Topic: Endless chain woes

[fmctm1sw]

So I have a friends bike in the garage for some work.  The battery would drain overnight and after I let it sit all day, it wouldn't start the bike.  It had 12.25 volts on it and when I cranked it, it dropped to about 6 volts   So I figure the battery is toast.  But now the fun part.  The chain makes a grinding noise while riding.  I saw it was way too loose.  Upon trying to tighten it, I found real tight spots in the chain making it impossible to adjust properly.  So my idea was too take the chain off and measure it (it's stretched perhaps?).  And..  NO master link    So assuming I have to replace the chain, what is the most cost effective way to do this?  I don't want to have to buy a $70 chain breaker for just one job.  Or maybe I don't have a choice?  Can I dremel the rivets out and get a chain with a master link?

96 rebel btw

[City Boy]

Hi.To remove the existing chain you could grind the heads off of the pins and push the link apart to remove the chain.Leave it attached so you can attach the new chain to it and wind it onto the engine sprocket.Now,you can purchase chains with master links though most of the more expensive chains are only offerred with rivet links.  Rock On

[dhall57]

Got my chain breaker at HF last year on sale for under $10 bucks. Just used it again last week when I took a few links out of the new chain for my KO. Works great!!

[BobbyR]

I am nit sure about the Rebel. If the old chain is shot, grind off the rivets and hammer out the pins. Master link chains are very strong, and a link needs to be pressed on. A bad peening job is weaker than a nice strong clip.

[754]

 Go therefore the rear sprocket, attention back try lifting chain off the sprocket. Now compare this tobacco good one..easy.
 Don't measure chains, count links, then compare to what it should have ( providing it is stock )

[MCRider]

You have the dreaded tightsy/loosey chain. This occurs from uneven lubrication. Part of the chain "stretches" (actually, its wear in the pin/bushing area, the bushing wears in an oval. The chain appears to have gotten longer or "stretched") more than another part of the chain. There is no cure except replacement.

Grind off a link and replace with a chain that has a clip type link, as you suggest,  is the easist route. A clip type link is as much as a Rebel deserves. 

[mono]

Go therefore the rear sprocket, attention back try lifting chain off the sprocket. Now compare this tobacco good one..easy.
 Don't measure chains, count links, then compare to what it should have ( providing it is stock )

seriously, i think my brain just exploded.   

[fmctm1sw]

Thanks guys.  It reminded me that I posted a picture of some stretched chains I had a while back:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=91939.0;attach=154389;image  I'm going to cut it off and pick up 120 link chain locally and cut it down (counting twice and cutting once).  And yeah, what's a 250 Rebel doing with a completely riveted chain    I looked at those HF ones, looks like it just for taking rivets out.  Sorry for the spelling in the first post, I have to use an old laptop at home and I can type "ahead" of it.   

[754]

 I will make it easy..er.
 Pull chain away from sprocket at middle of sprocket
 If one is much looser it has lots of wear. Good chain will barely move.

[LesterPiglet]

Go therefore the rear sprocket, attention back try lifting chain off the sprocket. Now compare this tobacco good one..easy.
 Don't measure chains, count links, then compare to what it should have ( providing it is stock )

Give me some of what you're smoking.

[fmctm1sw]

I will make it easy..er.
 Pull chain away from sprocket at middle of sprocket
 If one is much looser it has lots of wear. Good chain will barely move.

Noted.  I got it the first time (sort of .  I cut the old chain off with a hacksaw and used a bench grinder to cut the new chain off at the 109th link.  Worked perfectly and no tight spots. 

[MCRider]

I will make it easy..er.
 Pull chain away from sprocket at middle of sprocket
 If one is much looser it has lots of wear. Good chain will barely move.

Noted.  I got it the first time (sort of .  I cut the old chain off with a hacksaw and used a bench grinder to cut the new chain off at the 109th link.  Worked perfectly and no tight spots.

Pullling the chain away from the sprocket OR tightsy/loosey are both good tests. But if you fail either one its new chain time.

The full test of pulling the chain away from the sprocket includes pushing up on the bottom row of the chain to remove all slack. Otherwise you won't get as good of a reading.
Now that you have a new chain you can pull it away from the sprocket to see how snug a new chain wraps the sprocket.

Also you'll want to endeavor to lube the chain evenly, to prevent premature tightsy loosy. It will happen eventually though.

The first chain was likely an ORIng chain? If so it must have had some ORings fail from age/drying out.

[754]

 Seriously, you guys can't understand this.
 It has ZERO to do with slack, nor tight and loose.
 Towards the rear of bike the sprocket and chain are only pulling. Or pushing The top and bottom.
 If you grip the chain in between those points and can pull it off say 5/16inch or more..its worn...simple...and gearing changes don't even enter the equation..

[MCRider]

Seriously, you guys can't understand this.
 It has ZERO to do with slack, nor tight and loose.
 Towards the rear of bike the sprocket and chain are only pulling. Or pushing The top and bottom.
 If you grip the chain in between those points and can pull it off say 5/16inch or more..its worn...simple...and gearing changes don't even enter the equation..

In my opinion... if you push up on the bottom row of the chain, removing the slack, then take your reading at 3:00 o'clock on the sprocket, then do it that way every time in the future you will get a more consistent and meanigful read.

But as far as these threads go, they're mostly all shot anyway.