Mad,
Keep the stock 17.5 pilots (if you, by chance, wanna try 20's, I have a set). I have the fuel screw intentionally set rich, as I found the bike idled better that way and "hunted" less at partial throttle application. I'm running that 9DZHO3 needle, don't even bother with what comes with it. I brought the main jet down to 122.5, from the supplied 125, and may do so again, as I'm really just now tuning the upper end (didn't feel comfortable reefing on it during the break in period). Thankfully, the main jet and needle jet changes can all be done with the carbs on the bike. The pilot jet is another story, as you gotta pull the bowls.
If you're using the Honda push/pull cable, you're going to have to shorten both cables and install new ends (bought mine from DCC), as well as have tiny quadruple jointed fingers to get them on. The throw is reversed from the stock carbs, and it may make you think in circles. Pay close attention to cable routing; I ran both cables from the throttle, over the top of my headlight, inside the fork, then down the left side, above the tank left hand cushion, outside the triangle closest to the carbs, then to the carbs. This is almost perfect routing for my bar placement, but should've run one cable through the triangle. You should have no binding, you must run both cable, and you cannot make the spring return easier (even though you're gonna want to). Also, just installing the cables will give you fits. To get one of the ferrules to go into the carb housing, while clearing the accelerator pump, I had to drop the #2 float bowl, and remove the accelerator rod. After fitting those carbs to the new insulators, you thought the rest would be easy, right?!?!
Here's a pic of the front routing:
The wideband O2 sensor is a bung welded into my exhaust collector that supplies AFR's at all throttle positions. It cost something like $175, and paid for itself IMHO.
Here's the display, on the right:
Hope to save you some of my headaches!
Seth
