Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build)

[minimo]

It's happening...

Float pivot pin on #4 was a real bugger. Followed some of tricks found here on sohc4 and used a combo of a Harbor Freight spring-loaded center punch and a 1/32" nail punch to drive the pin out far enough on the other end to twist it out with some pliers. Jets are looking ok aside from some gooey black gunk but plans to leave that soaking in some Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL to clean them up and replace the seals...

Progress?

[AintNoEasyWay]

This is cool. I've read the whole project up to this point. Subscribing to stay up to date. Great job.

[minimo]

Thank you thank you!
Still lots to do; so little time/money.
Hope I don't disappoint. Thanks for tuning in.
Carbs are taking me a while so it'll be some time before I report again, probably. Thing is I'm not sure how far I need to go with the scrubbing/cleaning of the carbs and their components so in doing my darnedest. One whiff of my living room can attest to the amount of solvent I'm using though. Catchin the vapors.

This is cool. I've read the whole project up to this point. Subscribing to stay up to date. Great job.

[minimo]

Cartwheeling motorcyclist watches his crash video

[minimo]

The on/off again carbs saga continues. Overlooked the "emulsifier tubes". Used a center punch to drive them out and a thin gauge guitar string to poke/clean the tiny holes.

[leetmeatcr]

How exciting. Good job with everything.

I am in the process of my first ever build, and I love some of your ideas. Can't wait to see how everything ends up!

[rtbmrgl]

Good going using Honda carb kit, I used a cheap aftermarket when I rebuilt the carbs on my 500, within a month the o-rings began deteriorating. I removed one of the bowls, had a plugged pilot jet and noticed the o-rings in bad shape. They cost more, but well worth it.
 

[minimo]

Thanks, leetmeatcr and rtbmrgl. Exciting and fun is what's it's all about, right?

As for common seals and other bits and things, I've tried not to stray too far from buying Honda. Partzilla.com has been my go-to lately.
I'm relying that my carbs, according to the PO, are in OK condition so I've done my due diligence in cleaning them as best I can. So as the carb saga continues, my next purchase for these things is to replace the spring clips for the hoses:
95002-02070 CLIP, TUBE (B7)
95002-02100 CLIP, TUBE (B10)
I realize these don't necessarily have to be the Honda ones so I'm stopping into my local Napa Auto Parts to see if they might have something comparable.

Also thinking to go with the Uni Pod Kit. Hope it fits and works. Any other recommends out there? I like the look of the K&N pods I can't reason with the cost.

Good going using Honda carb kit, I used a cheap aftermarket when I rebuilt the carbs on my 500, within a month the o-rings began deteriorating. I removed one of the bowls, had a plugged pilot jet and noticed the o-rings in bad shape. They cost more, but well worth it.

[minimo]

[Lostboy Steve]

Fabricated an under seat electrical tray today out of .118" styrene:

It's recessed 1" (same thickness as the frame). Probably not deep enough for stuff but I'll rest the stone buck back into the cavity of the tray so when I lay and set in place the styrene seat pan above it, I can run a heat gun over the area to create a kind of dome to allow a little more clearance for electrical stuff and wiring. Easier said than done.

I would like to know more about this process.  That electrical tray is awesome!

I too, would like to know what exactly is taking place there. Its super nice looking and I assume you could use the same process to re-create the stock airbox cover that always seems to be missing.

[minimo]

Taking notes

[minimo]

Taking cues from Bru-Tom and some others of you... I welded on some turn signal tabs right up against the frame hoop cut-off openings. May need to tweak it a bit to straighten it out but I'm pretty pleased with knocking this off my list. These aren't the greatest in turn signals. DOT-approval leaves little option for good looks.

[minimo]

Finally took a plunge and got some parts powder coated a matte black. Quite pleased with the results. If you're in LA, I recommend Tortoise Industries. They came highly recommended and I see why.

Now it's time to get this stuff mounted!

[minimo]

Sticking to the theme of "slow as it goes", here we go with the reverse process of pulling out the rear shock bushings and getting these pressed back in via the "outside going in" - a technique not forgotten from some post here because these holes are slightly tapered...

[goldarrow]

Powder coat looks great. 

[minimo]

Thanks, goldarrow! I'm pleased to be taking the powder coating route.

Powder coat looks great.

[minimo]

Back on the ground. No spotters = back straight and bend the knees. Ugh


Flip it on its side


Drop the frame down


Engine hanger brackets prepped/fastened (with rear engine bolts in for placement). Before/after scrubbing off rust/debris and polishing slightly


Don't forget the thread locker


Tightening down the rest tomorrow. Buona notte.

[minimo]

Whoopsie daisy -- back on the lift. Anyone know a good chiropractor?

[minimo]

On a side note here, just thinking about how far my build has come and how long it's taken me so far, I think more time is spent looking for the right bolts/washers/nuts than actually working on any part of the bike. Pretty darn pathetic, huh? Ziplock bags all over the place and a sad attempt to keep parts and their respective hardware together... There has to be a better system. Notwithstanding, the bags and bins and various boxes are definitely whittling down and somehow miraculously this build is coming together. I don't know what I'll do with myself once I finish this project.

[goldarrow]

Time to get yourself registered for MSF course

[minimo]

So I wish somebody had told me, yet I guess it's not entirely too late (nothing really is at this rate), I forgot to scrape away the powder coat at certain mounting surface points so that a proper engine/frame ground can exist. So, while I still have access I can get to at least the rear upper and lower engine mount surfaces, being sure to scrape away the paint on the engine surface as well. I'll have to pick up some dielectric grease or rust inhibitor too now... Sigh. Just when things were going kinda smooth. Pfft.

[minimo]

Time to get yourself registered for MSF course

You kidding, goldarrow? That means that I'll have to ride this thing when it's done I should just invite you to test drive!

[Restoration Fan]

Subscribed.  Love your comments and the build is looking great.  Very envious of the weather you guys have for riding year round out there in LA.

[minimo]

Thanks, Restoration Fan. It is a bit chilly tonight though.
:-D

So I got my triples on with the All Balls tapered steering bearing kit! Woo hoo! Seems to be the thing to do lately. Anyway, they turn pretty smooth.

Here's how it happened:

First, the parts




I'm not sure why I anticipated a lot more strife over this. Maybe it was because there are sooo many posts about it, one guy saying it should be this way and then someone else saying another. Whatever. The only way I could know for sure was to just get into it. So I did.

There are two distinctly different sized races & bearings. The bigger of the two goes to the bottom, the smaller goes up top. The same goes for the dust seals.




I set the races in place and smacked them in with my Harbor Freight Bearing & Race Driver Set. Perfect tool for this. Smashed them in with a dead blow. Oh, and before I forget to mention, I had the ALL BALLS sitting for a few months in the freezer; they practically slid in with minimal hammer time.



Here's the washer I used for the lower bearing. The kit came with two.



Here's the order of how they go on the lower tree:



I employed that other washer to smack the bearing down with a 1.5" PVC pipe and a mallet. Part went down with one big thrust. Easy peasy.




Made for a pretty snug fit



Fit the smaller of the two dust seals on top and turned the steering head nut on snug (not too tight - I still wanna be able to steer around on this) and that was it.



Next up... Installing the front forks which I've already rebuilt. Assembly is fun!

[goldarrow]

Yes.  Assembling is best part of the build. Cleaning up is the worst. 

I don't remember if the 2.7 mm is the thicker or thinner washer, but I have been using the thinner one on all my bikes that I replaced the bearings.  You can tighten up the trees nut until the trees stop turning, then back out the nut about quarter turn or do.