Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build)

[minimo]

Right in line with the theme of "two steps forward, one step back" (maybe three steps back this time), I find myself not appreciating the glare of this Gloss Black Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy spray paint. Too glossy/shiny; I'd blind myself riding the thing. So it's back to Fumeland (aka Aircraft Paint Remover); may have to hit the frame/swingarm with the soda blaster again - I could use a cleansing myself.
Goal today is strip off the paint and clean it all up - clean slate. Not sure yet what color or approach. Resisting the urge to powder coat... One thing is certain though is that I looove wasting time and materials. Slowest build. Ever.

[minimo]

An ooey-gooey mess of thangs... Do they do powder coat in a matte black?

[calj737]

They can. You didn't need to strip that paint. Could have scuffed it and sprayed over top with a satin or matte finish. Would have been perfectly good.

[minimo]

They can. You didn't need to strip that paint. Could have scuffed it and sprayed over top with a satin or matte finish. Would have been perfectly good.

Yes, but in my ambivalence, as I consider taking this the powder coat route I'd have to strip bare (or help a little in the sandblasting dept @ Mr. Powder Coats). Any reputable/cheap PC source in LA?

[Stev-o]

I suggest semi-gloss if you want an original look on the frame. 

[edwardmorris]

I suggest semi-gloss if you want an original look on the frame.

+1, specifically Marc/Powderman recommends Paccar Black 55% semi gloss.

[minimo]

Anyone a fan of this color/texture?

[goldarrow]

Anyone a fan of this color/texture?

That'd look great for a steampunk!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Looks like diarrhea.

[minimo]

That'd look great for a steampunk!

Ha! One way to look at it, goldarrow.

Thanks for the semi-gloss suggestions. I'll look into it. Meanwhile, I realize I still have some fabricating to do to this frame so painting it may have been premature anyway. I've yet to sort out my seat pan situation but I imagine it will involve some kind of welded mounts and an under-seat battery/fuse box/compartment... In any case, painting and removing the paint for now is, heh, all part of the fun.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Looks like diarrhea.

The paint sludge that is, not the bike.   

[minimo]

Ha! Well, as diarrhea is a waste not fully formed nor developed, so goes my build at this stage. So I concur, CB750. Diarrhea.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Ha! Well, as diarrhea is a waste not fully formed nor developed, so goes my build at this stage. So I concur, CB750. Diarrhea.

Not my favorite texture or color. At least it doesn't smell like it!

[minimo]

Well, it's the odorless stuff (methylene chloride) that kills. I choose stinky diarrhea over Aircraft
Paint Remover. Though diarrhea isn't too pleasant either :-/

[edwardmorris]

You're brave man, looks like you did this in a closed garage. i tried a small piece inside the garage, quickly decided to NEVER do it inside again. I did my frame outside




stinky crap but works wonders.

[minimo]

Nice pic. Yeah, the stuff works wonders. Imagine what it can do to your body??? I did keep my garage cracked open to vent with a fan pushing some of the air/vapor out. But yes, certainly should be doing it OUTDOORS.

[minimo]

Working out a mock up of the under seat electronics tray using 0.060" PVC strips. Plans to pour up a mold and use as a vacuform tool for thicker ABS...

[minimo]

Kind of all over the place today. My place is a wreck. Crafted a seat pan template out of scrap styrene sheet. With the final electrical tray in place, I'll position the final seat pan and run a heat gun over all the areas to allow for a snug fit before riveting mounting brackets in spots to correspond with brackets I'll have welded on the frame. I can then get some padding on the pan and send it off to some upholstery shop. Hope to make some headway on this in the next few days. Here's a mock up if the seat pan. Wow.

[minimo]

Fabricated an under seat electrical tray today out of .118" styrene:

It's recessed 1" (same thickness as the frame). Probably not deep enough for stuff but I'll rest the stone buck back into the cavity of the tray so when I lay and set in place the styrene seat pan above it, I can run a heat gun over the area to create a kind of dome to allow a little more clearance for electrical stuff and wiring. Easier said than done.

[streak09]

Great work on the pan. I did a similar setup with aluminum (nut not nearly as clean), and I think i'm going to have enough room. The only thing I did different was invert the back half and mounted my reg/rectifier there. It allowed me to have a lot of clearence and also allow alot of airflow to keep it cool.


I dont have a better picture showing it, but the reg/rect is mounted beneath the rear flat section.

I would be interested in a pan if you were to do a similar set-up! 

Bike is looking good, keep on keeping on!

[edhaeuser]

Fabricated an under seat electrical tray today out of .118" styrene:

It's recessed 1" (same thickness as the frame). Probably not deep enough for stuff but I'll rest the stone buck back into the cavity of the tray so when I lay and set in place the styrene seat pan above it, I can run a heat gun over the area to create a kind of dome to allow a little more clearance for electrical stuff and wiring. Easier said than done.

I would like to know more about this process.  That electrical tray is awesome!

[minimo]

Thanks, streak09. Your aluminum tray looks real fine. I would have loved to fabricate an aluminum tray but I don't have access to a break/bender; working with what I have.
I'd be interested to see how your back half turned out. I'm waiting for my Shorai Phantom battery to arrive as I plan on mounting it somewhere in the cavity of the rear under-seat area, probably placing it where you mounted the rectifier. All while I try to figure out whether I should incorporate a bob of the rear fender (how to chop it in a way to allow for a brake light and license plate to mount).

[minimo]

I would like to know more about this process.  That electrical tray is awesome!

Thanks, edhaeuser. It was all kinda quick and dirty. I could really try to finesse this next time. Maybe on my next bike (in another lifetime).

I cut up 1" strips of thin plastic sheet I had around. I then measured around that area under the seat, cut the strips, and then held them into place with tape, gluing the inside corners of the tray to maintain the shape (pic in a previous post - this is basically the mold for a positive buck). I then lay the mock up tray onto a sheet of aluminum foil and ran a bead of hot glue around the perimeter, making sure there was a tight seal all around (also making sure there'd be no leaks of mixed plaster). I slathered on a light coat of petroleum jelly inside the tray mold (as a release) and then mixed up some plaster and poured it to the hilt. Once that cured, popped it out, sanded/cleaned it (sand off any undercuts) and then a quick vacuform of it. I had to get another pull because I placed plastic shims on the ends of the buck (plaster positive) to help with lining up the mounting sections on the frame - essentially producing mounting ears; an extra effort to make the underside of the electrical tray to stay flush to the frame. My aim is to keep the side cover area - The Triangle - clear of any protrusion of parts as possible. We'll see how it goes.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Fabricated an under seat electrical tray today out of .118" styrene:

It's recessed 1" (same thickness as the frame). Probably not deep enough for stuff but I'll rest the stone buck back into the cavity of the tray so when I lay and set in place the styrene seat pan above it, I can run a heat gun over the area to create a kind of dome to allow a little more clearance for electrical stuff and wiring. Easier said than done.

That looks great.  How durable is the material?

[minimo]

Thanks, CB750.
The sheet I used is actually 0.090" thick black polystyrene; roughly the thickness of two pennies, stacked. The part came out lightweight, durable (with flanges on the tank-side, rear, and partial wrap around the sides of the frame), and I think thick enough to withstand the heat of the electrical stuffs. The next size up would have probably worked too (0.118") but I'm satisfied with this thickness and material. ABS plastic was my primary choice but not worth the extra skrilla.