Author Topic: Project: 7-Fizzle - V1.1 - If only spring would get here... (Read 147671 times)

iron_worker · « **Reply #200 on:** January 21, 2013, 06:43:05 AM »

Ah thanks guys.

Any comments on the oil hoses? I will need to let the guys at Cycle X know pretty soon if I want them to include it with my current order.

IW

Scotty J · « **Reply #201 on:** January 21, 2013, 07:15:09 AM »

I've got the cheaper version; bought them from Carpy. They'll do the job just fine. They're really just a hose clamp with a little dress-up to make it look like a nut. If you want to be all fancy and OEM, then go for the expensive repro's.

iron_worker · « **Reply #202 on:** January 21, 2013, 12:47:13 PM »

To save a dollar or not to save a dollar. That is the question...

lol

IW

Scotty J · « **Reply #203 on:** January 22, 2013, 05:03:07 AM »

Save a buck on the oil line clamps:
http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/an-fittings-and-hose-1647/xrp-fitting-349/hose-finishers-537/super-nickel-hex-664/
And you could probably find braided hose at AutoZone, or elsewhere on the internet.

iron_worker · « **Reply #204 on:** January 22, 2013, 08:42:29 AM »

Thanks for the heads up!

Here is a link to a thread about a good flasher that fits on the stock mount mostly for my own reference:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=117076.0

IW

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #205 on:** January 23, 2013, 05:16:01 AM »

Nice work IW. I love the attention to detail. I`ve ran into a problem with my rubber frt brake lines. They are hard and cracked, anyone know of a cheaper alternative than oem?.......Gary

iron_worker · « **Reply #206 on:** January 23, 2013, 06:23:31 AM »

I'm pretty sure I bought mine from Service Honda:

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2560084&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1974&fveh=132838

But ya, that's $50+ for the pair. I'm wondering if you could just take your hoses to an automotive shop and have them try to match it up with something similar.

I believe there was someone commenting on getting custom brake lines from this place: http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/custom-brake-lines.html
Though I can't recall exactly where I saw that. There may be local shops that could build you a custom set of brake lines for you if you brought your old ones in to match up.

IW

CafeDawg · « **Reply #207 on:** January 23, 2013, 08:56:23 AM »

Nice build IW been following along, love the work room got one similar. As for brake lines there's always member here pampadori, not sure if their cheaper than OEM but better and sized right. Keep up the good work.

Respect
CD

Forgot link: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=54790.375

MikeKato · « **Reply #208 on:** January 23, 2013, 09:41:17 AM »

IW

Tweakin seems to have found a pretty solution.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=105242.0

GL!
Mike

Scotty J · « **Reply #209 on:** January 23, 2013, 10:06:09 AM »

+1 on pampadori- good cat. I wanted to ditch the little pipettes between the caliper and hose when I did the dual disk mod, so he custom built me a set of lines using his own bike for test fit. Luckily we both run clubmans. And SS lines are a night-and-day upgrade.

iron_worker · « **Reply #210 on:** January 24, 2013, 09:56:53 AM »

Someone want to buy some paint from here:

http://www.marblesmotors.com/index.htm

And drive it across the border for me? There could be a beer or two in it for you! lol

IW

iron_worker · « **Reply #211 on:** January 26, 2013, 05:03:09 PM »

Even though my parts got held up at the bead blaster again and I wasn't able to paint ... I feel like a got a good bit accomplished today.

Decided I should put some stuff together today rather than just zinc plate. I find it more enjoyable because you get to see visible progress as parts start to come together.

Put the brake arm on, oil tank got a fresh crush washer...

Mounted it up. I'm missing one bolt ... hmmm hopefully it turns up as I go.

Got the front brake & lower line and fender mounted up.

Put this overflow holder back on the center stand as some of you guys had pointed out to me where it goes. Thanks.

Assembled the rear fender and tail-light and put it away.

...which freed up some shelf space.

So I re-organized a bit.

