Topic: Project: 7-Fizzle - V1.1 - If only spring would get here...

[iron_worker]

Probably the worst smell that I've encountered so far was the from the rubber matting I laid down. The new rubber is just starting to stop off-gassing now.

The vinegar smell isn't too bad because I keep a lid on the tub as much as possible and even if I don't it seems to stay contained mostly in the room. I just use plain old white vinegar. Found some for $2/gal at Walmart. I did notice that if only partially submerse a part you will get a stained ring around the part where the liquid line was which can be  tough to remove so be concious of that. Also ... vinegar *will* remove paint if you let it sit long enough. I let my lower triple sit in the tub for 2 days and the black paint peeled right off!

Another thing about the vinegar is it tends to turn the zinc plated stuff black ... but it actually brushes off quite easily and leaves a nice clean (but dull) surface underneath.

The other thing that smells real bad is 40yr old fork oil... sick!

I also have a window fan that can push or pull. If I use it to pull air out of the room it causes air to flow in from the rest of the apartment and keep the smells inside the room... No serious complaints from my gf yet so I guess I'm not doing too bad. ha

Thanks for lookin guys.

IW

[iron_worker]

I was also going to ask if anybody new if the steering lock mechanism can come out? I got the plastic cover off but can't figure out of the actually locking mechanism can come out.

Also .... my Craftsman toolbox locked itself!!! ... with the keys in it of course. I had my steering stem on top of it and was beating it around trying to get the bearing race off and somehow that must have locked it? Any idea how I can open it without making a mess of my new box?

IW

[Viktor.J]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-Distilled-White-Vinegar-1-gal/10450998

Like this ? I'll try to see if i could find this in sweden and giv it another try

[iron_worker]

Yes I believe that may be exactly the stuff I bought.

IW

[Viktor.J]

OK thanks allot fellas !

apparently there been some bad translation from my side causing a misunderstanding. When you guys write Vinegar you mean the distilled white vinegar. I thought you meant vinegar as in apple cider vinegar or such stuff because in Sweden the "distilled white vinegar" = "Ättiksprit" and the "food"-vinegar is simply called "vinäger" which is almost the same name

That's why I did't use distilled white vinegar and that's why I didn't get any results

Thanks once again !

Btw, check out my slow project tread our bikes are quite alike !   

[dave500]

ive always used mollases,im going grocery shopping today so ill pick up some vinegar and try it out,good job your doing in that phone booth iron man!

[jerry h]

I was also going to ask if anybody new if the steering lock mechanism can come out? I got the plastic cover off but can't figure out of the actually locking mechanism can come out.

On my K2 (I assume its the same), take the plastic cover off, then insert the key, turn it, and the assembly should come out.  There is a little spring too if I remember, watch out you dont drop it.

[iron_worker]

I was also going to ask if anybody new if the steering lock mechanism can come out? I got the plastic cover off but can't figure out of the actually locking mechanism can come out.

On my K2 (I assume its the same), take the plastic cover off, then insert the key, turn it, and the assembly should come out.  There is a little spring too if I remember, watch out you dont drop it.

Oh well that's another one of those tricks that is great to know. Thanks.

IW

[iron_worker]

ive always used mollases,im going grocery shopping today so ill pick up some vinegar and try it out,good job your doing in that phone booth iron man!

Phone booth .... hahahahaha. Thanks.


Btw, I got my toolbox open last night. Apparently flipping it upside down is not the answer (it does make a really big mess inside though). I ended up picking the lock. All I used was a copper nail with a 90 degree bend near the end and the tip smashed flat with a hammer. I used that as the "torquing device" and used a mini screwdriver to mess with the tumblers. Was pretty easy actually once I had the right tools.

IW

[iron_worker]

I continue to plod along. I got a bit done this weekend cause it was a long weekend here. Here is what I accomplished:


Engine is out and the frame is completely stripped and power washed.


In all her greasy glory. I won't be tearing into her until I get myself another shelf to organize some parts.


Tore down the front brake system. Everything actually looked pretty good. I could probably even re-use the pads but I think I will rebuild the caliper, master cylinder, and new pads just for good measure.


Managed to get the swingarm bushings out... they put up a fight. I cut down some washers with flat spots on the sides you can slide them through the bushing sideways and then turn them upright. Then beat the hell out of them with a big hammer and socket & extension. Once one side is out the other side is easy.

The shock bushings I used a 27mm socket on one side, a 15mm socket on the other side and drew them together with the bolts shown. It took everything I had on the end of a 9/16" wrench but they came out.


