Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 177592 times)

goldarrow · « **Reply #650 on:** January 13, 2016, 07:52:27 AM »

Alright let's rip the canyons!

minimo · « **Reply #651 on:** January 13, 2016, 07:55:11 AM »

Yes, goldarrow! And then some In-n-Out! I owe you some Double-Doubles!

minimo · « **Reply #652 on:** January 13, 2016, 10:16:08 AM »

ALL AROUND!

strynboen · « **Reply #653 on:** January 13, 2016, 11:13:48 AM »

if you vill make knee pads/ inpressed sides.

.then cut aut the areia....and get them veld inn back side aut..and vhen have open tank ..get it glass blast and nice klean..easy done in a open tank..all problems solvent in one job

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #654 on:** January 13, 2016, 05:28:23 PM »

Quote from: minimo on January 13, 2016, 07:23:18 AM

Cheers, calj! I owe it to you and everyone here for helping me get to this point. Thank you all so much for sticking with me through this journey.

I would like to straighten the tank out but I'm afraid the inside is coated with Por 15 tank sealer. How malleable is that stuff? I really would rather try to knock in some knee indents. Would it still be possible to do so or would it break up the coating and leave a bunch of shards? I do have the backup tank that I'm still in the process of stripping bare.

You are headed toward re-coating. If you bang in dents, it will break up the coating. If you repair it by straightening the dent, you will do the same. Then blast the inside and re-coat!

minimo · « **Reply #655 on:** January 13, 2016, 11:15:49 PM »

Hmm, a lye bath, huh? Sounds like something I'd want to dip myself into

Thanks for the tips, y'all. I know the dent is a tad unsightly but it doesn't bother me much. The points cover is prolly in worse shape actually. I'll add that these imperfections were there before I purchased it so I imagine they have some kinda story. Hopefully the CHP won't knock me for any of these dings. I do have another tank that is in better shape and without any significant dents - haven't had time to work on it much after a primary paint strip approach. May get to it some other time.

Aside from the dent(s), I need a better petcock. The cheapie I have on now needs to be turned a certain way so that it doesn't leak when I open/close the valve. OEM is hard to come by. Any recommends?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bootsey · « **Reply #656 on:** January 13, 2016, 11:30:26 PM »

Quote from: minimo on January 13, 2016, 11:15:49 PM

Hmm, a lye bath, huh? Sounds like something I'd want to dip myself into.

Probably not recommended haha, take some vinegar if you do though.

minimo · « **Reply #657 on:** January 14, 2016, 01:34:13 PM »

Ready to roll...

Wide angle Möbius ActionCam HD (C2 lens).
Chopped a 1/4-20 bolt and threaded it on with a bonded sealing washer and nut.

Ready for action.

minimo · « **Reply #658 on:** January 21, 2016, 12:58:09 PM »

A sloppy seven-minute practice ride around Griffith Park before my appointment with California Highway Patrol for VIN check. Keep your fingers crossed for me, y'all! Thanks!

minimo · « **Reply #659 on:** January 21, 2016, 04:39:57 PM »

Booyahhh!

Totally worth it! Thank you all!
The bike, however, is still a work in progress.
Still need to tighten up the speedo bracket and upholster the seat. Have a weird leak in the left fork and my front brake squeaks...

Zaipai · « **Reply #660 on:** January 29, 2016, 08:08:09 AM »

Grats! Enjoyed the video also!

strynboen · « **Reply #661 on:** January 29, 2016, 08:11:33 AM »

the front brake must sqveeek...for 1 seson or more..specily id you have new pads inn....so dont vaste time on that...it vear inn and gets better..(.in some years)..im running on 4 year.after rebui´ld).and it are perfekt now

Zaipai · « **Reply #662 on:** January 29, 2016, 08:19:47 AM »

Quote from: strynboen on January 29, 2016, 08:11:33 AM

the front brake must sqveeek...for 1 seson or more..specily id you have new pads inn....so dont vaste time on that...it vear inn and gets better..(.in some years)..im running on 4 year.after rebui´ld).and it are perfekt now

Correct they may settle in and stop squeaking, just make sure the brake puck is working and use some scotch brite to make sure the disc is not glazed over and it will settle down over time.

