Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 174043 times)

Bootsey · « **Reply #300 on:** January 07, 2015, 12:20:35 AM »

They really nailed it with that video, too funny.

dagersh · « **Reply #301 on:** January 07, 2015, 12:11:27 PM »

I want that on a loop in my garage!!!!

Gersh

minimo · « **Reply #302 on:** January 29, 2015, 10:54:06 PM »

Shopping around to replace my rubber brake lines... Interested in swapping them for some stainless steel ones (Goodridge). There's a kit sold by 4into1.com that comes with all of the hardware but with this disclaimer:

This kit does not retain the use of the stock rear brake switch, you must use a hydraulic brake switch or a master cylinder with a brake light switch built in.

I intend to maintain the use of my stock MC (replacing and making a bunch of those parts new also), so say if I purchase this kit, what would that mean for the stock rear brake switch and how would I make this work?

Bootsey · « **Reply #303 on:** January 29, 2015, 11:40:06 PM »

Not sure if you've seen, but there's a member on here that makes stainless lines & offers SOHC member discount. Might be worth checking out if you haven't seen.
http://slingshot-cycles.com/

streak09 · « **Reply #304 on:** January 30, 2015, 06:33:57 AM »

Quote from: minimo on January 29, 2015, 10:54:06 PM

This kit does not retain the use of the stock rear brake switch, you must use a hydraulic brake switch or a master cylinder with a brake light switch built in.

I'm not sure how anything you do with master cylinder in going to affect your rear break switch. Maybe rear brake light.

If the problem is activating the rear brake because the new kit won't l fit to the stock brake light pressure switch in the front brake system, you can always replace it with a banjo bolt pressure switch at the master cylinder. Also might help with some wiring clutter. http://slingshot-cycles.com/products-page/bolts-washers-switches/banjo-bolt-brake-light-switch-m10x1-0/. Double check thread size before ordering, he has two different pitches. If I'm not understanding the problem, ignore the above

I bought my stainless lines from slingshot cycles, as Bootsey said. Haven't installed or ran them yet, but they look to be quality and I have heard good things. Priced right IMO as well.

minimo · « **Reply #305 on:** January 30, 2015, 10:28:30 PM »

Thanks, guys. Slingshot Cycles looks like they have quality products (DOT-approved too). I'll check into it further...

Anybody use the Goodridge SS lines and get the rear brake switch to work with stock MC?

minimo · « **Reply #306 on:** January 31, 2015, 10:59:46 AM »

I have one of these laying around. It's a Nissin MC with markings, "6T" and "14" wih a circle around it... Will this work on my 550? How?

goldarrow · « **Reply #307 on:** January 31, 2015, 11:00:37 AM »

That rear disc brake mc

kawabunga · « **Reply #308 on:** February 01, 2015, 03:03:48 PM »

I'm currently in the middle of reviving my '75 CB550F, doing a little forum trolling, coming across this build thread was great! So many tips to watch for. Learn from others, right? Thank you for taking the time to document so much information, I'm excited to see how the build turns out!

minimo · « **Reply #309 on:** February 07, 2015, 10:48:24 PM »

Thanks, kawabunga. Learn by watching how I screw things up :-)

Thanks for the recommends on Slingshot Cycles. I put an order in for some goods: brake hose kit, brake switch, speed bleeder (hope I ordered the right threading, M10 x 1.25). I'm anxious to get my front-end worked on again. Meanwhile, as I wait for those parts (including a MC rebuild kit, which I need to squeeze the front brake piston out), I've been thinking about how to mount my Phantom Battery (12V APP14A2-BS12) towards the rear, under the swing arm. Since I won't be relying on a center stand, I decided I'll use that space to mount a battery box somehow and came up with this:

Just a few Home Depot conduit hangers. Figure I'll customize a weather-sealed metal box and fasten some brackets to line it all up... Easier said than done, but hey, it's a start.

This guy came up with a clever and minimalist approach to mounting a battery around the center stand location. Looks simple but I can't figure out how he puts it together.

streak09 · « **Reply #310 on:** February 08, 2015, 05:25:56 AM »

I did a similar setup for my battery mount. Check out page 5 and 6 of my build. Hasn't been through the riggers of riding yet, but seems pretty strong. Just an idea. Only used a hammer, hand rivet gun, and cut off wheel.

rtbmrgl · « **Reply #311 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:52:58 AM »

Nice battery mounts, plus helps keep center gravity low.
Streak09 like your S90, Ive restored a few

minimo · « **Reply #312 on:** February 08, 2015, 11:05:06 AM »

Thank you and you.

I'm well familiar with your battery mount and box, streak09, as well as your under-seat electronics tray with the special recess for regulator/rectifier. Great ideas and excellent approach to working around limited resources (i.e. no welder - I love those rivets). I see many resemblances in your build and have examined your photos to cross-check/reference with mine. Thanks for that.

I'd like to see some shots on how you attached the battery box angled plate piece (the one designed in SketchUp). Is it only being held on by two bolts coming from the top of the center stand mounting brackets, through your battery mount? Not knowing exactly what materials you used and how things are attached, I had a couple more questions/concerns:

The shape of your battery box suggests a laying flat position. Should mounting upright not be an issue with these lithium batteries? I noticed in the Instagram pics of frankedens, his battery box suggested an upright position (that in my opinion makes the look stand out a bit more, but if for functionality sake...)

On your battery box plate, I noticed you have ears that slide into the gaps of the center stand mounts and I imagine you bolt/nut through those existing holes. Any part of your battery box resting on the frame or being supported by any other part beyond just those two points on the center stand mounts?
Otherwise, I'd be concerned about the weight of the battery held on at only two points, especially on bumpy roads...

