Author Topic: Met an old timer,gave some new advice (Read 4746 times)

Tews19 · « **on:** October 27, 2012, 07:49:53 AM »

I met a guy who was a fan of the Honda CB's. Stated he has had one since the early 70's. He asked if I drained the bowls for winterization and I informed him I do. He started goin on about how this is a mistake. Leave the gas in there he told me. By draining the bowls, the rubbers get hard and won't seal properly. He stated the gas saves the integrity of the rubbers and gaskets.

True?

Schnell · « **Reply #1 on:** October 27, 2012, 07:57:06 AM »

Sounds right to me. I never drain anything for the winter.

tango911 · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2012, 08:09:48 AM »

i never drain mine, but i also start my bikes up periodically during the winter. I use a little bit of stable if i know im not going to run bike for a long time.

bollingball · « **Reply #3 on:** October 27, 2012, 08:29:35 AM »

I'm with Tango. The old man did not have the same gas we do now. I'm all most 63 what is a old man? I use the green marine stabil and or startron.
Ken

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #4 on:** October 27, 2012, 08:52:16 AM »

The last 750 I bought had been stored for over 10 years. The bowls and tank had been drained and remained perfectly clean. However, someone had also loosened all the carb and airbox boot clamps. I just tightened up the clamps and added gas...and the thing started right up and idled perfectly. Further road testing revealed it to run like new as well. So i would guess, draining the gas and doing something to protect rubber parts is beneficial for long term storage, probably not necessary just for the winter.

Schnell · « **Reply #5 on:** October 27, 2012, 08:58:28 AM »

Quote from: seanbarney41 on October 27, 2012, 08:52:16 AM

The last 750 I bought had been stored for over 10 years. The bowls and tank had been drained and remained perfectly clean. However, someone had also loosened all the carb and airbox boot clamps. I just tightened up the clamps and added gas...and the thing started right up and idled perfectly. Further road testing revealed it to run like new as well. So i would guess, draining the gas and doing something to protect rubber parts is beneficial for long term storage, probably not necessary just for the winter.

Agree.

Bailgang · « **Reply #6 on:** October 27, 2012, 09:04:44 AM »

Quote from: tango911 on October 27, 2012, 08:09:48 AM

i never drain mine, but i also start my bikes up periodically during the winter. I use a little bit of stable if i know im not going to run bike for a long time.

Same here but I would agree that draining them is a good idea for a long term storage as in 1+ years. When I first took the carbs from my 550 apart it's bowls weren't drained and had sat for who knows how long. What gas that was still in the bowls had the consistency of molasses and stunk to high heaven. The smell of varnished gas is hard to wash off.

Steve_K · « **Reply #7 on:** October 27, 2012, 10:04:10 AM »

I drain my carbs every winter. I have yet to have problems. I also use Stabil in the tank. I fill the tank with premium in case I lose any octane from storage. No rust in my tanks. I store them in a heated shop, but I understand not everyone can. I use regular gas without ethanol during the riding season.
Steve

CoachDoc · « **Reply #8 on:** October 27, 2012, 10:23:58 AM »

OK, maybe I'm missing something here, but how on earth is letting gas sit in your float chambers going to "protect your rubbers" or whatever. Exactly which rubber parts are we talking about? Even the chamber gasket is probably not in contact with any fuel once a bit has evaporated........not to say I disagree with not draining the gas for short term winter storage, which should be no problem regardless, but I am questioning the reasoning mentioned.

Hush · « **Reply #9 on:** October 27, 2012, 10:43:03 AM »

I've had a few bikes that sat for long periods without gas in the tanks and they rusted right out, I'd rather they left gas in the tank, I can clean a tank but rebuilding them or relining them is a PITA!
Carbs I'd rather have drained as they gunk and green up inside, brass fittings seem to survive better when left dry.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #10 on:** October 27, 2012, 10:50:45 AM »

Use Stabil to protect your tank and be sure to fill it before storing for the winter. Or run the tank dry/drain it. Condensation from moist air will ruin a tank. Might not show up initially but just wait - pin holes atound the bottom seams.

And, if you turn your petcock OFF you can expect the bowls to evaporate and leave residue unless they are drained first. That brings up this oldtimer question - do your float valves/seats leak? If so you're not going to leave the petcock on and the bowls will dry out through evaporation.