.: Scott :.

minimo · « **Reply #663 on:** January 29, 2016, 11:24:51 AM »

Thanks, everyone.
Re: the squeaky front brake, I was able to pull it off (along with the fender to get access) and scour both brake pad surfaces as well as the disc (with fine grit sandpaper), put it back together and all seems good for now.

My Primary Chain seemed to keep loosening up and looking on the parts diagram it would make sense to screw on some Chain Adjusting Nuts to keep those adjuster bolts from backing off with road vibration etc.
Tightening it down.

strynboen · « **Reply #664 on:** January 29, 2016, 02:19:18 PM »

....i made a homemade tensioner on my cb 400...to manual adjust..so it not vas spring loadet...it have to be very carefull adjustet..it starts" vining"screming if the chain are to teight to the plastic parts..and Wear all tensioner aut in a few auers...so be carefull if you force or make a more agrasive /direkt adjuster schrew..spring loading is safest..but somtime you need to push it a bit to get a perfekt resultat...
a kaburettor syncro use to make this engines perfekt..even they have some small rattel...before cyncro

minimo · « **Reply #665 on:** January 29, 2016, 10:22:35 PM »

I like the spring idea, strynboen. I may try to use split washers instead and hopefully that will be enough. Along with the adjuster nut, theoretically this should maintain friction and keep the bolt from rotating back... Any other recommends?

strynboen · « **Reply #666 on:** January 30, 2016, 05:57:12 AM »

oh

...i vas vriting abaut the cam chain..and you vrote abaut the drive thain....just use some kontra bolts to block it..

minimo · « **Reply #667 on:** January 30, 2016, 08:12:09 AM »

The Drive Chain adjusters.

My bad, guys :-/

minimo · « **Reply #668 on:** January 30, 2016, 09:46:55 AM »

DOH!

strynboen · « **Reply #669 on:** January 30, 2016, 12:10:49 PM »

watt and amps... calj....

minimo · « **Reply #670 on:** January 30, 2016, 06:47:30 PM »

I picked up some nuts to lock down the drive chain adjustment bolts on the swing arm, but my whole rear wheel assembly still loosened up and the alignment would be off again and the chain would slacken after even a light ride around. Serious head scratching, right? Well, closer inspection would reveal that the rear wheel spacer, or what Honda refers to as COLLAR, RR. AXLE DISTANCE 42620-404-000 doesn't seems quite right in my hub as it seems to be free floating between the two rear hub bearings. There's seriously at least a quarter of an inch of play in there so all the load has been carried by the bearings and the dampers, which I would guess is why the slack in the chain. Another potential death defying experience.

Here's a bad pic of the spacer:

And if y'all recall, I was told that the rim was from a 16" Harley which was said to be a common mod back in the day for stability or something like that. But if the collar/spacer was left like that, I would bet that was the reason the bike was kept in a shed after all of those years and was never corrected.

So now, I'm looking to correct the issue. Since it appears that the bearing retainer is shot on this hub, I'll have to scour around for a replacement and probably rebuild that one (including a re-lace and replacement of bearings and seals and retainers, etc. Anyone have a decent entire rear wheel assembly fit for a '77 CB550F?

strynboen · « **Reply #671 on:** January 31, 2016, 06:35:54 AM »

a maskinist can make a sleeve..and press it in the retainer)..and make it fit ..the veared part.. so all slock is gone at the moving parts....its not a big problem
...
..look like the threds at the hub is still fine???can you schrev a nev collar? on..if the threding parts is fine..

minimo · « **Reply #672 on:** January 31, 2016, 09:06:00 AM »

I like to think that the thread on the hub for the retainer is still ok because when I screw it all the way down (I had to remember that it spins clockwise to remove it) it felt like it was a good fit when trying to jiggle it around. But there is some play when I try jiggling it midway down the recess. It's as though the heat from all of the friction expanded the aluminum and made it all a little loose. To answer calj's question about whether I had "re-staked" the retainer, well, no, there was none of that, so I'm just all about disappointing you, aren't I?