Mirrors were looking a bit sad.

So I polished them up ... some scratches on the one from the bike being tipped over.

A big heave-ho to get this thing back on the ground... It's starting to look like something.

It was warm enough today to get my window open. All this snow was packed in behind the screen. ha

Hopefully they designed my deck with snow load in mind...

Next batch of parts to zinc plate.

Degreasing while the electrolyte heats up.

My method for installing shock bushings.

It worked but left the one side sticking out just slightly so the shock wouldn't quite fit over it. Haven't figured out how I'll solve that yet.... hmmm.

Shock bushings and main pivot bushings in place.

Out with the old upper shock bushings.

In with the new.

Mothers chrome polish and steel wool make it look real nice.

Stuff from my tool kit that needs to be re-zinc'ed. I have a new pouch for it too,

Wire wheeled until it was pretty. The three wrenches at the bottom I believe were added later by someone ... probably my father. They're 7/16" and 3/8". lol

Well I had talked to Caswell about my parts coming out with this "oxide" on it. The guy said he though I might be using too high of current. I spent more time accurately measuring the area and cut it by 80%... still looks like this. So I dunno.

I didn't get as far as polishing them up yet. Maybe tomorrow.

IW

mwvachon · « **Reply #212 on:** January 27, 2013, 05:16:06 AM »

Hey IronWorker,

I have the same set-up (identical power supply) for zinc plating. Just from the pic, I have a few questions, comments. Where are the zinc plates? I cut two 3" strips from the material supplied and bent one end to hang them over the edge of the bucket. I have a lead that runs from the power supply to the first zinc strip and a jumper to the 2nd. Also note that the zinc has a protective film on it, if you haven't already, you'll need to peel that off. I'm assuming that you've mixed the materials as instructed and used distilled water (tap water contains minerals, etc that will kill this process). It also looks like you're trying to plate a lot of things at once - try starting with just one small piece and use the lowest amp setting on the power supply. I crank the voltage and work off the amps. What you want to see is just a slight amount of bubbling off of the part(s) being plated. increase the amperage slowly until you see this (I'm typically working at or below 1 amp). If you apply too much current, the plating will come out clumpy and create a general mess. Let me know if you have any other questions...

iron_worker · « **Reply #213 on:** January 27, 2013, 11:37:10 AM »

In the pic above you can see strips coming up over the edge of the pail. One is near the back by the heater and one 180degrees from that. You can see the red leads hooking up to them. I cut a strip up the side of my anodes like you described.

I don't think my anodes came wit ha protective film. However, as they get dirty from use I clean them up with a wire wheel or scotchbrite. They are usually dulled again within 1 batch of plated items. I talked with the Caswell rep and he says the look of my anodes is normal (I sent in some pics) but the way my parts come out all oxidized looking is not normal. I've tried reducing the current to see if that would help but so far nothing. I cut the current down to 60% of the recommended value and the parts barely plated at all and were kind of spotty so I bumped it up to about 75% of the recommended (.07amp/in^2) and they came out dull again.

For your other questions:
-I did mix the ingredients as per the manual
-I did buy distilled water and only use that to fill my spray bottle and refill the pails as they evaporate
-I don't think I can get away with plating just one or two things at a time. I just have way too much stuff to try and get done before spring!
-My parts being plated never bubble at all so I'm not sure what that means exactly

The way I'm doing it now works it just is more work because I have polish all the parts after plating as well as the pre-cleaning and degreasing. Its just an added step. I wonder if it's a pH problem. The manual lists a pH range to stay within but right now I have no way to test what my pH so that could be it? Maybe I could try plating at a lower temperature. Sometimes my plating temp creeps up too high so maybe that has an affect as well.

I dunno!