#$%*ty pic but I pulled the coils apart and cleaned them up. Really focusing on having good clean electrical connections. I don't think I'll be replacing these.


Stripped down the handle bars. It was a bear getting the wiring from the controls out... lots of lube and pulling got the job done. I may have to polish the inside of the tube somehow to get the wires back through again....


Controls in my pile of junk.... what color are these supposed to be? Black?


All my cables and wiring harness. I believe these will all be getting replaced except for the speedo cable is in good shape.


Ever growing parts pile.


Bagged and tagged more hardware.


Hubs still waiting to have the bearings pulled out.

I also created a list of parts that I need... 2.5 pages long not including any engine parts. wow..... This is gonna get expensive.

IW

[jerry h]

Looking good....

I also created a list of parts that I need... 2.5 pages long not including any engine parts. wow..... This is gonna get expensive.

Don't do that !!!    You don't want to know how much it will actually cost.  Rather, do cost figures for each sub assembly, like wheels, electrical,  top end etc.....   then it doesn't seem so bad.

[Garystratos201]

quote from Jerry H ;
Don't do that !!!    You don't want to know how much it will actually cost.  Rather, do cost figures for each sub assembly, like wheels, electrical,  top end etc.....   then it doesn't seem so bad.


Totally agree with that. I started out thinking I could get away with just putting in new rings and honing the cylinders and some paint. lol But I`m in way to deep to pull back now.....Gary

[mono]

looking good!

RE: Powder coating - you should probably remove the VIN plate (file off the rivet heads) and then reattach it afterwards. 

[greenjeans]

I love your man room.....hmmmm that just sounds bad.

anyway, good progress.    Just my 2c here but anytime you are dealing with 40 year old brake pads and shoes, I'd go ahead and pop for some new ones.

I, personally have had a set of shoes separate in the drum while riding.    They looked fine.    I have seen more than one set of shoes separate since.

Not really sure what causes it, maybe just pure age combined with the aggressive solvents used to clean brake parts - better safe than sorry.

[iron_worker]

What would the best way be to reattach the VIN plate?

Thanks for the compliments guys. I'm excited to start getting powder coat and order new parts. It will nice when it actually starts going back together. ha

IW

[Garystratos201]

Be very careful when removing it . It is also glued on. Center punch the rivets and drill them out then heat with hot air blower and carefully separate tag from frame. Hope this helps. I learned the hard way. Actually tore mine . .............Gary

[iron_worker]

Great tip. Thanks. I'll be careful.

I made the horrible mistake of listing everything out that I need.... here is the list (don't mind some of the terms I may have made up)... lol

seat hinge pins
blade fuse holder
crush washer - oil tank / oil pan
horn mount to frame hardware
side cover grommets/threaded insert?
cotter pins?
oil lines?
gas tank hold down rubber
instrument indicator panel - washer (chrome)
rear shock mount - heavy washer (chrome)
rear shock mount - lower bushing
rear shock mount - upper rubber
swingarm bushings
gaitor chrome ring
tapered roller bearing - steering stem
steering stem seal?
battery box rubbers?
crush washers - front brake lines
front caliper rebuild kit
front caliper brake pad
master cylinder rebuild kit?
brake lever
brake lever bolt
clutch lever
clutch lever bolt
flasher - rubber mount
tach drive mount bolt (engine)
speedo drive mount bolt (front axle)
throttle sleeve
horn cover
ignition switch connector?
rear grab bar
rear signal mounting bolt
axle tensioner lock nuts
fork ears
fork ear mounting rubbers
signal to fork ear rubbers
carb to engine boots + clamps
airbox to carb rubbers + clamps
airbox seal
airbox wingnuts
upper brake hose
lower brake hose?
tach cable
clutch cable
throttle push/pull cables
wiring harness
fork spring retainer caps (chrome)?
fork dust boots
fork dust seals
fork gaitors
fork tubes
tool pouch
tool tray pad?
front wheel bearings
rear wheel bearings
carb drain screw
kill switch/start button control connectors

None of the parts are engine related parts... that will come in the next step. I'm sure I'm also missing a couple things but it's a fairly comprehensive list.

IW

[iron_worker]

Here is a question for you guys ... where would I look up what tube sizes I need?

IW

[iron_worker]

Just got a quote back from the powder coater to do all my black pieces ...

$750! Ouch...that's around double what I was expecting.

I have a request for quote out to another shop (a smaller shop) so hopefully his is more reasonable.

IW

[iron_worker]

I carry on my progress on this restoration job....


Here are all the parts I asked for the quote on to be powder coated ... $750 was a bit shocking to say the least ... hopefully the other shop has a better rate.


