Author Topic: CB550 revamp (Read 22539 times)

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #50 on:** May 02, 2013, 09:55:13 AM »

Well, got the head machined for the external lines and got it on the bike today. I made sure to blow out all the oil passages backwards and forwards about a dozen times to make sure I didn't miss anything before I put it on. The head still isn't torqued down, just hand tightened snug so I could get the cam in and get the cam gear and chain on. That's about as far as I got but couldn't help myself and put the top covers on just so I could visualize it. Nothing above the head is tight since I want to be sure about the proper orientation of the cam compared to where the crank is before I button it up. Hoping to get back to it next week!

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #51 on:** May 02, 2013, 09:56:29 AM »

Then I saw this bike parked outside...stared at it a while, then went back inside. LOL

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #52 on:** May 06, 2013, 04:34:20 PM »

Ugh, got my new torque wrench in and started torquing the cylinder bolts. When I was taking this whole thing apart at the beginning, I had 1 stud frozen and had my machinist remove it for me. He managed to get it out but some of the threads in the case were toast. He suggested I might need a helicoil but we decided to bolt it up and see before taking that step. Well, after torquing the bolts to about 5 ft.lbs, the remaining threads in that 1 hole, decided they were done. I heard a snap and the bolt spun. Luckily, the bolt itself is ok, I just have to get a helicoil kit to repair the thread since I don't really want to pull the engine out of the frame now. I know the thread is M8, does anyone know the pitch off the top of their head?

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #53 on:** May 06, 2013, 10:26:34 PM »

So I'm reading that the thread is M8x1.25. Should I just go ahead and helicoil all of them while I'm at it or is that overkill? I'd rather not have to disassemble this thing again...at least for a while. Also, should I be using anti-seize for the bolts?

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #54 on:** May 15, 2013, 05:08:07 PM »

Just ordered a new rectifier and regulator from http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/SOHCfours.html. Should get here next week.

Also ordered a pair of Works Performance DRS shocks to replace the OEM pieces. Should see those in a few weeks.

Did more research on the harness controllers. The Thunderheart unit seems to be popular with Harley bikes. I can't imagine that would be much different from the Motogadget unit except for the M-unit has more flashy lights etc. I emailed Thunderheart to make sure their product is made in 'Merica, which it is indeed. I think that's the way I'm going to go unless I find a reason not to in the next week or so. I do love that they include all the necessary wires with their kit. Probably scrapping the old harness since it's been spliced a bunch of times already. If anyone wants it, let me know.

Next on the list is the Battery. Anyone have suggestions? Looking at the Antigravity 8-cell Lithium battery. Any reason not to?

While I'm writing about electrics, anyone have a suggestion for plugs? The bike is essentially a 650 with a hondaman transistorized ignition. The stock plugs on the 650 were DE8 I think...should I start with the same?

Lots of questions and not much progress!

streak09 · « **Reply #55 on:** May 15, 2013, 07:55:33 PM »

Bike is looking great! Ive been quietly following along

. Ive been looking at the shorai batteries. Im not near as far along as you are, but ive been trying to look ahead and been debating the battery thing too. http://www.shoraipower.com/Products/batteries/LFX09L2-BS12.html <--- This is the one I was checking out. A bit less expensive than the Antigravity but may be slightly bigger. Just thought I would throw it out there for you.

Im interested in seeing those shocks too! How were the prices on those compared to others and which did you get, If you don't mind me asking?

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #56 on:** May 15, 2013, 08:13:57 PM »

I got the DRS steel trackers from Works Performance. I'm a big fan of stuff that's serviceable and made in the US. Pricing was a bit more than Progressives but not Ohlins money. They're made to order here in California and valved for each application. I figured I'd already be spending at least $300 for a set of the Progressives and they're not tunable or rebuildable like the Works product is. They do take about 3-4 weeks to get though.

As far as the battery, I believe Antigravity is also made stateside and they claim to be completely watertight. Their cell structure is also supposed to generate more cold cranking amps so it's easier to start bigger engines. Since I'm already going a bit overboard with this bike, I figured I should probably get a battery with as much CCA as possible but also be as small as possible. It help me choose when my local Honda shop expressed some frustration with the Shorai batteries they've come across. Something about vibration killing them, but that's someone else's experience, not mine.

I'll post pics of all the parts as they come in. I'm just now waiting to hear back from the fine folks at Thunderheart regarding which harness controller they would recommend for my project.

streak09 · « **Reply #57 on:** May 15, 2013, 08:19:39 PM »

Sounds like you've done your research!

Very good points on both, Ill have to look further into the antigravity, are you planing on using the starter, or are you going kick only?

Engine looks fantastic by the way, I hope mine ends up half as good as yours

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #58 on:** May 15, 2013, 08:23:01 PM »

I'd like to be as manly as possible and say I'm using kickstart only, but there are many moments when I just want to push a button and see it go! I'm actually thinking of the kickstart as a very nice to have backup in case I've killed the battery...something which is not completely unknown to me.

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #59 on:** May 18, 2013, 08:10:49 PM »

And...Crap. After putting in a Helicoil to repair the stripped thread in the upper case then reassembling, I managed to snap a cylinder bolt. I promptly put the torque wrench down (was only set to 5 ft./lbs. and hadn't even clicked yet), loosened all the bolts, covered it all up and walked away. It's been a very long time since I've snapped a bolt, I can only hope it's not too hard to remove it from the case now.

