Author Topic: Project: 7-Fizzle - V1.1 - If only spring would get here... (Read 147698 times)

wowbagger · « **Reply #800 on:** June 03, 2013, 09:10:29 AM »

I used a hair dryer on the 3/16 tubing to get it on....but then ended up ordering the proper 5.5mm black tubing since the clear stuff turned hard and brittle pretty fast.

iron_worker · « **Reply #801 on:** June 03, 2013, 10:01:15 AM »

I just found some 7/32" fuel line from Rec Supply locally.

5.5mm = .2165"
7/32" = .21875"

~2 thousandths difference

Should be close enough! ... Has to be better than the 1/4" clear vinyl I have on there now which is leaking.

IW

JC Blues · « **Reply #802 on:** June 03, 2013, 02:28:07 PM »

Glorious! ! Glad to see your back on the road!

Frankensteins Bride · « **Reply #803 on:** June 05, 2013, 07:30:38 AM »

Yay! Glad you beat me!

I'd give my eye teeth for a spare tank myself right now. (leaking issues.) So glad to see you got something and are on the road working through the finer issues. Looking forward to seeing more!

iron_worker · « **Reply #804 on:** June 05, 2013, 07:44:53 AM »

Where are you leaking from? I'm struggling with some fuel leaking of my own.

I tracked down some 7/32" fuel line from a Recreation Supply shop in town that fixed the leak I had coming from the barbed fitting/hose connections. I replaced all my fuel bowl drain o-rings and fixed a drip I had there.

AND my brand new fuel petcock (reproduction junk) doesn't shut off completely. Even in the off position it drips from the one hose port and so 2 of my carbs continuously receive fuel all night. It eventually overcomes my fuel needle and then I get some slight seepage from the fuel bowl or a drip from the overflow. New petcock on the way though (OEM).

Also new jets on the way!

New thoughts regarding the state of tune:

I think I'm still rich at idle despite being at 2 turns out (1 turn out is factory setting). Even on a cooler morning like today (10C ... 50F) I only need choke to get it to fire off and then it will idle reasonably smooth without it (albeit a bit low). Before the rebuild my bike would have never thought about starting without choke at those temps.

Also, once it's warmed up and I'm sitting at stop light I can hear the idle ever so slightly change. Not even enough to really change the tach reading but I can hear it somewhat start to struggle off and on when it's warm. I think this may be the plugs starting to buildup deposit and struggle to fire properly.

If I have to go more than 2 turns out on my IMS do I have to go to smaller idle jets? Should I step down to 38s? I am currently running 40s.

IW

Frankensteins Bride · « **Reply #805 on:** June 06, 2013, 08:29:10 AM »

My tank was leaking from the petcock but my honey solved that by putting a crush washer in it, and there was a lovely screw hole through the side where the badges go! He solved that too by using a long screw that goes through the hole with some pipe goo (no idea what that stuff was but it was white.) It'll work for now till I can find either a replacement tank or someone/some way to fix that hole.

Nothing worse then buying a brand new part to discover it's just complete junk. Hard to find decent stuff anymore! Did you pull your plugs yet to see what colour they are?

ivanhoew · « **Reply #806 on:** June 06, 2013, 10:29:03 AM »

Quote from: iron_worker on June 05, 2013, 07:44:53 AM

Where are you leaking from? I'm struggling with some fuel leaking of my own.

I tracked down some 7/32" fuel line from a Recreation Supply shop in town that fixed the leak I had coming from the barbed fitting/hose connections. I replaced all my fuel bowl drain o-rings and fixed a drip I had there.

AND my brand new fuel petcock (reproduction junk) doesn't shut off completely. Even in the off position it drips from the one hose port and so 2 of my carbs continuously receive fuel all night. It eventually overcomes my fuel needle and then I get some slight seepage from the fuel bowl or a drip from the overflow. New petcock on the way though (OEM).

Also new jets on the way!

New thoughts regarding the state of tune:

I think I'm still rich at idle despite being at 2 turns out (1 turn out is factory setting). Even on a cooler morning like today (10C ... 50F) I only need choke to get it to fire off and then it will idle reasonably smooth without it (albeit a bit low). Before the rebuild my bike would have never thought about starting without choke at those temps.

Also, once it's warmed up and I'm sitting at stop light I can hear the idle ever so slightly change. Not even enough to really change the tach reading but I can hear it somewhat start to struggle off and on when it's warm. I think this may be the plugs starting to buildup deposit and struggle to fire properly.

If I have to go more than 2 turns out on my IMS do I have to go to smaller idle jets? Should I step down to 38s? I am currently running 40s.