I continued to tear into the hubs. Drilling the bearing retainers, pounding the bearings out, and degreasing everything was a big job.


More parts for the pile.


Rear hub pieces. My rubber cush drive pieces were actually still fairly supple. I had planned to replace them but I think I've decided mine are good enough to keep.


The front hub was in remarkable shape. I think the bearings had the original grease. The seals did a great job of keeping out the grime.


Here are the front bearings. Nice virgin grease. No play or corrosion whatsoever.


Rear bearings were a bit dirtier but still looked fairly good for 40 years old. No play in these bearings either.

I think I will replace them all with All Balls anyway for piece of mind though.


A good amount of friction material left on my drum shoes. I think I will reuse these but will replace my front pads and resurface the rotor.


Tore down my shocks too and degreased as best I could. I'm thinking I'm going to spray paint the forks and hubs to match the engine using Duplicolor or VHT. I also need new fork tubes ... there are big gouges right where the seals go. I also ended up using a dremel to remove my fork seals... oops.


Some parts I found at the bottom of my parts washer... ha These are the thrust bushings for the swingarm. I also found the dust caps but they are in the vinegar soak.


Should be the last vinegar soak of parts for a while I think. I'm getting to the end of things to clean.


Fresh 12gallons of simple green and water 5:1. I cleaned out probably 1lb of sludge out of the bottom. Nasty.

So... the bike is nearly completely torn down besides the engine. I will be placing a LARGE parts order this week and hopefully get my parts off to powder coat. My shelf that I ordered also has arrived so I'll try to pick that up tomorrow. Once I get my room a bit more organized perhaps I can start stripping the motor. I'd like to get the head and cylinders sent away before xmas.

I've also ordered a zinc plating kit so hopefully that shows up fairly soon so I can get going on reassembling some bits before I forget where everything goes!

IW

[dave500]

im keen to see how the zinc plating goes.

[iron_worker]

Me too. ha

[jas67]

Just got a quote back from the powder coater to do all my black pieces ...

$750! Ouch...that's around double what I was expecting.

I have a request for quote out to another shop (a smaller shop) so hopefully his is more reasonable.

IW

I've been told about $250-$300 to powder coat a frame in my area of Pennsylvania.    Yes, completely different location, but it is at least a data point.   That price was for a custom built Hyabusa drag race frame with a lot of trellis style (like a Ducati) bracing.

I'm hoping to get my CB160 and CL160 frame powder coated for that much or, hopefully less.

[iron_worker]

Things seem to be more expensive here but I thinking like $400 or so... Called the other PC shop today and he hasn't gotten around to making me up a quote yet ...arg.

IW

[iron_worker]

Great tip. Thanks. I'll be careful.

I made the horrible mistake of listing everything out that I need.... here is the list (don't mind some of the terms I may have made up)... lol

seat hinge pins
blade fuse holder
crush washer - oil tank / oil pan
horn mount to frame hardware
side cover grommets/threaded insert?
cotter pins?
oil lines?
gas tank hold down rubber
instrument indicator panel - washer (chrome)
rear shock mount - heavy washer (chrome)
rear shock mount - lower bushing
rear shock mount - upper rubber
swingarm bushings
gaitor chrome ring
tapered roller bearing - steering stem
steering stem seal?
battery box rubbers?
crush washers - front brake lines
front caliper rebuild kit
front caliper brake pad
master cylinder rebuild kit?
brake lever
brake lever bolt
clutch lever
clutch lever bolt
flasher - rubber mount
tach drive mount bolt (engine)
speedo drive mount bolt (front axle)
throttle sleeve
horn cover
ignition switch connector?
rear grab bar
rear signal mounting bolt
axle tensioner lock nuts
fork ears
fork ear mounting rubbers
signal to fork ear rubbers
carb to engine boots + clamps
airbox to carb rubbers + clamps
airbox seal
airbox wingnuts
upper brake hose
lower brake hose?
tach cable
clutch cable
throttle push/pull cables
wiring harness
fork spring retainer caps (chrome)?
fork dust boots
fork dust seals
fork gaitors
fork tubes
tool pouch
tool tray pad?
front wheel bearings
rear wheel bearings
carb drain screw
kill switch/start button control connectors

None of the parts are engine related parts... that will come in the next step. I'm sure I'm also missing a couple things but it's a fairly comprehensive list.

IW

Put in a huge order and have almost all of these things on the way from CMSNL, Service Honda, All Balls, and VintageCB750. Should be like christmas ... near christmas time. lol

IW