By the way you are going PeWe, I don't think you'll ever be happy with the settings. There will always be some area that just isn't right and could be better. Hopefully you are still enjoying the chase!!
Ha-ha....Yes these take time.
I lost time when I did not realize how important the long test run is to verify everything when really warm and I trusted that the carbs had correct needle jet.
I think the engine pulled better when giving the throttle with larger pilots (17.5), but too rich idle.... compensate by opening airscrews cause too lean when releasing the throttle in low speeed. too rich and too lean at the same time
Increase mains above 130? I have some in 2.5 incr to 145.... My last test runs were in total darkness and rain... other meeting car lights do not increase the sight either.... shifted to 4:th gear at 9000rpm, to 5:th gear at 8000rpm
I'll might give air jet 1.1 another try, again...Easy to change them. I use sticky rubber stick and fish them out when I had opened them with a screwdriver.
I hope my local tuner has 1.0 at the shelf and try that first.
No stumble at low lift is very important for relaxed and smooth driving.
Most important with these carbs is to replace the x-screws with allen heads so its possible to remove top cover and float bowls when carbs are mounted on engine (I did that back in the days as first measure when I had those screws free at my job). Remove/mount carbs every week will cause carb boots leak.
I changed the needles 3 times and test drive each time last sunday. I do all 4 in 20 minutes with tank back on.
Remove float bowls, change pilots, needle jets + switching mains + air jets 1 hour...My finger do it without any eyes finding the holes or jets. I'm worried that threads on carbs will give up, especially needle jet threads in carb body.
Mikuni TMR 32mm as plan B.
I need more encouragement to shop soon..like "I changed to TMR's on my CB750 836 with ported head and cam, got 10hp more!"
