Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 173999 times)

goofy3392 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 13, 2013, 12:07:32 AM »

That part you were holding on the first page is the carb rack. Holds your carbs in line

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

minimo · « **Reply #26 on:** January 20, 2013, 05:03:05 PM »

Why my brownies taste of exhaust all of a sudden, I've no idea...

So I finally got to work a little bit on the IDK today. It's been a while. I started a new job just before the holidays and it's been difficult to get my schedule in line for personal projects and such. Weekends lately have been dedicated to helping out my friend, Kazuhiro Tsuji on his art project - I helped produce the stand/base:

But it's all good. I'm excited to ease back into some bike time. After I pop the crankcase out of the oven I'm going to aerate the place with a fan and some incense. I'll pop the header and some other smaller parts into the oven next weekend and get the place fuming of exhaust again. I hope to be alive by the time I'm done with this bike. Cheers.

Wutan · « **Reply #27 on:** February 15, 2013, 11:06:00 AM »

Any more updates on this build?
Very ambitious indeed for a first build. I can't wait to see it completed and running.

minimo · « **Reply #28 on:** February 15, 2013, 12:54:22 PM »

Thanks, Wutan.

I've been reminding myself lately that I need to keep making baby steps on this project, which I have in spurts, but I've just not recorded them like painting the header and oil filter cover - small things to keep me motivated and moving along and interested in this project. Every day (while I'm at work for 14 hours) I'm thinking about what I'm going to do next on my day off...
So in my mind, I've completed by the end of some week (maybe this one or the next):

- more painting of some engine parts
- assembly of the engine
- cleaning and replacing parts on wheels
- sending parts off for powder coat (frame, handle bar clamps, wheel hub, etc)
- cleaning out the fuel tank and rust (oh boy, can't wait)

Yes, an ambitious and daunting task to say the least. I also can't wait to see it completed.

I'll try to post more as progress is made.

Thanks for tuning in.

Quote from: Wutan on February 15, 2013, 11:06:00 AM

Any more updates on this build?
Very ambitious indeed for a first build. I can't wait to see it completed and running.

Stev-o · « **Reply #29 on:** February 15, 2013, 05:39:04 PM »

Hey, the Lincoln art project is very nice, heard that is a great movie. Who's the pretty lady, does not look like Mrs Lincoln! (or Sally Field)

minimo · « **Reply #30 on:** March 27, 2013, 04:00:38 PM »

Thanks, Stev-o. If I don't get this bike done anytime soon, the pretty lady may be on the roster to become another one of my future ex-wives.

I'm still stuck on my crankcase. I'm quite confused about these crankshaft bearings. They don't look too worn, but, there's a chance I may have removed them while cleaning and put them back in, and probably out of order (gulp). But I don't remember whether I took them out or not. In any case...

I'm confused. Is it just me or does it look like in the Fig. 144 drawing (below), the letters on the crankcase have lines drawn to indicate that they correspond to the bearings. However, when I read what's under the diagram:

Quote

The lower crankcase and crankshaft are marked with letters or number at the factory. These are production codes and should not be used or referred to during servicing or repair

So if I'm interpreting the words correctly, for example, in my case the letters on my crankcase read from left to right, "CBCBB". These letters are production codes and don't refer to the bearings?

Can somebody please clarify?

minimo · « **Reply #31 on:** April 11, 2013, 12:00:09 AM »

It's crankshaft bearing clearance measurement time! Woo hoo!
First time user of Plastigauge. I spent a lot of time reading about this process, and the more I read about it, the more confused I think I got. So to add to that confusion, here are my Plastigauge results after torquing down the mounting bolts at around 16.63 ft.-lb:

Looks pretty much close to 0.001" across the board.
Clymer manual states, "If the clearance is greater than 0.003 in. the bearing should be replaced". Numerically speaking, my 0.001" clearance readings are less than 0.003". The idea is that the more squashed the Plastigauge, the tighter the clearance so the wider the markings? So, this means that I'm safe, right? No replacement necessary? Should I still go ahead and replace my bearings anyway while I've got everything apart? Help.

iron_worker · « **Reply #32 on:** April 11, 2013, 07:27:54 AM »

I wouldn't replace them if there is no visible scoring or marks. The factory new clearance is .0008" to .0018" so you're mains are still like new!

You could/should also check your rod bearings as well though. They have the same spec for clearance as the mains.

IW

minimo · « **Reply #33 on:** April 11, 2013, 06:33:12 PM »

Thank you for checking this out, IW. That's very reassuring news about my crankcase bearings. There are little to no scratches on them so I'll cross my fingers and keep them.
Good call on checking the crank rod bearings too. Is there a proper tool to remove the nuts from the connecting rod end cap? None of my Harbor Freight nor Kobalt sockets seem to want make a good fit because they hit the round of the end cap. Perhaps a socket with a thinner wall would help?

These nuts are a tight fit

dave500 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 12, 2013, 02:24:37 AM »

you need a good six sided 1/4 drive socket.

minimo · « **Reply #35 on:** April 12, 2013, 10:24:59 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on April 12, 2013, 02:24:37 AM

you need a good six sided 1/4 drive socket.

