Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 173445 times)

edhaeuser · « **Reply #50 on:** May 04, 2013, 03:10:15 PM »

Oops, I guess I should have read you previous post more carefully. My reply doesn't answer your question. I don't know which way is best....sorry.

minimo · « **Reply #51 on:** May 04, 2013, 04:37:58 PM »

Thanks, Ed.
The bearing is in the freezer as I type. In a couple more hours, I'll pop it out and spot heat the bearing cavity of the crankcase (for expansion?), insert the primary drive, wrap the main chain around, slide on the bearing and see how it fits. Hopefully the freeze technique will compress the bearing enough to make it fit into the crankcase (without the heat treatment).
As a backup, I picked up an M12-1.25 hex bolt, a washer to match and will have to look around for a socket/sleeve big enough to see if I can utilize the threaded end to press in the bearing. It was challenge so far finding an M12 bolt but the local Napa Auto Parts came through for me.
Keep you posted. Thanks.

Quote from: edhaeuser on May 04, 2013, 11:00:29 AM

Quote from: minimo on May 04, 2013, 09:57:26 AM
Still clueless on the collar from my previous. It feels like it fits well onto the primary shaft but don't see how it can fit after/before the bearing...
How do I get this bearing back in? Do I fit it onto the shaft before or do I smack it in with a slide hammer?

Weekend engine adventures.

You might try freezing the bearing and waming the case. It might just tap right in then. Do you have a large socket the same diameter as the outer bearing race? I will use a large socket and tap it with a hammer sometimes.

Ed

minimo · « **Reply #52 on:** May 04, 2013, 09:41:12 PM »

I made my own bearing press out of an M12-1.25 x 5" hex head (a little too long but it's what was available in a pinch), 3/4" pipe fitting, and some washers. Such a good feeling to see the bearing getting pressed in as I ratcheted. But what a let down in the end when I realize that the washer hole got caught up in the taper of the drive shaft. So I'm stuck with a bearing that's not quite pushed in all the way:

I'm trying to tap around the inside/outsides of the bearing but it would be ideal to get an even press around it. I guess I'll be back to the hardware store looking for another washer with a slightly larger inner hole. Or, I'll be boring out the washer hole with a Dremel. Sigh. Never easy.

minimo · « **Reply #53 on:** May 04, 2013, 10:18:40 PM »

So, ended up using the old bearing as a washer. Yeah, pretty proud of myself for thinking of that one ;-) It pressed it in just flush enough, but also, just enough to get caught on the taper of the drive. The fun just doesn't stop. Anyway, was able to pry off the old bearing and there we go!
I dread the day I ever have to remove/install this bearing again.
luceja, you are a god.
Onwards!

minimo · « **Reply #54 on:** May 04, 2013, 10:29:29 PM »

A big DUH moment when I realized what the collar I've been scratching my head about is for:

Gonna get the circlip on and hopefully call that section done.

minimo · « **Reply #55 on:** May 05, 2013, 02:49:49 PM »

Trudging along with the world's slowest CB550 engine rebuild! Lower case almost complete. Next up, GEAR SHIFT DRUM MECH re-assembly. Can't wait to button the baby back up!

But before buttoning up the case, is it a good idea to quickly rinse out the insides of the upper/lower with say a splash of some mineral spirits, dump it out and then give it a good pressure blow-out around all the crevices? I just don't know what little flakes and bits of cereal and coffee grinds may have fallen in as I've been toiling with this.

minimo · « **Reply #56 on:** May 18, 2013, 09:44:29 PM »

Ready for some special bond time and lovin'.

minimo · « **Reply #57 on:** May 19, 2013, 03:38:19 PM »

Can someone confirm if there are o-rings for the (2) 10x16 DOWEL PINS (94302-10160)? When the pins are are in their place there appears to be a slight countersink to suggest that an o-ring would fit. I don't recall.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #58 on:** May 20, 2013, 06:17:16 PM »

Quote from: minimo on May 19, 2013, 03:38:19 PM

Can someone confirm if there are o-rings for the (2) 10x16 DOWEL PINS (94302-10160)? When the pins are are in their place there appears to be a slight countersink to suggest that an o-ring would fit. I don't recall.

You can eat off that thing!

minimo · « **Reply #59 on:** May 26, 2013, 09:30:14 AM »

Quote

You can eat off that thing!