IW

IW , re tickover.. i think i would simply get it hot ,and turn the idle screws until it was happiest .something to note , if you have more cam duration in the engine , it may be happier ticking over at a little higher rpm .
robert

edhaeuser · « **Reply #807 on:** June 06, 2013, 02:47:55 PM »

Any word on the paint work?

iron_worker · « **Reply #808 on:** June 07, 2013, 08:13:07 AM »

Quote from: Frankensteins Bride on June 06, 2013, 08:29:10 AM

Nothing worse then buying a brand new part to discover it's just complete junk. Hard to find decent stuff anymore! Did you pull your plugs yet to see what colour they are?

I've learned the lesson several times with this project that OEM is almost always better. The repro parts are cheaper for a reason...

Yes, I've pulled plugs. They were quite black. Since I've been staying mostly in lower throttle ranges this is as I expected. I am going to try 2.5 turns out and if that makes it even better then I'm definitely on the look out for new slow jets. My new mains should be here soon... I was hoping today?

Quote from: ivanhoew on June 06, 2013, 10:29:03 AM

IW , re tickover.. i think i would simply get it hot ,and turn the idle screws until it was happiest .something to note , if you have more cam duration in the engine , it may be happier ticking over at a little higher rpm .
robert

I think that is the method one would probably use for an engine with PD carbs ... IE accelerator pump. I don't have an accelerator pump so I am basing my idle mixture off of how well I can "snap" the throttle open. Should be able to snap it open up to 50% without it bogging. For this, it has to be over rich at idle.

Quote from: edhaeuser on June 06, 2013, 02:47:55 PM

Any word on the paint work?

Well according to shop it went to the custom decal shop Wednesday... I really hope they're not lying to me.

I did speak with the company that sold me the decals and was told that the clear covering that we thought should come off .... doesn't come off. The proper way to do it is to trim the decals back exactly to the stripe (not only roughly trim them out as my shop did), peel the backing off, stick the decal down over some soapy water, squeegy into position, finally clear coat.

I asked about the clear being quite thick and leaving a ridge in the paint. He said it does leave a small ridge but it doesn't really matter and you can just add some more clear to make it smooth if you really want. They are sending me a new decal for the cost of shipping which I think was very honorable for them to offer.

Also, all this info was in the instructions for the decals which I gave to shop originally... I'm sure they have lost it by now though. Arg.

IW

iron_worker · « **Reply #809 on:** June 07, 2013, 08:52:09 AM »

And just as an aside, a story of how the luck of my life goes.

A condo building across the parking lot from mine was being painted last week and this week. They had been using an area right next to my truck parking spot to gain access to the back of this building. Wednesday night I came out to put the tarp on my bike. I store the my motorcycle cover in my truck during the day since walking back up to the apartment is lame. At this time I noticed a rather larger gouge in my paint right on top of the passenger side bed rail.

I think to myself ... WTF is that from?!!?! Then it clicks, the man lift/zoom-boom thing they had been using to paint the upper levels of the building was now gone. Obviously, they had hit my truck while moving it out of there. The scratch was smeared with blue paint and and my truck was sitting right next to where the equipment had to have been moved. There is no way a car our truck could have hit the TOP of my bed rail.

So... I take some pictures of the scratch, the area where the equipment was obviously driving, and I found the painter's trailer that he left there so I got his phone # from there. The blue color didn't show up in the pictures since it was starting to get dark (my truck is black) and the flash just made it glare.

The next day I decided I would call the owner of the company and chat with him. I was thinking he would probably not want any bad PR for his company so he would probably want to resolve this without getting the police involved, etc. He tells me he will go have a look and call me back... When he calls back he flat out denies that it happened. His employee of 17 years said he didn't do it so it couldn't have happened AND his 20,000lb lift would have ripped the bed right off my truck if it had hit. He goes on to say something that really pissed me off, "Sorry for your luck."

#$%*!

Once I get home from work I go over to my truck and notice the dirty sunnuva#$%* has come over and wiped all the blue paint off my truck! I filed a police report but I was told unless someone saw it or you have a sample of the paint they can match then I'm SOL.

So... looks like I get to pay my insurance deductible because of some unimaginable #$%*. Fortunately, I have a package policy which basically means my deductible is only $100 ... but I only have it because this is not the first time my vehicles have been keyed, hit & run, hailed on, you name it.

ARG!

Apparently you can't assume that people are half decent and will do the right thing.

IW

SF · « **Reply #810 on:** June 07, 2013, 09:08:00 AM »

i think there is a few guys here that can help with some problems of this sort

DustyRags · « **Reply #811 on:** June 07, 2013, 09:16:06 AM »

Oh man, this is EXACTLY what Yelp is for. And Angie's List. You can get your call logs online from your billing page of most phone companies- screenshot that, and include it as evidence. Take those pictures and hit them with an image editing program- it's amazing what you can do to lighten photos and make colors come out that aren't visible in the original image, even from crappy phone cameras.

