Topic: 1975 CB750 K5 SPYDER

[Stev-o]

Hey Gold - how do you like that us cleaner? I've been thinking of getting one

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I'd love to have gold arrow's problem:

Life Is Full Of Challenges - And My Backyard Is Full Of SOHC4's

[Stev-o]

I'd love to have gold arrow's problem:

Life Is Full Of Challenges - And My Backyard Is Full Of SOHC4's

It actually is an easy problem to have (and fun!).  Start buying...

[goldarrow]

Hey Gold - how do you like that us cleaner? I've been thinking of getting one

it helped loosen dirt and grime a lot especially when the carbs are already in pieces.   but those tiny corners around the carb bodies still need to get to and I will probably use q-tip with those.  all in all, I think it's only worth the money if you tear down carbs a lot.  I will probably keep mine as I have few carbs from other bikes that I have to go through still.  unless I can come up with my own ultrasonic cleaner what really makes this thing work is the vibrating movement and warm/hot cleaning solutions.  may be i'll try to find an old foot massager and adapt hahaha

[RAFster122s]

Glass beading the outside of the carb bodies will give them a very nice finish and look. Then run them through the ultrasonic cleaner after rinsing them to flush the bulk of it out.
You must have cleaned them well before the ultrasonic as the purple Simple Green would turn dark brown to almost black after cycling through for an hour cycling on and off and keeping the temps up on the fluid. The sediment would largely stay suspended unless I let it sit overnight. Even then the fluid would be pretty dark. Would take about 3 cycles through the ultrasonic before the fluid would not have much color change for me. It freed up a lot of dirt I found.

David

[goldarrow]

Glass beading the outside of the carb bodies will give them a very nice finish and look. Then run them through the ultrasonic cleaner after rinsing them to flush the bulk of it out.
You must have cleaned them well before the ultrasonic as the purple Simple Green would turn dark brown to almost black after cycling through for an hour cycling on and off and keeping the temps up on the fluid. The sediment would largely stay suspended unless I let it sit overnight. Even then the fluid would be pretty dark. Would take about 3 cycles through the ultrasonic before the fluid would not have much color change for me. It freed up a lot of dirt I found.

David

great tips RAFster, I have the glass bead, soda, blast cabinet, and why did I not think of that??? lol.  may be I was too focused on getting the internals cleaning as the bike was very dirty when I got it. 

[goldarrow]

I had forgotten that I soaked the brass bits in the pinesol mix solution, and I had left them in there for too long.  brass bits came out black.



gotta love and appreciate parts bike that I have.  one brass floats have cracks and doesn't float anymore, so I pulled out the plastic floats out of my parts bike and assembled everything back.  float heights checked, adjusted, and straight 26mm across, measuring against the lip of the carbs bodies.



bench synched and slides move freely, routed new fuel line, and mounted up to the engine.  carbs are not level to the bottom engine case, so will try to mount again.



carbs configurations:  let me know if anything looks way out of line.
- 7A carbs type that I believe are from K1 bike
- main jets are 130, stock is 120
- slow is 40, matched with stock
- 26mm float heights
- 3 groove needle, matched with stock
- 1 turn out, solid tip air screws, matched with stock
- needle number 27201

I plan on using pods foam filter, or possibly velocity stacks, not sure yet.  stacks may cost about $60-$70, and uni foam pods about $50 to $60. 

[goldarrow]

small updates today.

pulled out groove joint pliers from tools pile, reached out to the carb boots and turn them slightly, carbs sit nice and level now.  numbers marking on the top of the boots are slightly off to the sides, not straight up.  got 4 of these emgo pods laying around, so they go on the carbs for now.



then took out the electrical panel out of the bin for refurbishing.  fuse panel is shot, luckily I have one extra in my parts bin.



painted up the batt tray/bracket and ignition bracket



cleaned up the pieces

[RAFster122s]

No, I would say that looked more melted than shot...

kidding

Congrats on the progress, carry on...

[Stev-o]

Or cooked, not kidding.  Good day.

[754]

Maybe you need totrade your Kimtabs for a set of. Astralites..

[goldarrow]

Maybe you need totrade your Kimtabs for a set of. Astralites..

Those look cool. I read that they are light weight. What are they made of?

[754]

I think they are 7075 aluminum, the nice thing about them is the width, which sadly the Kimtab and Morris lack.. They are Both 18 I think and are 2.5 wide and 3.5 I think.. But the adaptors on them were setup for Kawi..

[goldarrow]

another big accomplishment today i'd say.  cleaned up the main wiring harness, and all look good (crossing fingers), got it installed and plugged them in.  Spyder is getting closer and closer to be born again

off to do some shopping for oil and battery.  any recommendation?




nah, not another oil thread. 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Ballistic battery. Super lightweight and lots of cranking power.

[Stev-o]

Scorpion battery, $62 shipped. 

http://www.scorpionbattery.com/powersports-batteries/ytx14ahl-bs.html

[MoMo]

Scorpion battery, $62 shipped. 

http://www.scorpionbattery.com/powersports-batteries/ytx14ahl-bs.html

+1 on the Scorpion, use them in all my bikes.spill free ...Larry

[reddyvv]

You are like a bike building and painting dynamo. I get tired just reading your posts!! I'm dreading painting my engine and in this time looks like you've painted about five already. Great work.

[goldarrow]

thanks guys. 

was reading and looking through those AGM batteries, all I see the polarities are - +, where our bikes are + - 

how do you guys fix that problem? extending the + cable? or are there any specific part numbers battery with + - polarity?

scorpion looks like a nice price point. 

[Stev-o]

That's the correct battery, are you sure yours is?

[goldarrow]

Hmm....may be I'm looking at it from wrong side of the bike....hahaha

[Stev-o]

Hmm....may be I'm looking at it from wrong side of the bike....hahaha

C'mon man!

[goldarrow]

Spent whole day yesterday in the backyard shop and got a few things done on the bike. Hung it up on two sawhorses.  Pulled out the blue 750F gas tank for cleaning. 

Fair amount of rust inside. Put in evaporust and left it overnight. Expensive stuff but works wonder.



Washed out with water, then wd40, then rinse with gas. I felt like I owned oil refinery, dumping out gas like I have unlimited supply.  Lots of rust sediments came out,  Inside is now clean.



Evaporust after put in the tank overnight

 

Rebuilt one outlet petcock, mounted up. Only remembered and realized that the petcock is on same side of idle screw!



Mac exhaust that came with the bike was plenty of surface rust and greased up, so pulled that out for cleaning. First round after the cleaning.



Cleaned it one more round and shot some rust reformer and high heat BBQ paint, came out pretty nice.



Mounted up on the bike. Satisfied.

[Stev-o]

Looks good. Plz show inside of tank once evaporust has done it's magic, have a K1 tank that needs this process.

[RAFster122s]

The Evapo-rust is re-usable, so don't toss it.  It just looses effectiveness...
Works real well.
Electrolysis might work better if you have potential pinholes as the metal transfer that I think it does...but, thin areas might be better to show themselves rather than delay the pain.
With water sitting in the low spots for condensate that can form and then sink to the bottom, it is a good idea to use something like Sea Foam gas treatment to help keep the tank clean and the water in suspension.  Carbs seem to like it better I think.

That is a nice blue tank you have... is it Planet Blue?