Author Topic: Listen to my engine, what would you do/start with ? (Read 5198 times)

Viktor.J · « **on:** October 25, 2012, 04:04:31 AM »

Hi !

I bought this bike a couple of months ago and since I didn't take the driver license or have a garage near, i haven't had much time tuning it.
But now the winter is approaching and i will have plenty of time..

Can you guys please listen to the motor, how does it sound and what would you check first ?
IMO it doesn't sound that good, so hit me

MVI 3704

(There are more videos on my youtube account)

My plan is to tear down the carbs, clean them up and then properly tuned
Tension the cam chain
Trying to check the timing ?

So tell me, what would you do and where would you START !

Kindly regards
Viktor.J

cb650 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 25, 2012, 04:33:06 AM »

Thats what a 650 sounds like when the cam chain tensioner is in wrong. Many of them on utube too.

Viktor.J · « **Reply #2 on:** October 25, 2012, 04:35:57 AM »

Thats why I want "real" input. Just beacuse i find a video on the tube of a bike with a "bad cam tension" -headline doesn't have to mean thats the problem.
I've also found "bad synced" carbs videos who also sounds like this.. thats why my questions, and what to start with ? I guess, the carbs last ?

BTW its a CB750 K2

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #3 on:** October 25, 2012, 04:54:49 AM »

To start with do you have a manual?

Do what they cal a 3000 mile tune up (I don't know how many Km that would equal)
Oil/Filter change
Set Timing
Adjust valve tappets
Adjust cam chain

A varied list of general maintenance items to be accomplished!!
The noise on your bike does sound like cam chain and it's very easy to adjust.

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

Viktor.J · « **Reply #4 on:** October 25, 2012, 05:08:21 AM »

Quote from: Xnavylfr on October 25, 2012, 04:54:49 AM

To start with do you have a manual?
Do what they cal a 3000 mile tune up (I don't know how many Km that would equal)
Oil/Filter change
Set Timing
Adjust valve tappets
Adjust cam chain

A varied list of general maintenance items to be accomplished!!
The noise on your bike does sound like cam chain and it's very easy to adjust.

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

I Have the "owner workshops" manual, clymer or something like that ( I don't have the book here now), I hope that will do good

But as you said, a big service would probably do good. It runs good and smooth now, but I wannted to make sure that the noise wouldn't make any major damage !

flybox1 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 25, 2012, 09:45:06 AM »

Dont forget new plugs(gapped) and a good, clean air filter.
check your plug caps for resistance, or just get new caps.
Cut back the wires +/- .5cm so good wire is showing.
Carb sync comes last, only after you've done the items listed by Xnavylfr.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #6 on:** October 25, 2012, 02:30:45 PM »

Carbs need synced. Primary chain is slapping.

cb650 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 25, 2012, 02:36:19 PM »

Quote from: Viktor.J on October 25, 2012, 04:35:57 AM

Thats why I want "real" input. Just beacuse i find a video on the tube of a bike with a "bad cam tension" -headline doesn't have to mean thats the problem.
I've also found "bad synced" carbs videos who also sounds like this.. thats why my questions, and what to start with ? I guess, the carbs last ?

BTW its a CB750 K2

OK sorry I didnt have any "real" input. Yes plenty on utube but I have repaired a few with this problem. Sorry again wont bother you with my drivel anymore.

Viktor.J · « **Reply #8 on:** October 26, 2012, 12:35:15 AM »

Quote from: cb650 on October 25, 2012, 02:36:19 PM

Quote from: Viktor.J on October 25, 2012, 04:35:57 AM
Thats why I want "real" input. Just beacuse i find a video on the tube of a bike with a "bad cam tension" -headline doesn't have to mean thats the problem.
I've also found "bad synced" carbs videos who also sounds like this.. thats why my questions, and what to start with ? I guess, the carbs last ?

BTW its a CB750 K2
OK sorry I didnt have any "real" input. Yes plenty on utube but I have repaired a few with this problem. Sorry again wont bother you with my drivel anymore.

What i ment is thats why i asked you guys here. Because YOU have "real" more valid input rather then a youtube video filming i dont know what. For all that mathers I could drive around with a flat tire and list it as "un synched" carbs, and if someone is dumb enough...... thats what he thinks causes the problem...