What an ass.

ivanhoew · « **Reply #812 on:** June 07, 2013, 09:18:51 AM »

''I think that is the method one would probably use for an engine with PD carbs ... IE accelerator pump. I don't have an accelerator pump so I am basing my idle mixture off of how well I can "snap" the throttle open. Should be able to snap it open up to 50% without it bogging. For this, it has to be over rich at idle.''

i would use it on any type of carb IW .

i'd set the idles like that ,then raise the needles a cip at a time till it responded ,or try a larger main jet . or both .

Frankensteins Bride · « **Reply #813 on:** June 07, 2013, 01:05:00 PM »

That's terrible IW. I like the idea of photo shop your pictures to bring out the evidence. Either that or a brimmer.

SF · « **Reply #814 on:** June 07, 2013, 07:17:32 PM »

. Either that or a brimmer.

[/quote]

iron_worker · « **Reply #815 on:** June 10, 2013, 07:15:57 AM »

Thanks for the support guys. The policeman even mentioned that I could put up online ads for how bad their company is. lol

I was gone all weekend for family stuff but I did get out for a ride last night. What a nice ride. However, I did take the bike for a wash and I may have burned up my flasher in the process. Oops.

IW

iron_worker · « **Reply #816 on:** June 10, 2013, 01:18:22 PM »

Well looks like the new OEM petcock is here and the new main jet kit just showed up too! Woot.

Howerver, my gf is going in for surgery tomorrow morning so there probably won't be too much fun stuff happening for the next few days.

IW

vfourfreak · « **Reply #817 on:** June 10, 2013, 01:22:26 PM »

Hey IW,

there has to be a balance in life, and priority is family and close ones. So take care of her and let us know what you can, we are all connected here.

Best of luck GF !

Kev

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #818 on:** June 10, 2013, 01:29:49 PM »

Hey IW,

Good luck with your GF's surgery. I hope everything goes smoothly and successfully, and that her recouperation is swift and complete.

My better just had knee surgery 2 weeks ago and is on the mend.

SF · « **Reply #819 on:** June 10, 2013, 04:59:40 PM »

best of luck and smooth recovery to her

DustyRags · « **Reply #820 on:** June 11, 2013, 07:21:56 AM »

Woah, good recovery to the sweetie! The bike will still be there, spend time with her instead.

Frankensteins Bride · « **Reply #821 on:** June 11, 2013, 10:02:34 PM »

Speedy and complication free recovery for her!

iron_worker · « **Reply #822 on:** June 12, 2013, 12:33:22 PM »

Thanks for all the kind wishes everyone! Her surgery went as expected. She is sore and groggy but OK so that is all one can really expect. She sent me away this afternoon so she could sleep so I decided to change oil on the bike...

I've put on 110 miles since the first oil change and 140miles total. I'm up to 25,360miles. Woo! lol There was less "shiny" stuff in the oil this time but definitely still some in there. The oil didn't look as black though as the first time so that's definitely a good thing.

I also changed out my flasher relay... turns out that high pressure sprayers do in fact wreck flashers. lol

When I get some time to myself again I plan to:

-Change the mains to 120s
-Check the bowl gasket and needle/seat on #3 carb ... still have a very slight weep from somewhere. It's so slow that it evaporates before it even drips so it's not a big deal but I would like it totally leak free if possible of course.
-Check the valve clearance and timing chain tension just to be sure
-Fool around with the idle mixture to figure out if I need smaller idles

At some point I will also need to:
-Retorque the exhaust studs
-Pull apart the front caliper... again ... still have a very slight weep there too. The only thing left to try is to clean out the seal groove as good as I can. If that doesn't work then I need a new caliper body... wah!

If the main jets seem to help my high end bogging then I'd like to get some highway miles on it to really get going on this break in process.

I also talked to the body shop who has hired a decal shop to recreate the decals and lay them on... Sounds like they have made custom decals and are going to attempt to lay them today or tomorrow. So we'll see how that pans out.

IW

RAFster122s · « **Reply #823 on:** June 12, 2013, 02:32:59 PM »

If you have to replace the caliper body, DSS has reproduction new ones for $69.
glad surgery went well and all is good.

Metal in oil? Wth that isn't normal is it?

Car wash can cause ceramic coated parts to shed their coating due to thermal shock on hot bike...another thing to beware or be aware of...

deafcaferacer · « **Reply #824 on:** June 12, 2013, 05:05:01 PM »

Uh oh- looks like the arse fairy visited you too

Glad to know the GF came through ok.

Good luck with those SOB's.

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Author Topic: Project: 7-Fizzle - V1.1 - If only spring would get here... (Read 147698 times)