IW

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #214 on:** January 27, 2013, 02:30:57 PM »

iron, great great stuff! question for you though, where are you getting the rubber bushings for the swingarm and shocks? ebay isn't turning up too much. I see the seller jtmarks (another shoutout to his help and service) has a set of the ones for the rear shocks, but I still would like to source the swingarm rubber bushings. any detailed tips on how you removed and set the new ones in? pounding them out does not seem like a good idea because I dont want to bend the swingarm.....or take a chip out of my nice new paint. thanks!

iron_worker · « **Reply #215 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:01:01 PM »

I believe I got my bushings and rubber shock mounts from service honda. CMSNL carries them too I believe. I generally compared pricing between CMSNL, Service Honda, and David Silver Spares.

If you look back in my thread you'll see a small bit on how I removed my shock bushings. Basically used a long bolt, a socket large enough to receive the bushing inside, a socket just smaller than the OD of the bushing, a few washers, and a nut. Basically I tightened it up so the small socket forced the bushing through and the large socket was there to allow the bushing to be pushed out inside of it. If that makes sense.

Did a similar thing to drive them back in again.

IW

mwvachon · « **Reply #216 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:09:47 PM »

OK IW, Didn't know if I had uncovered anything for ya in the processing. I didn't find the film on the zinc plates until the first time I tried to wire-brush them after use. But seem like you've covered that. I can say I've never had parts coming out looking like that. I typically do onesey-twoseys as I'm prepping and finishing at the same time while other parts are plated - sort of like a small assembly line, if you will. Parts should plate in 10 - 15 min. Not seeing bubbling from the plating action? That seems strange to me. Did the Caswell rep discuss that at all?

iron_worker · « **Reply #217 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:27:25 PM »

Warning! This post contains a crap load of pics!

Another day in the shop. Today felt like a long one. I played around lots with my zinc plating and I think may just be more confused than ever. ha

Started off by polishing the stuff that I plated yesterday.

Axle stays in their place.

I was going to put this back on the frame but I decided that it would probably just get in the way for now.

A coat of linseed oil on my tool kit screw driver handle.

Some experimentation of zinc plating to try and figure out how much amperage to use.

One part of the manual says .07amp/in^2 and one says .14amp/in^2 ... hmmm. I did figure out that I have been plating at too hot of a temperature. I was plating at 140F before and I see now that it's only supposed to be 110F. Not sure how I mixed that up.

In the mean time I started prepping one of the last batches to plate.

Wire wheeled and ready to de-grease.

Going to re-plate my carb insulator clamps and bought new screws since the old were pretty wallowed out.

I was going to replace the clamps but they're stupidly expensive so I am trying to salvage mine. I worked on getting them back to as round as possible. lol

I think I started with around 60% of recommended amperage but still comes out with a haze.

But it polished up pretty quickly.

I turned up the amperage to 75% here I think and definitely got more oxide.

For this test I added more brightener and kept it at around 75% I think. The oxide came off very easy by hand.

Still polishes off just fine.

Wiring up the rest of the tools.

The next few pictures are just me taking note of which connectors I need to buy/fit and which are ok.

I repaired a broken wire on my tail light.

Busted out the handle bars to be polished.

That had some nasty stuff on them.

But polished quite nicely.

Although a few marks remain but mostly in places where the grips will cover... after it all I decided I needed to soak it in the parts washer anyway to hopefully clean some of the crap out from inside. I will need to slide the control wires back through and it ain't gonna be easy.

The brightener seemed to help. These parts polished up very easily.

Like new.

Decided I should make up a new tank bar. Not sure why now seeing as the bulk of the plating is done. ha This piece came out really nice. Hardly any oxide at all!

This is before polishing.

Literally 15s with 000 steel wool gives really nice shine to it.

But then these come out looking pretty oxidized again... I give up!

After polishing and with new hardware and new insulators they look pretty nice though!

Freshly plated tools back in the new pouch.

Cool!

And the last batch of zinc all done up.

I'm so sick of plating! hahaha

Well I thought I would be all scientific and experiment with varying current densities etc but I did so many different batches that I really should have written down the results from each test. Lower current does seem to reduce the oxide and the brighener seemed to help a bit too but neither removed it completely. Ah well, I guess I'll just have to manual polish everything.

