Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 173906 times)

minimo · « **Reply #725 on:** January 13, 2016, 07:55:11 AM »

Yes, goldarrow! And then some In-n-Out! I owe you some Double-Doubles!

calj737 · « **Reply #726 on:** January 13, 2016, 10:13:04 AM »

I've not used POR-15 so I can't say. Castle cures hard as a rock, RedKote stays soft. Touch it and see is my suggestion. Worst case, find a good PDR guy locally and have him push the dent out. If uses a blunt tip, it won't pierce the liner but will move the metal.

I suspect hammering in dents will cause separation with any liner. you are stretching the metal a fair bit, and this creates a lot of stress on the liner. But you can always re-line it afterwards anyway.

I'll raise a cheeseburger in your honor later!

minimo · « **Reply #727 on:** January 13, 2016, 10:16:08 AM »

ALL AROUND!

strynboen · « **Reply #728 on:** January 13, 2016, 11:13:48 AM »

if you vill make knee pads/ inpressed sides.

.then cut aut the areia....and get them veld inn back side aut..and vhen have open tank ..get it glass blast and nice klean..easy done in a open tank..all problems solvent in one job

calj737 · « **Reply #729 on:** January 13, 2016, 12:06:06 PM »

You'll have to remove the liner before welding of course. But it still may be necessary depending upon why it was installed in the first place. Else more metal work/repair is required.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #730 on:** January 13, 2016, 05:28:23 PM »

Quote from: minimo on January 13, 2016, 07:23:18 AM

Cheers, calj! I owe it to you and everyone here for helping me get to this point. Thank you all so much for sticking with me through this journey.

I would like to straighten the tank out but I'm afraid the inside is coated with Por 15 tank sealer. How malleable is that stuff? I really would rather try to knock in some knee indents. Would it still be possible to do so or would it break up the coating and leave a bunch of shards? I do have the backup tank that I'm still in the process of stripping bare.

You are headed toward re-coating. If you bang in dents, it will break up the coating. If you repair it by straightening the dent, you will do the same. Then blast the inside and re-coat!

calj737 · « **Reply #731 on:** January 13, 2016, 05:37:21 PM »

For the record, biting liners is NOT the way to go. They really need to be dissolved chemically. Maybe you can find a shop with a lye tank and have it dipped. That will eat the liner in about 15' leaving pristine metal. Or, scrap the tank and worn the other one if the dent bothers you.

minimo · « **Reply #732 on:** January 13, 2016, 11:15:49 PM »

Hmm, a lye bath, huh? Sounds like something I'd want to dip myself into

Thanks for the tips, y'all. I know the dent is a tad unsightly but it doesn't bother me much. The points cover is prolly in worse shape actually. I'll add that these imperfections were there before I purchased it so I imagine they have some kinda story. Hopefully the CHP won't knock me for any of these dings. I do have another tank that is in better shape and without any significant dents - haven't had time to work on it much after a primary paint strip approach. May get to it some other time.

Aside from the dent(s), I need a better petcock. The cheapie I have on now needs to be turned a certain way so that it doesn't leak when I open/close the valve. OEM is hard to come by. Any recommends?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bootsey · « **Reply #733 on:** January 13, 2016, 11:30:26 PM »

Quote from: minimo on January 13, 2016, 11:15:49 PM

Hmm, a lye bath, huh? Sounds like something I'd want to dip myself into.

Probably not recommended haha, take some vinegar if you do though.

minimo · « **Reply #734 on:** January 14, 2016, 01:34:13 PM »

Ready to roll...

Wide angle Möbius ActionCam HD (C2 lens).
Chopped a 1/4-20 bolt and threaded it on with a bonded sealing washer and nut.

Ready for action.

minimo · « **Reply #735 on:** January 21, 2016, 12:58:09 PM »

A sloppy seven-minute practice ride around Griffith Park before my appointment with California Highway Patrol for VIN check. Keep your fingers crossed for me, y'all! Thanks!

minimo · « **Reply #736 on:** January 21, 2016, 04:39:57 PM »

Booyahhh!

Totally worth it! Thank you all!
The bike, however, is still a work in progress.
Still need to tighten up the speedo bracket and upholster the seat. Have a weird leak in the left fork and my front brake squeaks...