I think it was Cafe Racer Dreams that rocked this very special battery mount system: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=h6dgqdo71li4k10pvrk7a914u6&amp;topic=37789.0

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

streak09 · « **Reply #313 on:** February 08, 2015, 03:36:02 PM »

Cafe Racer Dreams is very nice. The only thing I dont like is its mounted directly to the swing arm. I would think It would be a bit more rough because the suspension isnt absorbing any of the vibrations, where as the frame is damped by the shocks. But that being said, his is more rigid.

Quote from: minimo on February 08, 2015, 11:05:06 AM

The shape of your battery box suggests a laying flat position. Should mounting upright not be an issue with these lithium batteries?

No worries with the lithium or sealed batteries. Any orientation is okay.

Quote from: minimo on February 08, 2015, 11:05:06 AM

On your battery box plate, I noticed you have ears that slide into the gaps of the center stand mounts and I imagine you bolt/nut through those existing holes. Any part of your battery box resting on the frame or being supported by any other part beyond just those two points on the center stand mounts?

That is definitely the weakness of the system. Onece I get the bike going I will re-evaluate and see if I can get some attatchment to the frame tube. But I will say, it is prettu sturdy when the bolts are torqued down. having the plate pinched in the flanges give it some resistance to rotate and it is quite sturdy. I will for sure keep a good eye out when I get it going. Here are some more pictures of my setup.

Quote from: rtbmrgl on February 08, 2015, 08:52:58 AM

Nice battery mounts, plus helps keep center gravity low.
Streak09 like your S90, Ive restored a few

Thanks! I love the S90 , its a blast to ride.

Now, back to your build minimo

minimo · « **Reply #314 on:** February 08, 2015, 04:31:59 PM »

Back to it, indeed. Thanks for chiming in with the words and pix, streak09!

minimo · « **Reply #315 on:** February 11, 2015, 10:48:48 PM »

Alas, the MC rebuild kit and other MC bits have arrived!
See how far I get without retainer ring pliers...

minimo · « **Reply #316 on:** February 11, 2015, 11:34:37 PM »

Already ran into my first little snag with the MC rebuild. I can't remember but is there a CHECK VALVE - the little cup that's the first thing that goes in the sequence of the MC rebuild before the spring? My Honda MC rebuild kit didn't come with the CHECK VALVE, wtf.

My Clymer and Honda Parts List pdf (specific for '77 CB550F) has it listed but I didn't see it listed on Partzilla's part list.

Hmmm...

Bootsey · « **Reply #317 on:** February 12, 2015, 12:14:17 AM »

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-usa_model468/partslist/F++05.html#results

minimo · « **Reply #318 on:** February 12, 2015, 12:29:36 AM »

Thanks, Bootsey. Looks like the same diagram provided by Partzilla; with no CHECK VALVE part.

The YouTube video below demonstrates a MC rebuild for the following CB models:

1973 CB350G, 1973 - 1976 CB360T, CB400F, CB450 K3 - K7, CB500T, CB500 K1, CB550.

So this and the parts list would suggest that in 1977, Honda decided to omit the MC CHECK VALVE. I'd still appreciate some confirmation on this. It would kinda suck to install these parts, especially the rubber ones, and then have to tear them out later.

Thanks!

minimo · « **Reply #319 on:** February 15, 2015, 11:53:57 PM »

Gave birth to a piston tonight. Lots of push and struggle but the baby finally popped out.

minimo · « **Reply #320 on:** February 16, 2015, 02:20:24 AM »

Carpy's method of setting the MC up on the handlebars worked to get the brake piston out.

Since I'm still waiting for my new Slingshot Cycles steel-braided brake lines, figured I'd try to use my old lines that were clogged to hell. To clear them out I employed the ol' coaxial wire trick where I cut open an old coax cable and used the center wire to fish through the brake line, like so...

This video helped out a lot...

I found that using some needle nose pliers to fish the coax line down the brake line holes helped tremendously.

The inside of my brake caliper is not as bad as I expected. There's some rust and oxidization and crusty spots that I'll clean/hone using Carpy's rubber polishing wheel tip.

Meanwhile, I have a fresh piston plus a new seal standing by with the Slingshot Cycles brake lines and speed bleeder on the way; there may be light at the end for the front-end after all...

minimo · « **Reply #321 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:39:31 PM »

This battery box is gonna float, damnit.
This Harbor Freight Arc Welder is crap. But really it's more I'm crap at arc welding.

In either case, I'm working with what I got. Moving on next to bodyshopping the box - fiberglass/patch and make it water tight, clean it up, pad the inside, figure out the top cover, integrate some kind of wiring interface, figure out how to mount the sucker, and then paint it.

rtbmrgl · « **Reply #322 on:** February 23, 2015, 11:08:20 AM »

Quote from: minimo on February 22, 2015, 04:39:31 PM

This battery box is gonna float, damnit.
This Harbor Freight Arc Welder is crap. But really it's more I'm crap at arc welding.

In either case, I'm working with what I got. Moving on next to bodyshopping the box - fiberglass/patch and make it water tight, clean it up, pad the inside, figure out the top cover, integrate some kind of wiring interface, figure out how to mount the sucker, and then paint it.

Welding takes practice, grind edges, its its under bike no one will notice.

minimo · « **Reply #323 on:** February 23, 2015, 11:12:13 AM »

Thanks, rtbmrgl. Indeed it does take practice (and good tools).

I've ground down the edges and its made it somewhat better. Gotta fill in a bunch of holes and do some extra bodyshop too. I'll post pics when it's all complete. Y'all don't hold your breath for this one ;-)

Bootsey · « **Reply #324 on:** February 23, 2015, 02:56:10 PM »

Arc welding thin sheet metal is never easy in my experience.

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Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 174043 times)