I say when parked for any extended period to run them dry and drain remaining gas, eliminate residue/varnish, and keep the jets and passages from gumming up.

lucky · « **Reply #11 on:** October 27, 2012, 11:45:13 AM »

Quote from: Tews19 on October 27, 2012, 07:49:53 AM

I met a guy who was a fan of the Honda CB's. Stated he has had one since the early 70's. He asked if I drained the bowls for winterization and I informed him I do. He started goin on about how this is a mistake. Leave the gas in there he told me. By draining the bowls, the rubbers get hard and won't seal properly. He stated the gas saves the integrity of the rubbers and gaskets.

True?

WRONG .....that was before gas had ethanol in it that attracts moisture.

DanEarl · « **Reply #12 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:01:56 PM »

I agree with CoachDoc. The gas in the float bowls is not high up enough to touch any of the rubber parts inside the carbs.

I stabilize the fuel and usually shut the petcock off while the bike is running, so there is gas in the tank but not the carbs. Ethanol can turn in to orange gum. I never tried to crack the float drain screws loose. Re-connect the battery and it fires right up in spring.

Tews19 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:03:43 PM »

DanEarl, Milwaukee? Have a good idea how to adjust a clutch for a 750 and willing to help out??? For the life of me I can never get it right.

Thanks all for the input.

lucky · « **Reply #14 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:07:57 PM »

Quote from: Tews19 on October 27, 2012, 12:03:43 PM

DanEarl, Milwaukee? Have a good idea how to adjust a clutch for a 750 and willing to help out??? For the life of me I can never get it right.

Thanks all for the input.

You cannot adjust a clutch. You can only adjust WHEN it
engages with the lever on the handle bar.

If the clutch is slipping it cannot be "adjusted " into being useable.

Tews19 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:10:29 PM »

It's not slipping. I have a hard time putting it in neuttral after being in first. Not hard clunking or anything... Just have difficulty putting back in neutral. I've had it where it engages right away and when its damn near at the end.

DanEarl · « **Reply #16 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:11:31 PM »

I've actually never messed with mine, so I don't know how much help I would be. But that's not to say I wouldn't mind helping out. Didnt' even see you were from WI!

Tews19 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:12:43 PM »

Quote from: DanEarl on October 27, 2012, 12:11:31 PM

I've actually never messed with mine, so I don't know how much help I would be. But that's not to say I wouldn't mind helping out. Didnt' even see you were from WI!

yep, finally got my Gold K1 project together, took her for a spin around the block. Odometer works so I am still holding pat on the mileage being accurate....545 miles so far..

Whaleman · « **Reply #18 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:36:44 PM »

Sorry tews I do not agree with this advice. Dan

Schnell · « **Reply #19 on:** October 27, 2012, 12:50:45 PM »

I guess you do what works for you. I've never drained bowl or tanks over the winter and have never had a problem at Spring start up. If the bike was going to sit for years, then I would drain the bowls.

bollingball · « **Reply #20 on:** October 27, 2012, 01:27:29 PM »

Tews what does a clutch have to do with this? PM or start another post

Ken

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #21 on:** October 27, 2012, 02:33:27 PM »

Don't believe everything an "old timer" tells you.

Bailgang · « **Reply #22 on:** October 27, 2012, 02:49:46 PM »

Quote from: CoachDoc on October 27, 2012, 10:23:58 AM

OK, maybe I'm missing something here, but how on earth is letting gas sit in your float chambers going to "protect your rubbers" or whatever. Exactly which rubber parts are we talking about? Even the chamber gasket is probably not in contact with any fuel once a bit has evaporated........not to say I disagree with not draining the gas for short term winter storage, which should be no problem regardless, but I am questioning the reasoning mentioned.

My reasoning for not draining the bowls for the winter is simple and has nothing to do with protecting rubber, I just don't that's all.

killersoundz · « **Reply #23 on:** October 27, 2012, 02:59:37 PM »

So far the old bikes I've dealt with that had gas sitting in the carbs, it turns to a nasty green goo and clogs up everything and $%&#$&# your day

bollingball · « **Reply #24 on:** October 27, 2012, 03:31:05 PM »

It is all about the amount of time. Here in NC even in the dead of winter there are times when I can go for a ride. So my bike might sit for 3 weeks at the most. I start it up with my generator if I can not ride just to heat it up and dry it out.This takes a while even in winter I use a fan after a few minutes. The fuel from both gets dumped into the car in the spring. Just keep the fuel rotated and all will be good.
Ken

News:

Author Topic: Met an old timer,gave some new advice (Read 4746 times)

bollingball

bollingball

bollingball