Thanks for the suggestion of machining those parts, strynboen. That is certainly a strong possibility but if it can be replaced with the actual parts, like with calj's kind offer, I think I would rather go that route.

Sorry to hear about your garage roof, calj. If it's any consolation, some of your 550 gears are still safe at my place :-)
I'd love to take you up on your kind offer, AGAIN. Meanwhile, another friend was kind to offer up his spare 550 rear wheel and hub so I could examine and compare it to the damages on mine. Hopefully it's not all bad and I could reuse my tire and relatively new spokes; simply replace some parts and be sure to stake the retainer in this time. I'll keep you posted on what I find how it goes. But like your garage roof, it may take me several weeks...
Thank yous!!!

minimo · « **Reply #673 on:** January 31, 2016, 11:17:13 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on January 31, 2016, 09:55:46 AM

By the way, how is that assignment coming?

My attitude adjustment assignment is coming along just fine. I'm a lot peppier these days, thank you very much

What??

More on my action cam in case any of you have looked into it as a result of my post:

Quote from: minimo on January 14, 2016, 01:34:13 PM

Ready to roll...

Wide angle Möbius ActionCam HD (C2 lens).
Chopped a 1/4-20 bolt and threaded it on with a bonded sealing washer and nut.

Ready for action.

Do you see that stainless steel 1/4-20 all-thread rod? DON'T DO THAT!!! That was simply asking for suicide. I was an idiot when I thought of doing this but imagine you fall on the camera side and the asphalt pushes that rod into your skull and temples - skull harakiri. Muy no bueno.
Instead, opt for something less rigid like a plastic or a nylon rod, if you can find it. Hopefully, your neighborhood hardware store would have a plastic/nylon bolt that you can cut the head off and provide you with enough length to fasten all of the hardware and action cam. McMaster-Carr has these (they come in white or black): http://www.mcmaster.com/#93665A424

A plastic threaded rod would *hopefully* snap off at the point of impact in the event of some accident. I believe that these modifications done in the way that I have shown, and as long as the thread on the plastic bolt holds up well enough, should not compromise the Biltwell Gringo S helmet in either looks or cranial protection. However, I ask that you not submit these images and claims to DOT or SNELL - they'd probably have a fit.

As for the action cam, I'd like to mention that there's an option to purchase a 90° Wide Angle Möbius ActionCam HD (C2 lens) which would allow for vertical orientation of the image. This 90° lens option allows you to mount the camera on its side and playback the full wide angle range. In other words, without the 90°, you would probably want to get something as obtrusive as this:

While this method works and also provides you with improved adjustment of the camera angle, it also raises the potential for parts to come loose and become a hazard not only to you but to others on the road... Safety first.

minimo · « **Reply #674 on:** January 31, 2016, 01:17:28 PM »

I'm not 100% convinced about my hub and the integrity of the retainer threads (female part) on it. It may have been taken to a torch long enough to distort the thread to where now it's not a tight enough fit and this could potentially be dangerous, right? Also, part of the function of the retainer is so that it finishes pressing the bearing down, right? If so, I would doubt that it would be able to do this as sloppy as the retainer spins and pops out...
My Dunlop D404 tire and laced/trued Buchanan spokes have had their fun up to now; I'll consider them part of an expensive joy ride. But it's back to the operation room to rebuild the rear wheel and make it all right. Onwards to the foray of wheel lacing and truing...

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Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 177592 times)