Thank you! There was enough cereal in the thing at one point where I could have probably eaten out of it :-D

minimo · « **Reply #60 on:** June 01, 2013, 10:42:39 PM »

A little weight lifting onto the mount today

minimo · « **Reply #61 on:** June 09, 2013, 06:15:46 PM »

Clutch all scrubbed, plates/springs replaced, and all ready to go back. Slowest bike build ever!

minimo · « **Reply #62 on:** June 16, 2013, 10:45:04 AM »

Cleaned/sealed the fuel tank yesterday with the Por 15 kit and started to clean up the wheels using a pumice stone with decent results (before/after pics):

minimo · « **Reply #63 on:** June 25, 2013, 10:57:00 PM »

Rear wheel hub de-spoked, blah, blah, blah...

Thanks to my trusty Craftsman 6mm (spoke) wrench and the sweet smell and lube of Marvel Mystery Oil.

Onwards.

iron_worker · « **Reply #64 on:** June 26, 2013, 07:48:01 AM »

I may be a bit late but for my 750 at least, there were no o-rings on the dowel pins. The only dowel pins that had o-rings were ones that surrounded my main oil gallery in the front/center of the case and the 3 that went between the oil pump and case. Basically, anywhere there is pressurized oil.

Doesn't look like your 550 has that main oil gallery in the front though.

IW

minimo · « **Reply #65 on:** June 27, 2013, 07:45:51 PM »

Thanks, IW. I didn't put the seals in. Whew!

minimo · « **Reply #66 on:** June 29, 2013, 10:12:29 PM »

Slappin' around the wrong set of jugs on a Saturday night

minimo · « **Reply #67 on:** July 14, 2013, 08:35:25 PM »

Having a hell of a time trying to get the bearings out of the rear hub. Even tried heating around the bearing, albeit with a MICRO torch but I got the area around it pretty hot. Slammed up on the slide hammer soon thereafter and not a budge. Had some penetrating lube soaking in for a good while too.
Aside from the challenges of removing the retainer, which I've overcome, I'm stuck again. Help.
I may take the hubs into the ATV Repo Depot shop in Burbank. They supposedly specialize in moto wheels. There goes the weekend. Ugh.

edhaeuser · « **Reply #68 on:** July 15, 2013, 09:56:41 PM »

I've put engine cases in the oven at 170 to 200 to loosen up bearings. Also, with the puller you are using, tighten up the collet in the bearing and hammer from the other side with a rod going through the wheel and pushing against the bearing puller. You can get more force pushing on the collet than you can by pulling with the slide hammer. That's what I would try anyway. I got my swingarm bushings out that way.

minimo · « **Reply #69 on:** July 20, 2013, 09:02:48 AM »

Thanks, edhauser!
I eventually succeeded in pulling the bearings out and it was not easy.
I actually had tried what you suggested and pounded a drift from the other side of the collet but to no avail. What eventually did the trick was angling the drift to knock out, or rather, off-set the AXLE SPACER in between the bearings. This then revealed just enough of the underside of one of the bearings and I was then able to simply knock it out from the other side.
The axle spacer has these three small feet (or teeth) on each end that keep it aligned and in place between the bearings. Because my bearings were pretty well seized, neither pulling up on the slide hammer nor trying to press from one side to the other would work because the axle spacer was preventing it from moving.

Any tricks to taking out the bearings on the front wheel?

Quote from: edhaeuser on July 15, 2013, 09:56:41 PM

I've put engine cases in the oven at 170 to 200 to loosen up bearings. Also, with the puller you are using, tighten up the collet in the bearing and hammer from the other side with a rod going through the wheel and pushing against the bearing puller. You can get more force pushing on the collet than you can by pulling with the slide hammer. That's what I would try anyway. I got my swingarm bushings out that way.

minimo · « **Reply #70 on:** July 20, 2013, 09:18:47 PM »

Homemade valve compression spacer Dremeled out of a conduit coupler from Home Depot ($3). The valve compression tool was from Sears ($36).

A little wiggle-wiggle o the valve keepers and voila! All valved up!

edhaeuser · « **Reply #71 on:** July 20, 2013, 09:32:18 PM »

Always a good thing, making your own tools. Bravo!

FunJimmy · « **Reply #72 on:** July 20, 2013, 10:04:52 PM »

For a Noob getting into motorcycles for the first time, I commend you.
Sink or swim! Looks like you're a swimmer.

minimo · « **Reply #73 on:** July 21, 2013, 11:58:27 AM »

Thank yous!!!

Definitely trying to stay afloat.
It would be great if I could link up with some peeps to help me out though. Anybody out there in the LA area willing to hang and help out some weekends in exchange for meals and some beers? PM me.

Also, how do I get email notifications to work on the forums? I can't seem to get notified of responses to posts that I've made on my own topic.

bambuhiphop · « **Reply #74 on:** July 21, 2013, 12:01:06 PM »

Tap notify next to the reply button. That will enable emails to you about responses to a thread.

Great job on the build so far. Looking really good!

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Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 173445 times)