Author Topic: Brief Introduction, and my problem with my 1975 CB550K FIXED! (Read 9649 times)

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #50 on:** October 17, 2012, 06:27:38 AM »

:: Update ::

Carbs are recleaned the right way! The guy who did it previously really didn't do anything at all. Which sucks because I paid 100 bills for it. Anyway during the rebuild, I needed another Jet holder clip, which a gentleman on here hooked me up with for some loot and I found out one of the floats needed replaced. I will know tonight or tomorrow if everything that was done fixed it!! Can't wait to be riding!!

Duanob · « **Reply #51 on:** October 17, 2012, 11:29:59 AM »

I think most of us have been there before thats why we prefer to do most of the work ourselves. Seattle area has a super catty bunch of vintage motorcycle shops. All they do is talk trash about each other but frankly I think they all leave a bit to be desired.

goofy3392 · « **Reply #52 on:** October 17, 2012, 05:13:53 PM »

reminds me of a red green show episode, "why pay someone to do a bad job when you can do it yourself and know". Haha something like that.. but in the end you'll have a better knowledge about your bike and saved some money.
Sent from my LG-VS700 using Tapatalk 2

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #53 on:** October 18, 2012, 06:50:04 AM »

Ok, got the carbs on, synched em, found out the bolts to the carb linkage arms and the arms were loose. Fixed that and eventually got it to rev to about 7-8k then lost it. Seemed like last time all over again! Checked timing when it was running good and was spot on, get it idleing again and its out of time. Took advancer apart, cleaned and lubed it and trying it again tonight. Frustration!!!!

But it will all be worth it in the end

SohcCBs · « **Reply #54 on:** October 18, 2012, 11:20:48 AM »

..sounds like you're fouling the plugs somewhere at mid-range or above, however I'm not familiar with those carbs.

It ran ok when you got it back together, but then crapped out. Something is changing with a little use. If not fouling the plugs, then something else in the carbs is going wrong. I find it difficult to think timing is changing that quickly. The only other possibility is burning the points due to bad condensors.

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #55 on:** October 18, 2012, 01:51:19 PM »

Quote from: SohcCBs on October 18, 2012, 11:20:48 AM

..sounds like you're fouling the plugs somewhere at mid-range or above, however I'm not familiar with those carbs.

It ran ok when you got it back together, but then crapped out. Something is changing with a little use. If not fouling the plugs, then something else in the carbs is going wrong. I find it difficult to think timing is changing that quickly. The only other possibility is burning the points due to bad condensors.

Ahh the condensers...a 80$ part :/ . Is there ay easy way to tell if they are bad?

SohcCBs · « **Reply #56 on:** October 18, 2012, 01:56:42 PM »

Quote from: HeavensSatans on October 18, 2012, 01:51:19 PM

Quote from: SohcCBs on October 18, 2012, 11:20:48 AM
..sounds like you're fouling the plugs somewhere at mid-range or above, however I'm not familiar with those carbs.

It ran ok when you got it back together, but then crapped out. Something is changing with a little use. If not fouling the plugs, then something else in the carbs is going wrong. I find it difficult to think timing is changing that quickly. The only other possibility is burning the points due to bad condensors.

Ahh the condensers...a 80$ part :/ . Is there ay easy way to tell if they are bad?

Usually you'll see burning points or more pitting if that's the problem. It would not explain the issue though if you didn't touch them when you redid the carbs. If all you did was the carbs and it ran well for a short period, then it's a carb issue. Did you check the plugs again right after it ran well for a while, or did you do the points, too, at the same time.

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #57 on:** October 18, 2012, 02:03:41 PM »

Quote from: SohcCBs on October 18, 2012, 01:56:42 PM

Quote from: HeavensSatans on October 18, 2012, 01:51:19 PM
Quote from: SohcCBs on October 18, 2012, 11:20:48 AM
..sounds like you're fouling the plugs somewhere at mid-range or above, however I'm not familiar with those carbs.

It ran ok when you got it back together, but then crapped out. Something is changing with a little use. If not fouling the plugs, then something else in the carbs is going wrong. I find it difficult to think timing is changing that quickly. The only other possibility is burning the points due to bad condensors.

Ahh the condensers...a 80$ part :/ . Is there ay easy way to tell if they are bad?

Usually you'll see burning points or more pitting if that's the problem. It would not explain the issue though if you didn't touch them when you redid the carbs. If all you did was the carbs and it ran well for a short period, then it's a carb issue. Did you check the plugs again right after it ran well for a while, or did you do the points, too, at the same time.

I never got it out of the garage, lol. I just had it running in there. I do know the points are gapped properly, and I sanded them down with fine sandpaper a little to clean them. Doesn't look like pitting on them. Can you describe what a burning point looks like ?

750resurrection · « **Reply #58 on:** October 18, 2012, 02:09:41 PM »

There's a visible gouge of metal out of a point if it's getting hit badly. Your pic shows a totally flat surface. Often the point will have a pit in the center area - sometimes the opposing point builds up a little mound across from the pit.

Sometimes points will wear/burn at an angle, so much so it is easy to detect the tilted circular face that is off kilter on both sides, even if the face remains flat.

Other times you get edge burn off. Less common IMO.

I looked at your pics yesterday they did not look pitted or burned. (maybe the far left half of one set is center pitted, not certain by the pic)

SohcCBs · « **Reply #59 on:** October 18, 2012, 02:10:14 PM »

It's something you can see, but are you saying that you sanded them this time, and it ran good for a bit?