Thanks, dave500. I've almost exhausted my search for a proper drive socket. Went to Pep Boys, Napa, Sears/Craftsman, looking online I found this http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=630993&group_ID=674775 I have a Kobalt (Lowe's brand) 12mm socket that works if I set it at a slight angle but it doesn't feel right and as a result, it marred the nut corners a bit. Is there a trick to removing these connecting rod bearing caps, gosh darnit? $:-\$

minimo · « **Reply #36 on:** April 14, 2013, 11:04:24 AM »

Local mechanic shop let me borrow one of their Snap-On sockets (Snap-On FSM121, 3/8" six-sided 12mm for ref).
The mains were easy, but how do I keep the rods from moving as I Plastigauge? Help.

minimo · « **Reply #37 on:** April 14, 2013, 02:19:40 PM »

Now, where'd I put that coffee?

minimo · « **Reply #38 on:** April 14, 2013, 03:05:19 PM »

Was able to steady the crank rods with some rags while keeping tension using a rubber band; I saw something like this done while lurking around the forums - maybe there's a better way. Anyhow, good news again. Crank rod bearings appear to be in good shape and within clearance tolerance:

For once Im getting a real sense of moving along. I'm happy.

Yesterday, on my quest to find an appropriate socket to remove these crank rods, I stopped by a local motorcycle shop here in Glendale and the mechanic was kind to give some great advice that "sometimes, when #$%* don't feel like it fits or you don't have the tools to do what you think you need, you gotta learn to improvise and make #$%* up. And don't be afraid!" I've been spending a lot of time looking for the "right" tools to do certain things and its made work on this build feel sluggish. So hearing those words meant a lot to me.

Next up, more engine assembly. Speaking of assembly, I know there's been discussion on lube and I picked up and applied some of this on my journals:

Quote

Prevents contact friction, galling and wear during engine assembly, initial start-up and break in.

The package also says, "Dissolves in lubricating oil during engine operation."
Hope this is the right stuff. In any case, moving along...

luceja · « **Reply #39 on:** April 15, 2013, 02:49:06 PM »

I had a very similar cb550f build (similar condition, same color!) build, hopefully some of the info here would be useful - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=71439.150

minimo · « **Reply #40 on:** April 15, 2013, 04:10:48 PM »

Quote from: luceja on April 15, 2013, 02:49:06 PM

I had a very similar cb550f build (similar condition, same color!) build, hopefully some of the info here would be useful - http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=71439.150

That's a sweet pic on the beach. Exhibition quality.
I will definitely check out your build and hope to learn a thing or two from it. Thanks for chiming in! Cheers!

minimo · « **Reply #41 on:** April 27, 2013, 09:01:14 PM »

Any recommends on how to drift out this bearing without maring the shaft?
I applied some lube and tried striking the other end of the shaft with a rubber mallet - no dice. Lightly tapping around the underside of the bearing didn't do much either. Is there a slight taper on the shaft? I'm replacing the bearing with a new one but the old one is still in good/condition. Should I just leave it and sell the new?

iron_worker · « **Reply #42 on:** April 29, 2013, 10:03:24 AM »

The best way to do it would be to press it out I think.

IW

Vinhead1957 · « **Reply #43 on:** April 30, 2013, 06:48:58 PM »

Bearing puller! + heat in toaster over 20 mins 300

minimo · « **Reply #44 on:** May 01, 2013, 09:53:31 AM »

Thanks, guys. Yeah, figured there'd be a tool specific for this kind of removal. I was looking to rig something with stuff I have laying around... But looks like I'll be making another trip to my favorite store, Harbor Freight to pick up one of these 3-Jaw Pilot Bearing Pullers. See if it works.

edhaeuser · « **Reply #45 on:** May 01, 2013, 03:13:25 PM »

I'm in. I want to see where this one goes :-)

Ed

minimo · « **Reply #46 on:** May 02, 2013, 08:34:14 PM »

How To Remove A Bearing From A Shaft; The Not-So-Easy Way - For Novices

Step 1:

Fit a valve compressor tool between the bearing and the end of the shaft. Turn the valve tool handle until your hand is raw, then employ large pliers to torque it as far as it can go. The bearing should lift some by this point, then...

Step 2:

Sandwich the shaft with some leftover wood pieces, placing the bearing on top, then strike the top of the shaft with a soft blow mallet. More than a few forceful strikes should thrust the shaft out of the bearing...

Well, it's like the guy at Glendale Vintage Honda CB told me, "Sometimes you gotta make your own tools to make things work" and "don't be afraid to bang on things". Those two ideas worked with removing this bearing so effing hell.

Next up, Rebuilding An Engine At A Snail's Pace

Stay tuned!

minimo · « **Reply #47 on:** May 03, 2013, 05:51:24 PM »

With my new replacement bearings ready and in place, I'm ready to pop in the primary shaft but I'm confused as to where this collar piece goes...

Is this looking about right (without the collar)?

Anybody recognize the collar part? Where does it go? I don't see it illustrated in the exploded view of my manuals.

minimo · « **Reply #48 on:** May 04, 2013, 09:57:26 AM »

Still clueless on the collar from my previous. It feels like it fits well onto the primary shaft but don't see how it can fit after/before the bearing...
How do I get this bearing back in? Do I fit it onto the shaft before or do I smack it in with a slide hammer?

Weekend engine adventures.

edhaeuser · « **Reply #49 on:** May 04, 2013, 11:00:29 AM »

Quote from: minimo on May 04, 2013, 09:57:26 AM

Still clueless on the collar from my previous. It feels like it fits well onto the primary shaft but don't see how it can fit after/before the bearing...
How do I get this bearing back in? Do I fit it onto the shaft before or do I smack it in with a slide hammer?

Weekend engine adventures.

You might try freezing the bearing and waming the case. It might just tap right in then. Do you have a large socket the same diameter as the outer bearing race? I will use a large socket and tap it with a hammer sometimes.

Ed

News:

Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 173999 times)