Viktor.J · « **Reply #9 on:** October 26, 2012, 12:36:09 AM »

All 4 plugs are new, air filter is clean

dave500 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 26, 2012, 01:15:53 AM »

im with lester,you havent had the bike long and any guy could have been making any "adjustments"its already been posted to go over the scheduled service items,,be sure the ignition is as new then have those carbs synced,im sure itll mostly go away,,these bikes wernt exactly quite when new either but quieter than older english rattlers,,the quality of audio on any of these sound posts always makes things sound worse anyway?

Viktor.J · « **Reply #11 on:** October 26, 2012, 01:26:38 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on October 26, 2012, 01:15:53 AM

im with lester,you havent had the bike long and any guy could have been making any "adjustments"its already been posted to go over the scheduled service items,,be sure the ignition is as new then have those carbs synced,im sure itll mostly go away,,these bikes wernt exactly quite when new either but quieter than older english rattlers,,the quality of audio on any of these sound posts always makes things sound worse anyway?

Yeah im going to go over the service schedule and hopfully most of the sound dissapers !
Im aware of that they were quite loud but this sounds "to loud", like draining the exhoust sound

Thanks for the input guys !

dave500 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 26, 2012, 01:31:05 AM »

if you havent really run it long enough to get fully hot and ridden it that might also be an issue?if your only starting it up and sort of getting it warm and letting it idle that might just be your problem?have you ridden the bike yet?even ones that are in good condition and tuned and set correctly sound better at idle once they have actually been ridden quite some while and fully hot,if youve never had a car without fuel injection and never had to "feather"the throttle on a cold engine that has a manual choke to start it i must remind you these wont just start up and idle anywhere near like you might be used to?you have good english by the way!

Viktor.J · « **Reply #13 on:** October 26, 2012, 01:37:58 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on October 26, 2012, 01:31:05 AM

if you havent really run it long enough to get fully hot and ridden it that might also be an issue?if your only starting it up and sort of getting it warm and letting it idle that might just be your problem?have you ridden the bike yet?even ones that are in good condition and tuned and set correctly sound better at idle once they have actually been ridden quite some while and fully hot,if youve never had a car without fuel injection and never had to "feather"the throttle on a cold engine that has a manual choke to start it i must remind you these wont just start up and idle anywhere near like you might be used to?you have good english by the way!

I've ridden it for about 40-50 Km around 80 km/h hopfully it was warm after that

same noise even if it was a little bit more silent.

dave500 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 26, 2012, 01:43:44 AM »

oh ok,,that should be warm/hot enough then.

dave500 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 26, 2012, 05:36:56 AM »

what you drinking ken?i want some,,looks like our swedish friend has a good old 750 four my boy?

bollingball · « **Reply #16 on:** October 26, 2012, 06:02:53 AM »

Quote from: cb650 on October 25, 2012, 04:33:06 AM

Thats what a 650 sounds like when the cam chain tensioner is in wrong. Many of them on utube too.

This threw me off Dave Just coffee maybe time to change

I will delete and start over sorry Victor

BTW its a CB750 K2 I should have read this.
Now where did I put that JB 9am

dave500 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 26, 2012, 06:06:30 AM »

im with you ken,,,im on the couch tonite!,my wife works mornings.

bollingball · « **Reply #18 on:** October 26, 2012, 06:50:38 AM »

It is 9:48 am here in NC. What time is it over there? Hell What day is it?
Ken

Viktor.J · « **Reply #19 on:** October 26, 2012, 08:49:41 AM »

Im sorry guys I'm not following... I do speak english, but I'm not that good at "slang" that i can understand hidden messages. So, if you want to tell me something, do so

If not, write so we all can laugh...

bollingball · « **Reply #20 on:** October 26, 2012, 11:23:54 AM »

I'm Sorry Victor I thought you had a 650 and Dave was letting me know that you have a 750. He was joking with me and thought I had a nip into the Jim Beam Bourbon.
But on to your bike do a full 3K tuneup and even though your air filter looks good it may be old and they break down inside and do not work as well. Make sure you do the tuneup in the correct order this is very important. Most of the time that noise is either the cam chain out of adjustment or the carbs out of sync both of which are taken care of with a full or major tuneup. There is a lot to a good tuneup and the first one really needs to be thorough. Post back if you need any help.
Ken