I can say that I am done the zinc plating other than a few bits and bobs... which feels great! Next weekend I can hopefully get painting my engine cases and hubs. I also need to put in my last order to get new rims, spokes, side covers, side cover emblems, some electrical connectors, etc... Hopefully it's my last large order. The $$$ is really starting to add up.

I also have to contact a few places about cleaning and possibly lining my tank and I also need to find a painter.

Some pretty big steps coming up in the not so distant future.

IW

iron_worker · « **Reply #218 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:29:32 PM »

Quote from: mwvachon on January 27, 2013, 07:09:47 PM

OK IW, Didn't know if I had uncovered anything for ya in the processing. I didn't find the film on the zinc plates until the first time I tried to wire-brush them after use. But seem like you've covered that. I can say I've never had parts coming out looking like that. I typically do onesey-twoseys as I'm prepping and finishing at the same time while other parts are plated - sort of like a small assembly line, if you will. Parts should plate in 10 - 15 min. Not seeing bubbling from the plating action? That seems strange to me. Did the Caswell rep discuss that at all?

No I didn't discuss that with them because I didn't realize it was not normal. lol

I found some discrepancies in the manual regarding current densities so I may email them about that.

Thanks for your help though. I may not figure out my problem any time soon since I'm done the majority of my plating. ha

IW

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #219 on:** January 27, 2013, 07:47:54 PM »

I can remember having some serious difficulties (i.e.- think it was impossible) trying to get that brake pedal lever arm/pivot thingie back in with the swingarm installed...just a heads up. You are doing such a beautifully detailed job, it makes me curious why you are painting over so much of your Honda's naturally beautiful aluminum.

DarcyB · « **Reply #220 on:** January 27, 2013, 08:01:49 PM »

The bike is looking awesome, you're making some good progress on her!! I was actually trying to think of a way to all the fasteners and misc. parts on my bike and you inadvertently helped me out with the zinc plating lol thanks.

I will also have to try out your method for getting the swingarm bushings and low shock bushings out as well.

Keep up the good work

iron_worker · « **Reply #221 on:** January 28, 2013, 06:01:07 AM »

The reason I've decided to paint all the aluminum is for maintenance purposes. I just want to ride. I don't want to be polishing forever. I know with my obsessive nature I'd be polishing on it with every spot I saw and that's just not practical.

Being in the condo does not make maintenance easy. Trust me when I say the bike won't be coming back up once it's done. lol Any time I want to fix something or clean the bike I have to carry all my supplies down 3 floors and you can't just leave it there to run to the hardware store for something either. You have to clean it all up again and carry it all up.

So hopefully in the end I'll have something I can just take to the car wash for a power wash and have it looking great again in a few minutes.

Also ... the aluminum on my bike was so oxidized and faded I thought it was supposed to be painted. ha

IW

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #222 on:** January 28, 2013, 09:15:34 AM »

I think the paint work is fine. Its your bike do with it what pleases you.............Gary

iron_worker · « **Reply #223 on:** January 28, 2013, 10:28:03 AM »

You guys sure know how to make me second guess myself. ha

I think the paint on all the aluminum will really tie the bike together from front to back and also will make the chrome POP! It will also make it not exactly like stock so it will be "my own" touch.

I'm going ahead with the paint. Really don't want to pay someone to polish and I don't have the right equipment to polish it myself either.

IW

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #224 on:** January 28, 2013, 01:21:43 PM »

Figured it was something like that...also guys go to far with polishing imo. You don't have to make it look better than chrome. It looked nothing like that from the factory. I just hit mine with a red scotchbrite pad and some metal polish and it looks about like factory, then I just clean it with metal polish when it gets dirty...gets shinier than last each time. I'm not trying to change your mind and I hear you on trying to be a little different.

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Author Topic: Project: 7-Fizzle - V1.1 - If only spring would get here... (Read 147671 times)