind of 'vulcanise' the two parts together. Best bet now maybe (as one of the other guys recommended..just can't remember who right now) to try to drift it out from the brake side. Be careful not to damage the drive pegs though.

O so the whole thing is a friction fit? Not sure if that just made my like harder or easier.... So the essence of it is I need to pop it out rather then spin it?

[Bodi]

yes. There are pins on the back of the sprocket carrier that engage rubber cush drive grommets. But by now the pins have become adhered to the grommets and will take a lot of persuading to come out. I don't recall exactly but I think the grommets are rubber sandwiched between two steel cylinders, one to fit in the hub and a smaller one the pin fits into - and both get corroded onto their mates.

[ncstatecamp]

Eureka!!! Ok well finally got that apart. On to the next!

Just for anybody later with the same questions, though now I realize how retardedly simple it is...

I proped the outer rim between some scrap 2x6, fed a long flat head through the holes on the drum/brake side alternating sides and it just popped right out. Now I'm using the same tool (that rusty block) I made to get the outer retainer out to get the inner out.

[ncstatecamp]

Second round of success!!

I wasn't able to use my tool but opted for just using a drift to spin the inner retainer around, after drilling the holes (almost forgot about them).

On to the front wheel!

Last pic - tools used

[ncstatecamp]

And finally success!!!

Interestingly enough I believe one of my bearings was put in wrong (from factory?). I think this because one of them the grease and balls were showing from the outside, but I could be mistaken and it was supposed to be that way.

For anyone who's having difficulty getting the front bearings out due to space issues and lack of a lip to catch on I made a special "tool" again.

I found a piece bar stock near the diameter of of the hole, ground out the center to 3/4 of the original dimension leaving a bit the original thickness on the end and mushroomed the head. This allowed the head to push the center spacer over and catch under and any lip available.

I did find it easier to hit the non retainers side out first.

On to polish and powdercoating!

[Harsh]

Alright...another success story.  You are correct that the bearing was put in backward.  You are going to get new sealed bearings, correct?  Allballs makes a nice set and they come with new seals for the retainer nuts.

[ncstatecamp]

Alright...another success story.  You are correct that the bearing was put in backward.  You are going to get new sealed bearings, correct?  Allballs makes a nice set and they come with new seals for the retainer nuts.

Yep already got em but I do have a simple question about them.

Obviously put the corresponding size in corresponding hole. My question is does it matter which way they go in? And do I need to grease them or anything or just seat them in evenly?

[Harsh]

You do not need to grease them since the bearings are sealed.  It doesn't matter which way they go in.  If I remember correctly you put in the side with the retainer first since it has a seat.  I then put the retainer in place, but didn't peen it until I was completely done seating the bearings.  Insert the spacer from the open side and then put that sides bearing in.  I used the axle to help keep the spacer aligned and the old bearing on top of the new one to seat it.  You need to be careful when getting close to seating the second bearing.  You don't want the spacer to wobble, but you don't want to seat the bearing too far.  That will cause the bearing to bind on the spacer.

[lucky]

it wont spin!!! it just bangs the inside posts against the cush drives.
you have to pull it straight out/off.
put your sprocket back on.  hold your sprocket and have a buddy hold the hub.
tug o war style....

It does NOT spin around. IT just sits in place between the rubber components.
Looks like you are headed for a disaster.
Start looking at things. GET a manual.
Some of these parts getting beat on are no longer available.
Once they are broken or damaged it is one less CB7500 part
 that can ever be used or repaired.

[fishslayeryo]

Nice! Tip from hondaman.....after you set your first bearing(side without the retainer) you want the spacer btw the bearing so it's just has enough pressure so it doesn't move around....too much will cause your new bearing to wear. If you don't have his book highly recommend it along with the Honda Shop manuals you can download from this site. Good luck man! Go Pack! Graduated from there and bout 20mins from campus.

[ncstatecamp]

Nice! Tip from hondaman.....after you set your first bearing(side without the retainer) you want the spacer btw the bearing so it's just has enough pressure so it doesn't move around....too much will cause your new bearing to wear. If you don't have his book highly recommend it along with the Honda Shop manuals you can download from this site. Good luck man! Go Pack! Graduated from there and bout 20mins from campus.

So are you saying seat it but only lightly?

I printed out like 700 pages of manuals but they are in Cary at the moment (in Boone for school). Are you going to the gentlemens ride?

[ncstatecamp]

You do not need to grease them since the bearings are sealed.  It doesn't matter which way they go in.  If I remember correctly you put in the side with the retainer first since it has a seat.  I then put the retainer in place, but didn't peen it until I was completely done seating the bearings.  Insert the spacer from the open side and then put that sides bearing in.  I used the axle to help keep the spacer aligned and the old bearing on top of the new one to seat it.  You need to be careful when getting close to seating the second bearing.  You don't want the spacer to wobble, but you don't want to seat the bearing too far.  That will cause the bearing to bind on the spacer.

Good tips on using the axel to align it all and using the old bearing to seat them! What i meant about greasing the bearing is to slip them in place.

Essentially  grease the outer ring to help slide it in place, or would freezing be better?

[fishslayeryo]

Nice! Tip from hondaman.....after you set your first bearing(side without the retainer) you want the spacer btw the bearing so it's just has enough pressure so it doesn't move around....too much will cause your new bearing to wear. If you don't have his book highly recommend it along with the Honda Shop manuals you can download from this site. Good luck man! Go Pack! Graduated from there and bout 20mins from campus.

So are you saying seat it but only lightly?

I printed out like 700 pages of manuals but they are in Cary at the moment (in Boone for school). Are you going to the gentlemens ride?

Exactly. If you put too much side pressure on the inner race of the bearing you will wear out your bearings quicker from what I understand. I would do the ride, but I'm down to a frame and engine rt now. Painting the tins this week hopefully...good paint ain't cheap!!!

[ncstatecamp]

Nice! Tip from hondaman.....after you set your first bearing(side without the retainer) you want the spacer btw the bearing so it's just has enough pressure so it doesn't move around....too much will cause your new bearing to wear. If you don't have his book highly recommend it along with the Honda Shop manuals you can download from this site. Good luck man! Go Pack! Graduated from there and bout 20mins from campus.

So are you saying seat it but only lightly?

I printed out like 700 pages of manuals but they are in Cary at the moment (in Boone for school). Are you going to the gentlemens ride?

Exactly. If you put too much side pressure on the inner race of the bearing you will wear out your bearings quicker from what I understand. I would do the ride, but I'm down to a frame and engine rt now. Painting the tins this week hopefully...good paint ain't cheap!!!

I was planning on it but my other bike is having a leaky oil issue at the moment and the seal I need seem to not be stocked in this country.

[Harsh]

Do not put anything on the bearing to aid putting them in.  I have frozen some in the past and not frozen any.  I really didn't notice a difference when it went to installing them.  Just make sure you start them straight and you should be good to go.