Viktor.J · « **Reply #21 on:** October 26, 2012, 12:23:29 PM »

Quote from: bollingball on October 26, 2012, 11:23:54 AM

I'm Sorry Victor I thought you had a 650 and Dave was letting me know that you have a 750. He was joking with me and thought I had a nip into the Jim Beam Bourbon.
But on to your bike do a full 3K tuneup and even though your air filter looks good it may be old and they break down inside and do not work as well. Make sure you do the tuneup in the correct order this is very important. Most of the time that noise is either the cam chain out of adjustment or the carbs out of sync both of which are taken care of with a full or major tuneup. There is a lot to a good tuneup and the first one really needs to be thorough. Post back if you need any help.
Ken

Thanks for the input. I have the clymer and I have the "Owner manual" from the forum. In the owners manual It's a section called "engine tune up" and a section called "periodical maintenance" is one of these this "3 k service" ?
I'm keen on getting it right from the first time

Xnavylfr · « **Reply #22 on:** October 27, 2012, 05:07:00 PM »

Since you just purchased this bike you may not know the weight or thickness of the oil!! Here in the STATES we mostly use 30 wt. a good general range oil. Here we can also buy MULTI-WT. This may get too confusing. Change the oil when you do the 3000 mile service. AND FILTER.

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

Viktor.J · « **Reply #23 on:** October 28, 2012, 01:49:42 AM »

Since winter is approaching in Sweden the bike is in the garage. And I've read some post about changing the oil after a cold 5 months stop. So I figured I change the oil next spring for next season.

I've been searching the forum but can't find any info, i guess i know basically what to do. But would love to know in what sequence to do everything, and i don't want to miss out anything, But is there any special part of a book, special schedule where I can find what to do and in what order..

I might seem quite stupid with all my questions but Id like to believe I'm not

It's just that its my first bike and I don't really have any to give me a first hand tutorial

Better safe then sorry you know.
As a mentioned I have the clymer and the 270 page owners manual ..

Thans for the input Xnavylfr !

City Boy · « **Reply #24 on:** October 28, 2012, 06:16:25 AM »

Hi Viktor.What i am hearing is a loose cam chain and noisy primary chain likely caused by out of sync carburators.At the least do a full tuneup and oil change and if you plan to do any work yourself get a shop manual and preferably a genuine Honda version. Rock On

Bailgang · « **Reply #25 on:** October 28, 2012, 06:54:56 AM »

Quote from: City Boy on October 28, 2012, 06:16:25 AM

Hi Viktor.What i am hearing is a loose cam chain and noisy primary chain likely caused by out of sync carburators.At the least do a full tuneup and oil change and if you plan to do any work yourself get a shop manual and preferably a genuine Honda version. Rock On

+1 on the carb sync. Carbs out of sync combined with a sloppy cam and or primary chain can make it sound like the engine's falling apart.

bollingball · « **Reply #26 on:** October 28, 2012, 08:25:15 AM »

As a mentioned I have the clymer and the 270 page owners manual ..Victor ICBW but the owners manual is the small little book that usually goes under the seat when new. The big one is referred to as the (Service or shop Manual) It covers more engine work where the owners manual does not. No big deal I am just trying to see if we are talking about the same thing. The (service or shop manual) can be down loaded here.
http://www.sohc4.net/index.php/cb750/cb750k/books-manuals-guides/

Ken

Viktor.J · « **Reply #27 on:** October 28, 2012, 09:17:53 AM »

Quote from: bollingball on October 28, 2012, 08:25:15 AM

As a mentioned I have the clymer and the 270 page owners manual ..Victor ICBW but the owners manual is the small little book that usually goes under the seat when new. The big one is referred to as the (Service or shop Manual) It covers more engine work where the owners manual does not. No big deal I am just trying to see if we are talking about the same thing. The (service or shop manual) can be down loaded here.
http://www.sohc4.net/index.php/cb750/cb750k/books-manuals-guides/

Ken

Oh snap ! I meant shop manual, i have the shop manual that you linked, 270 pages

But It doesn't says in which order I should do the tuning

But as long as im fine with these books thats great

bollingball · « **Reply #28 on:** October 28, 2012, 10:33:05 AM »