Does anyone know of alternatives to the stock 650 bolts? I know APE makes some heavy duty studs with similar torque specs but I'm not sure about their fitment on the 650. Or, since I was reusing the original bolts, does anyone know of a source for new ones?

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #60 on:** May 18, 2013, 08:55:18 PM »

Looked around the forum and found a post regarding using Alum in water to disolve ferous parts out of aluminum without harming the aluminum. Gonna give this a try this week. Good part of having these problems, I'm getting really good at getting the pistons/rings into the cylinders and getting them on the crank with the pins. Win some and lose some I guess. Love this forum!

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #61 on:** May 20, 2013, 11:46:34 AM »

After exchanging some emails with the good folks at Thunder Heart about their harness controller, they weren't fully confident on how well their controller would work with the Honda's setup. That being said, the BMW service shop across the street from my workshop were able to order me a Motogadget M-Unit for a very good price (I bring them coffee beans every now and then to grease the wheels a little). They also said they could supply me some bulk wire for the wiring job when the time comes so I won't have to order entire spools and have a bunch just sitting around. Also have a set of replacement cylinder bolts coming from forum member Tom Witt and picked up a fresh M8 tap to make sure the threads are indeed clean as I suspect there was some debris in the threads while I was tightening down the head. The fun never ends!

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #62 on:** May 22, 2013, 11:17:15 PM »

Got the broken bolt out, actually spun right out without any drama. Re-chased all the threads and cleaned the surfaces before putting on a new gasket and reassembly.

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #63 on:** May 22, 2013, 11:18:20 PM »

My Oregon rectifier and regulator arrived!

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #64 on:** May 29, 2013, 12:14:23 PM »

More new stuff! Shocks and the M-unit arrived today!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #65 on:** May 29, 2013, 12:43:32 PM »

Pretty shiny bits...
Those Works shocks look very nice.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #66 on:** May 29, 2013, 07:57:33 PM »

Those shocks are sharp. What did they set you back - if you don't mind me asking - and where'd you get them?

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #67 on:** May 29, 2013, 08:03:10 PM »

Shocks are from Works Performance. Cost about $500-600 depending on how fancy you get. They're made in USA to your specs and are fully rebuildable.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #68 on:** May 29, 2013, 08:06:40 PM »

Quote from: spdygnzlz on May 29, 2013, 08:03:10 PM

Shocks are from Works Performance. Cost about $500-600 depending on how fancy you get. They're made in USA to your specs and are fully rebuildable.

Thanks. I was wondering if you got them from WP or a vendor.

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #69 on:** May 29, 2013, 08:13:00 PM »

OK, just broke another bolt, my problem is I can't remember if it's the same one as before. It's one of the 2 longer bolts and I'm not wondering if the bolt needs to be shortened or if the plating process somehow made the bolts brittle. The break is at about the same spot, 3/4 up the threaded section, each time. I have an extra set of used bolts that weren't replated, but I'm now pretty nervous about it. I'm not hamfisting this either. I'm following the prescribed tightening order and using a torque wrench only set to 5 ft/lbs to get started and not even getting to that setting. I've chased the threads out with a fresh M8 bottoming tap to get a few more extra threads and using ARP Ultra-Torque thread prep. Wondering if I should just start looking for an alternative...

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #70 on:** May 29, 2013, 08:13:55 PM »

Got them direct. They were having a promo for $100 off or something like that so I couldn't resist.

theofam · « **Reply #71 on:** May 30, 2013, 03:22:32 PM »

Is it possible your torque wrench is faulty? I had a dial-and-click torque wrench that snapped a bolt after not hearing/feeling the click. I went back to my old, simple, swinging-pointer (official name) torque wrench and haven't had another torque-related issue.

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #72 on:** May 30, 2013, 09:30:42 PM »

Not sure how accurate my old beam type torque wrench is but I did check the new wrench against it today. I don't think the old style torque wrenches ever go out of adjustment...nothing to adjust! It's just not as precise as I would like. The older wrench measured the torque on the bolts at 20 ft.lbs., some were actually higher so I loosed it all back up and retightened. The new wrench never clicked there so it looks like the new wrench may not be working properly. I'm going to box it back up and send it back. Kinda annoyed about breaking 2 bolts though and having to buy another set because of it but I suppose it's all part of the process.

Good thing is once I got that done, parts started going on quickly. I have most of the top end back on now and starting to plan my electrical and ignition wiring.

Can't wait to get this thing going!

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #73 on:** May 31, 2013, 08:47:51 AM »

Accuracy below 25 ft-lbs can be iffy on a basic torque wrench.

I have an inch-lb calibrated wrench that I use when the required torque is a low number.

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #74 on:** June 13, 2013, 11:26:24 AM »

Anyone have a source or maybe even have a clutch cover gasket to spare? I don't want to buy a whole kit just for 1 gasket... Otherwise, if I have to, what's the thickness of the gasket so I can make my own from a roll of gasket paper?

Thanks!

-e.

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Author Topic: CB550 revamp (Read 22539 times)