Topic: HELP - how the $#%^@# do I remove a CB750K 1977 Valve Cover?

[smithrelo]

Your forgiven!

Can't wait to see what else happens with this project! (I need photos, as I've not had the pleasure of "supervising" engine pulls!

Linda

[cben750f0]

smithi, i think you would need a decent set of ear muffs if you going to watch some engine pulling, ieither that or get a lesson in the old mother english!!! ... cos i can tell you i watch my mech and his partner with the 750 one day... was funny yes... educational.. yes.... but bloody 'ell i havent heard that sort of word play since i left school ....peace

[bryanj]

Oh the memories! It was always fun in the shop i worked watching those in the know take time of "sick" when certain bikes came in the door!( I was in front if a Hardly Abletoo got within 5 miles) take a small bit of advice and change EVERYTHING that might be worn whilst its out--ESPECIALLY the cam chain and ANY tensioners that look in the slightest bit worn-- Never re-torqued a Honda in my life, just done it to book and never had a gasket failure until at least 2 years after, that includes with "pattern " gaskets make sure all the nuts/bolts run free and you have all the correct washers CLEAN in the right places

[kghost]

I'd rather do an ebgine pull on a 750 than a really shot set of early Goldwing carbs. If they show up I run screaming from the room.

[chundy]

Ok boys, and apparently some girls.  The F'n engine is out.  I'm 6'2 I weigh 320 pounds and can lift the bike off the ground myself.  However getting that piss ant engine from the frame was the hardest thing I've done in a while.  I am off the the Aluminum welders this weekend, turns out my issue was with the headers.  The thread that holds the flange bolts in place is broken clear off, son of a.  So I am off to get it built back up by a welder, re-tapped and I should be golden.  Oh yeah TinTin sheared a bolt off on me as well when we were yanking the headers off, so I'll get that drilled.  Now what can anyone suggest is the bolt off choice for holding the flanges onto the head?  Steel, Aluminum? 

 As a side note it took me and 2 buddies to convince that engine to get out of the frame.  By the By, I have been polishing my aluminum for 24hrs now and the pieces look like mirrors, sweet.

[Lumbee]

...yep lots of work to get it out..but its a heck of lot easier to clean the bastard that way!   

[Terry in Australia]

Mild steel or stainless will be fine, just make sure you use some anti-sieze compound (copper grease) to stop electrolysis (nothing to do with unwanted hair removal Linda from setting in and welding steel bolts into aluminum castings.

Ask anyone who's tried to rebuild an old Suzuki GT750 "Water Buffalo" engine or remove the exhaust bolts on a Suzuki GS750/1000 what I'm talking about. Cheers, Terry.

[Tim.]

Ok boys, and apparently some girls.  The F'n engine is out.  I'm 6'2 I weigh 320 pounds and can lift the bike off the ground myself.  However getting that piss ant engine from the frame was the hardest thing I've done in a while.  I am off the the Aluminum welders this weekend, turns out my issue was with the headers.  The thread that holds the flange bolts in place is broken clear off, son of a.  So I am off to get it built back up by a welder, re-tapped and I should be golden.  Oh yeah TinTin sheared a bolt off on me as well when we were yanking the headers off, so I'll get that drilled.  Now what can anyone suggest is the bolt off choice for holding the flanges onto the head?  Steel, Aluminum? 

 As a side note it took me and 2 buddies to convince that engine to get out of the frame.  By the By, I have been polishing my aluminum for 24hrs now and the pieces look like mirrors, sweet.

Just to clear something up - yes, I sheared a bolt head off.  But it's not like I was using a breaker bar to take the bolt out 

And, to make sure my reputation is well solidified among the rank and file here, I didn't get suckered into helping extract the engine.  I'm far too intelligent for that.  I'll stick to pointing my finger in the direction the engine should go.

[Tim.]

Glad the engines out! it was great reading the saga, I would choose a stainless steel bolt above an aluminium one. I have no idea what the bolt is your talking about but I would still use SS, my 400 exhaust is clamped on studs the stick out from the block but the 750 must bolt on, sounds a much better method. thanks for the smiles I owe you a pint!

Along with Honda's brilliant design that encourages total engine rebuilds whenever a gasket needs to be replaced  , they also did a bang-up job on the exhaust header / cylinder head mounting design.  I hope the guy who designed all this stuff is dead.

On the 750 (and considering this is a 1977 model we're talking about, in 8 years they never sorted this out) there is an intermediary piece of hardward between the header pipe and the engine.  See the attached diagram.  These 'Exhaust Flanges' as referenced in the parts manual bolt onto the engine with two bolts that thread into the cylinder head.  No factory mounted studs.  Then, the headers clamp down onto these iron flanges.  No finicky little shims etc. to push the header into the cylinder head like on the smaller bikes.

I can appreciate the idea behind this design.  Theoretically these flanges should never come off the bike, and you should never have to replace the copper gaskets between the flanges and the cylinder head.  I suppose it isn't soooo bad but when chunks of your cylinder head go missing, this sure seems dumb.

[MRieck]

...yep the 750 mill is about 2 bills.  I heard a guy say he has removed and put the motor back in by himself.  I call BS...what do you guys think?

I removed one solo  once. Putting it back in requires 2 people. Just for the record my wife has helped me install engines in an FJ1200, a 900RR and several CBR-600's. I wrap the frame rails with linoleum as it is thin but tough. Remove cam cover breather cap and ,more importantly,the exhaust studs!!!- it makes the installation a 100% easier.