Zaipai · « **Reply #737 on:** January 29, 2016, 08:08:09 AM »

Grats! Enjoyed the video also!

strynboen · « **Reply #738 on:** January 29, 2016, 08:11:33 AM »

the front brake must sqveeek...for 1 seson or more..specily id you have new pads inn....so dont vaste time on that...it vear inn and gets better..(.in some years)..im running on 4 year.after rebui´ld).and it are perfekt now

Zaipai · « **Reply #739 on:** January 29, 2016, 08:19:47 AM »

Quote from: strynboen on January 29, 2016, 08:11:33 AM

the front brake must sqveeek...for 1 seson or more..specily id you have new pads inn....so dont vaste time on that...it vear inn and gets better..(.in some years)..im running on 4 year.after rebui´ld).and it are perfekt now

Correct they may settle in and stop squeaking, just make sure the brake puck is working and use some scotch brite to make sure the disc is not glazed over and it will settle down over time.

.: Scott :.

minimo · « **Reply #740 on:** January 29, 2016, 11:24:51 AM »

Thanks, everyone.
Re: the squeaky front brake, I was able to pull it off (along with the fender to get access) and scour both brake pad surfaces as well as the disc (with fine grit sandpaper), put it back together and all seems good for now.

My Primary Chain seemed to keep loosening up and looking on the parts diagram it would make sense to screw on some Chain Adjusting Nuts to keep those adjuster bolts from backing off with road vibration etc.
Tightening it down.

strynboen · « **Reply #741 on:** January 29, 2016, 02:19:18 PM »

....i made a homemade tensioner on my cb 400...to manual adjust..so it not vas spring loadet...it have to be very carefull adjustet..it starts" vining"screming if the chain are to teight to the plastic parts..and Wear all tensioner aut in a few auers...so be carefull if you force or make a more agrasive /direkt adjuster schrew..spring loading is safest..but somtime you need to push it a bit to get a perfekt resultat...
a kaburettor syncro use to make this engines perfekt..even they have some small rattel...before cyncro

minimo · « **Reply #742 on:** January 29, 2016, 10:22:35 PM »

I like the spring idea, strynboen. I may try to use split washers instead and hopefully that will be enough. Along with the adjuster nut, theoretically this should maintain friction and keep the bolt from rotating back... Any other recommends?

calj737 · « **Reply #743 on:** January 30, 2016, 04:01:06 AM »

I'm confused. Your primary chain is coming loose or your drive chain? The 550 doesn't have a primary chain adjuster, only a cam chain or drive chain adjuster.

strynboen · « **Reply #744 on:** January 30, 2016, 05:57:12 AM »

oh

...i vas vriting abaut the cam chain..and you vrote abaut the drive thain....just use some kontra bolts to block it..

minimo · « **Reply #745 on:** January 30, 2016, 08:12:09 AM »

The Drive Chain adjusters.

My bad, guys :-/

calj737 · « **Reply #746 on:** January 30, 2016, 09:45:50 AM »

No dessert for you! Plus, you will write 500 times: I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.

I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.
I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.
I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.
I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.
I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.
I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.
I promise not to mislabel components on my build thread.

(Thought I'd help you with your homework)

minimo · « **Reply #747 on:** January 30, 2016, 09:46:55 AM »

DOH!

strynboen · « **Reply #748 on:** January 30, 2016, 12:10:49 PM »

watt and amps... calj....

minimo · « **Reply #749 on:** January 30, 2016, 06:47:30 PM »

I picked up some nuts to lock down the drive chain adjustment bolts on the swing arm, but my whole rear wheel assembly still loosened up and the alignment would be off again and the chain would slacken after even a light ride around. Serious head scratching, right? Well, closer inspection would reveal that the rear wheel spacer, or what Honda refers to as COLLAR, RR. AXLE DISTANCE 42620-404-000 doesn't seems quite right in my hub as it seems to be free floating between the two rear hub bearings. There's seriously at least a quarter of an inch of play in there so all the load has been carried by the bearings and the dampers, which I would guess is why the slack in the chain. Another potential death defying experience.

Here's a bad pic of the spacer:

And if y'all recall, I was told that the rim was from a 16" Harley which was said to be a common mod back in the day for stability or something like that. But if the collar/spacer was left like that, I would bet that was the reason the bike was kept in a shed after all of those years and was never corrected.

So now, I'm looking to correct the issue. Since it appears that the bearing retainer is shot on this hub, I'll have to scour around for a replacement and probably rebuild that one (including a re-lace and replacement of bearings and seals and retainers, etc. Anyone have a decent entire rear wheel assembly fit for a '77 CB550F?

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Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 173906 times)