Tune Up

a.   Compression test
b.   Tighten cylinder head bolts (see Ch. 4, Camshaft)
c.   Cam chain adjustment
d.   Rotate clock wise until it is at 15deg. ATDC line up index mark to the left side of spring post. Keep tension on with large breaker and magnet. Then loosen adjuster and nut
e.   Valve clearance adjustment In+.002 EX+.003 T mark TDCC
f.   Spark plugs 8.7-13.7 Ft lb
g.   D8ea .024-.028
h.   Condenser (capacitor)
i.   Breaker points .012-.016 Do set 1-4 first
j.   Ignition timing
k.   Air cleaner
Carburetion (if needed)

This is the order I use. I don't do a & b every time. If anyone thinks it is wrong please say so.
Ken

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #29 on:** October 28, 2012, 04:33:55 PM »

Quote from: bollingball on October 28, 2012, 10:33:05 AM

Tune Up

a.   Compression test
b.   Tighten cylinder head bolts (see Ch. 4, Camshaft)
c.   Cam chain adjustment
d.   Rotate clock wise until it is at 15deg. ATDC line up index mark to the left side of spring post. Keep tension on with large breaker and magnet. Then loosen adjuster and nut
e.   Valve clearance adjustment In+.002 EX+.003 T mark TDCC
f.   Spark plugs 8.7-13.7 Ft lb
g.   D8ea .024-.028
h.   Condenser (capacitor)
i.   Breaker points .012-.016 Do set 1-4 first
j.   Ignition timing
k.   Air cleaner
Carburetion (if needed)

This is the order I use. I don't do a & b every time. If anyone thinks it is wrong please say so.
Ken

Ken, I don't think you are wrong but what is up with ..."Keep the tension on with large breaker and magnet." ...explain a little more I've never heard of this

burlybear · « **Reply #30 on:** October 28, 2012, 06:12:29 PM »

subscribed

1976verona · « **Reply #31 on:** October 29, 2012, 09:39:40 AM »

I can hear a steady hum of the cyls so I don't thinks it's misfiring just start by adjusting the cam chain tension. Remove the tensioner assembly and clean and make sure the plunger is not stuck and rusted in the housing. After cleaning apply grease or anti-sieze to the plunger stem and push it into the housing and tighten the bolt. reinstall it in the engine and then loosen the set bolt to let the plunger slide in against the chain. Set the engine to 15 degrees per the service manual before removing the plunger. My bike had the same noise and after performing this repair mine runs very quiet now.

bollingball · « **Reply #32 on:** October 30, 2012, 04:31:16 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on October 28, 2012, 04:33:55 PM

Quote from: bollingball on October 28, 2012, 10:33:05 AM
Tune Up

a.   Compression test
b.   Tighten cylinder head bolts (see Ch. 4, Camshaft)
c.   Cam chain adjustment
d.   Rotate clock wise until it is at 15deg. ATDC line up index mark to the left side of spring post. Keep tension on with large breaker and magnet. Then loosen adjuster and nut
e.   Valve clearance adjustment In+.002 EX+.003 T mark TDCC
f.   Spark plugs 8.7-13.7 Ft lb
g.   D8ea .024-.028
h.   Condenser (capacitor)
i.   Breaker points .012-.016 Do set 1-4 first
j.   Ignition timing
k.   Air cleaner
Carburetion (if needed)

This is the order I use. I don't do a & b every time. If anyone thinks it is wrong please say so.
Ken

Ken, I don't think you are wrong but what is up with ..."Keep the tension on with large breaker and magnet." ...explain a little more I've never heard of this

With the plugs out the engine is very easy to turn over. So once you get to the 15deg. spot it can roll backwards and if it does your slack in the chain can be off. To keep the engine from moving I do this.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #33 on:** October 30, 2012, 08:01:33 PM »

ok, gotcha...that yellow thing is a big ole' magnet?

bollingball · « **Reply #34 on:** October 30, 2012, 09:07:35 PM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on October 30, 2012, 08:01:33 PM

ok, gotcha...that yellow thing is a big ole' magnet?

Yes I usually fish off bridges with on a long 30ft parachute cord as a kid we would find guns bikes just about everything.
Ken

dave500 · « **Reply #35 on:** October 31, 2012, 01:10:02 AM »

magnet fishing,i didnt know fish had that much iron in them.

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Author Topic: Listen to my engine, what would you do/start with ? (Read 5198 times)

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