....or it was just the carbs you redid?

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #60 on:** October 18, 2012, 02:14:11 PM »

Quote from: SohcCBs on October 18, 2012, 02:10:14 PM

It's something you can see, but are you saying that you sanded them this time, and it ran good for a bit?

....or it was just the carbs you redid?

Just carbs, sanded the points in the past while troubleshooting the issue. There was a little nip sticking out when I did that, but I have no idea how long it had been since the PO ever did anything to them .

SohcCBs · « **Reply #61 on:** October 18, 2012, 02:21:14 PM »

It seems it must be a carb issue, how 'bout the plugs, did you check them again after it ran good, and then crapped out?

Are they now sooty (rich) or tan (lean)?

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #62 on:** October 18, 2012, 02:24:21 PM »

Ill pull em out when I get home and take a look.

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #63 on:** October 19, 2012, 06:43:05 AM »

Quote from: SohcCBs on October 18, 2012, 02:21:14 PM

It seems it must be a carb issue, how 'bout the plugs, did you check them again after it ran good, and then crapped out?

Are they now sooty (rich) or tan (lean)?

We are doing a test tonight, I am putting the points and condensers of my friends bike (which works fine) onto mine tonight. My buddy Keith thinks after all we have done to this damn thing (carbs, plugs, cam chain, ect) that there is something up with them. And the sad part is this is what he suggested originally. We think we got this narrowed down, and I am praying that this is it. I can get the part in on tues, and I really can't afford not to have a working set of wheels anymore.

I'll keep yinz posted.

SohcCBs · « **Reply #64 on:** October 19, 2012, 08:57:19 AM »

I would clean the plugs before the next start. That way you have a known starting point, then you can check them after and know the result is from the last test.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #65 on:** October 19, 2012, 09:17:35 AM »

When my bike was acting up like that it was a loose connection at the nut that connects the condenser to the points.

It could also just flat out be a bad condenser (even a new one can be bad). Sean Barney had that problem on his 750 last year that we fixed by swapping over a good condenser from my 550.

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #66 on:** October 19, 2012, 09:37:36 AM »

I'll check the plugs, and yer right the condenser could just be plain shot, thats why were doing the switch from my buddys 75 CB750....and hey if worse comes to worse, I found a 81 Cm400 I can get for cheap. This has been a rough month. No transport, switched jobs, and my last job refused to give me my last paycheck, urgh!

InTheStreet · « **Reply #67 on:** October 19, 2012, 03:43:27 PM »

You said that the problem is less pronounced when you have the lights turned off; how old is your battery? I tried to milk every last minute of life out of mine, and I got to ride it around running like crap for a few hundred miles. Bad at idle, weird at high RPM.

InTheStreet · « **Reply #68 on:** October 19, 2012, 03:46:27 PM »

Also, $3 multimeter was usually as accurate as my classmates' $500 Flukes back when I went to school. 7 years later, it still works, despite my complete disrespect for it.

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #69 on:** October 19, 2012, 03:46:46 PM »

Quote from: InTheStreet on October 19, 2012, 03:43:27 PM

You said that the problem is less pronounced when you have the lights turned off; how old is your battery? I tried to milk every last minute of life out of mine, and I got to ride it around running like crap for a few hundred miles. Bad at idle, weird at high RPM.

Other way around, Bad with lights off, better with lights on.

HeavensSatans · « **Reply #70 on:** October 19, 2012, 03:48:00 PM »

And the battery wasn't new, got it on craigs list, but it wasn't in bad shape either.

Duanob · « **Reply #71 on:** October 19, 2012, 03:56:17 PM »

Quote from: HeavensSatans on October 19, 2012, 03:48:00 PM

And the battery wasn't new, got it on craigs list, but it wasn't in bad shape either.

How do you know? They can look great with a bit of cleaning but if it doesn't hold a charge then its crap and could possibly be the cause of some of your problems. If the battery doesn't hold a good enough charge on these bikes it won't run right. I've had a couple of batteries I bought brand new only last less than a year. My current NAPA battery seems to be lasting longer and holding a better charge than my previous two Yuasas.

bollingball · « **Reply #72 on:** October 19, 2012, 04:05:01 PM »

Ahh the condensers...a 80$ part :/ . Is there ay easy way to tell if they are bad?

The old school way to check a condenser is to charge it up.Put the can or body on the neg. side of a 12v battery and then put the lead on the pos. side with a jumper for 1 or 2 seconds take it off count to 3 then touch the lead to the can it should spark showing it held a charge. Not high tec but it works.
Ken
PS If you can find one for 80 cent let me know where.

SohcCBs · « **Reply #73 on:** October 19, 2012, 04:07:59 PM »

It's certainly not a bad idea to check the battery, when running you should be getting 'round 14.5. I'm not sure about that voltage, but your $3 meter could tell you if your alternator is operating. It probably kicks in around 2000 rpms (a guess).

...but I would stick to your train of thought...lest you get too much. It's important to stick with one or two ideas until the prove out, or not.

Killer Canary · « **Reply #74 on:** October 19, 2012, 04:33:22 PM »

Check to see if the yellow leads coming out of the condensers show bare wire at the black rubber cap on the end of the condenser.

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Author Topic: Brief Introduction, and my problem with my 1975 CB550K FIXED! (Read 9649 times)

bollingball