Scottly,
The air kill assembly is pneumatically actuated with a Cherry micro switch on top. Its a 2 way switch with a common in, and a n.c. and a n.o. terminal on the opposite side. The shift system is electric over air. That is, you activate it via a momentary push button that sends 12 volts to a pneumatic switching valve. The outlet of that valve is tee 'd with one air line going to the air kill assembly. The common is grounded, I use the no terminal which is wired into my MSD box to momentarily kill the ignition just long enough to unload the granny for the full throttle shift. The other air line from the switching valve goes to the pneumatic shift cylinder that's attached to a tab welded on the foot shifter. I'm using the "pull" side to up shift the bike. The issue with the newer style electric air kill is where the micro switch screws into the air plunger, there's a collar made around that will not allow it to be screwed in further which would normally prolong the kill time. You can manipulate the sequence between the shifter moving and the engine killing by increasing air line length to the air cylinder. Now, the MPS electronic kill box has a pot screw that allows you to adjust the length of kill time up or down in milliseconds to better suit your transmission efficiency or inadequacy. Its gets it input from the shift button also.
One thing to mention here is my transmission was NOT originally undercut when i first built the bike in 97'. The air shifter worked perfectly with the stock transmission until it started randomly jumping out of 3rd gear about 4 years ago. I parked the bike for a while and when Sam and Bill started messing with the auto, i dusted the bike off so i could support the SOHC team. Of course as i raced it more, the problem got worse so i parked it again. I decided to pull the engine to freshen it up and fix the transmission via and undercut job. I started lightening up the bike also by putting the lighter weight wheels and brakes on the bike. I got it back up in time for the last Cup race in Bradenton to hang with Sam and the fellas. Issues with it jumping out of gear reappeared even with the undercut and i had problems with the new street tire hooking. I parked it again when i got home out of frustration. In the later part of this year, i pulled the engine again and split the cases to find out i had a bad shift drum, and bent forks although i did put good forks in with the cut tranny. I replaced the bad components along with replacement of the air shifter parts and when i tested the bike during a race, it did okay. My next outing it started either not going in gear, or jumping out. I electronicall checked to see if the air shifter was killing the ignition and it was working just fine. So...... its off again. I'm going to split the cases next week and see what i find. The only parts i didn't replace is the shift pawls. That will be my focus this time among other things. I'm going to look carefully at the cut gears and if i don't see a problem, i may still put another stock transmission in the bike to test it out. One freaking way or the other, i will get it to shift right before the Cup race in November.
Keep the input coming.
