Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build)

[minimo]

Still a slight noticeable wobble on my rear sprocket... I removed the wheel again and remounted the new sprocket, torquing the nuts in star-formation and made sure all the parts are put on correctly and I still got a slight wobble.

I have an itch to ride out, so I put everything back on and to dodge the side wall from rubbing against the brake stay, I replaced the brake stay bolt with a longer one and threw on a shaft collar to shim it all up and now I have about 1/8" clearance with the chain adjusters corresponding on both sides.




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[754]

What I meant about the sprocket was if one side is shiny and worn, and the other side is not...its too far over on the shiny side.

[strynboen]

dont run that fzukc..there is a lot of power in the brake arm/plate..and that aut of line  vill give a strong pull aut to one side..  it vill be pulled to death..in the first hard braking manovre..
get some thik metal spacers,,to put betveen.
.or better bend the arm..to get a straight vay of the braking power to the frame/svingarm..

[minimo]

What I meant about the sprocket was if one side is shiny and worn, and the other side is not...its too far over on the shiny side.

Gotcha. I will take pics of the old sprocket to see about the wear. Thanks, 754.


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[minimo]

dont run that fzukc..there is a lot of power in the brake arm/plate..and that aut of line  vill give a strong pull aut to one side..  it vill be pulled to death..in the first hard braking manovre..
get some thik metal spacers,,to put betveen.
.or better bend the arm..to get a straight vay of the braking power to the frame/svingarm..

Thanks, strynboen. I will take heed of your warning. I'll work on bending a piece of bar stock instead of relying on the standoff/shim.

The bike does move smooth like buttah though. I'll be sure not to brake hard if I decide to ride out again before the repairs.


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[minimo]

Difficult to get a good shot of it, but I fabricated a rear brake stay with a 5/16" steel bar stock and some angled L-stock cut into a diamond-shape to reinforce the slight bend that I put on the stay close to the swing arm connection.

Strynboen, you see that I rid of the long bolt and shim in favor of placing the actual stay to make contact with the rear drum brake cover surface, just like OEM

So far so good on the test run of about 20 miles

Wheel is and looks straight and so far so good, my friends! Arigatou!




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[strynboen]

hope not to saund as a bad asssss..but ..keep a eye on that ..flat iron...it vill try to straiten aut..and bend back in to the vheel..but take a ride and thek it aut..it need to take a hard braking..so test it aut..in real vorld..keep a look behind you before slamm the brake..and good luck(mean it positive

is it possibel to let that L piece go almost the vhole vay back,,as you started it...that vill make it all more solid(and heavy)

[minimo]

thanks, strynboen.
I'll keep an eye on it for sure. But for now, having fun riding around again.


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[minimo]

I will consider extending the L bracket along the length for more reinforcement like the OEM part.


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[minimo]

Fabbin’ another seat, y’all!

In an effort to fit a beefier battery that has enough cold cranking amps to push-button start (because my tiny Shorai is seemingly limited).


Somehow, I’m going to stuff a rather large - in comparison to my LiFe Po - AGM battery into this new seat - no rear cowel. Going for more of a tracker style than a flat brat one as I had previously. A bit of a compromise for 2up riding comfort but we’ll see how that goes.


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[strynboen]

you can use baking paper..to slip the glasfiber..it are vaxed to slip..i used it on boat builds..laid it all over the form boat..and laid the fiber/poliester on top of it and rolled the air aut..after drying..and topcoat vith vax it just falls aut..

[minimo]

you can use baking paper..to slip the glasfiber..it are vaxed to slip..i used it on boat builds..laid it all over the form boat..and laid the fiber/poliester on top of it and rolled the air aut..after drying..and topcoat vith vax it just falls aut..

I like that idea, strynboen. I actually applied a light coat of Vaseline to the surface before fiberglass resin because I like things slippery ;-)


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[strynboen]

an other idea ..is to cut/clip.. the sides vhen it still are a bit soft.

.then you dont need to cut it ude angel grinder..and fill the shop virh dust.

.just use  a bit sandpaper after it have dryed finish.(.12 auers)

[minimo]

an other idea ..is to cut/clip.. the sides vhen it still are a bit soft.

.then you dont need to cut it ude angel grinder..and fill the shop virh dust.

.just use  a bit sandpaper after it have dryed finish.(.12 auers)

What do you cut them with? I am not ready to sacrifice a pair of cutters/scissors. But I suppose I can can clean them off with acetone. Good idea, strynboen. I appreciate the good tips


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[minimo]

I trimmed it while the resin was semi-gelled and it worked perfectly, strynboen! Clean up was very easy too with some acetone. Perfect! Thanks!


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[minimo]

On a rare occasion I stopped side-by-side with Charlie from Charlie's Place on what looked like a cafe'd black 500, I could be wrong. Gave a wave to each other, and when the light turned green, he left me in the dust. I didn't know that it was a race but I will know next time. So, Charlie, if you're reading this, ready, set, GO!