Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 178017 times)

minimo · « **Reply #250 on:** November 27, 2014, 07:49:33 AM »

Yep, 2.7mm.That was the thinner washer.

I forgot to mention the copious amount of grease smothered into these bearings and races. I used Lucas Brand lithium grease. It was the red stuff. Should be fine as a lube and an agent to resist dirt and moisture, we shall see.

As far as grease is concerned, I'm also prepared to receive a 3 oz tube of Honda Moly grease http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08734-0001-Moly-Grease/dp/B0083BWUYW (and a mini 3 oz gun). I read that's the stuff to use on the swing arm bushings/axle and squirt into the zerks because of the lower friction on that part...

goldarrow · « **Reply #251 on:** November 27, 2014, 08:52:51 AM »

I don't think you'll be utilize center stand, but if you do, install that before swingarm make life a hole lot easier later

minimo · « **Reply #252 on:** November 27, 2014, 09:14:10 AM »

Thanks for the tip, goldarrow. I won't be using the center stand because I plan on mounting my battery somehow on the place of that. I'll need to mock up the swing arm to make sure I dodge it.

minimo · « **Reply #253 on:** November 28, 2014, 12:50:45 AM »

Good pointers here on pressing the tapered bearings in:

rtbmrgl · « **Reply #254 on:** November 29, 2014, 12:05:01 PM »

Quote from: minimo on November 28, 2014, 12:50:45 AM

Good pointers here on pressing the tapered bearings in:

Another way is to freeze the race then it usually drops right in. The opposite for the bearing, heat it up on a hotplate and freeze the triple tree. Done this for transmission gears and bearing for years.
Just another way with the same result.

minimo · « **Reply #255 on:** November 29, 2014, 09:53:17 PM »

Dremeled slight flats on some 7mm washers to go in the gaps of the fork tube clamps, because @SohRon said so.

Stev-o · « **Reply #256 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:18:19 PM »

Good progress. I like that bearing driver tool, may need to pick one up.
How thick are those D washers? I believe they need to be .090 thick or you risk cracking that triple.

minimo · « **Reply #257 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:21:16 PM »

Thanks, Steve-O. And good point about the thickness. I noticed they slid in very easily so the D-washers are probably not thick enough. Thanks for calling that out. Ugh. I gotta look for replacements.

streak09 · « **Reply #258 on:** December 01, 2014, 08:21:42 AM »

Quote from: minimo on November 30, 2014, 06:21:16 PM

Thanks, Steve-O. And good point about the thickness. I noticed they slid in very easily so the D-washers are probably not thick enough. Thanks for calling that out. Ugh. I gotta look for replacements.

I did some research on this topic earlier as I was in the same situation. The correct PN for the "D" washer is (53235-300-000), and it is either hard to find or very expensive when found. While searching, I found (from someone on this forum, can't recall who, sorry!) that the cylinder head washers from CB750s are the same thickness (maybe also the CB550s...?). I was able to pick up a set for cheap, and I will just grind the flats in them. I measured the washers I received and they all fell between 0.089" and 0.091", so they are right on. Hope this saves you and some others a headache! The CB750 cylinder head PN is 90485-035-000.

bambuhiphop · « **Reply #259 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:43:46 AM »

Quote from: minimo on November 29, 2014, 09:53:17 PM

Dremeled slight flats on some 7mm washers to go in the gaps of the fork tube clamps, because @SohRon said so.

I like this! Going to "borrow" this idea.

Blackfin5 · « **Reply #260 on:** December 01, 2014, 11:44:22 AM »

I think you should take the short drive down to San Diego and lift my engine in for me too. No spotters; geez. Yutes.....

minimo · « **Reply #261 on:** December 01, 2014, 01:27:25 PM »

Sure, San Diego is not too far. I can barter some of my weight lifting in exchange for some of your polishing expertise, Blackfin5 ;-P

That's some good researching, streak09. I'll keep that in mind. Meanwhile, I'm going to see if I can double-up on some thin washers to help fill up the rest of the gap in these fork tube clamps. I figure as long as these washers are functional, nobody's gonna notice.

minimo · « **Reply #262 on:** December 01, 2014, 03:43:20 PM »

The fork clamp gaps bugged me so I stopped into a local nuts and bolts shop, Luky's Hardware and found some washers that may work. They seem to slide in fine - they are thicker than the specs provided by streak09 - but I hope there's enough of a gap now to tighten the forks down.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #263 on:** December 01, 2014, 04:30:38 PM »

Are you sure those spacer washers are even supposed to be there? Only certain years and models had them originally from Honda...

minimo · « **Reply #264 on:** December 01, 2014, 04:46:18 PM »

I was just taking heed of some posts in the forums, specifically in SohRon's '74 CB550 build where he mentions that failure to put a "D" washer in the fork clamp gap could likely crack the yoke. I don't want to crack my yoke so I think I'll put a washer in there. Granted, mine is a '77 so maybe Honda closed the gap a little tighter after a few years of yoke breaks from customers? I certainly don't want a situation where I don't have enough tension on the fork clams and I hit a speed bump and my triples slide off my forks. Oh, what a nightmare.

minimo · « **Reply #265 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:00:14 PM »

In the 1977 CB550F PARTS LIST, there is indeed a "D" washer (#12, part no. 53235-300-000 WASHER, SPACER x2) applied to the top tree gap but not the lowers:

Boom

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #266 on:** December 02, 2014, 02:56:28 AM »

Good job on checking it out for certain. Sometimes on these forums, legends get bandied about for so long that half truths become facts.

minimo · « **Reply #267 on:** December 04, 2014, 09:56:05 PM »

Bike build regression. Ugh.

The story behind this is that in order to ensure a good engine/frame ground is to strip all the points where they connect, leaving those surfaces clear of any powder coat and paint. The best way to do this, in my case now, is to remove the engine from the frame and basically start all over again. Oh, fun.
Someday, I swear, this is gonna float...

Riceman · « **Reply #268 on:** December 04, 2014, 11:05:31 PM »

I'm just starting my first build and I know I will be experiencing
these same things...

bambuhiphop · « **Reply #269 on:** December 04, 2014, 11:38:08 PM »

Keep at it man!! If it makes you feel better I think I started before you and you are further along then me

dagersh · « **Reply #270 on:** December 05, 2014, 08:02:49 AM »

Minimo,

I ran into the same problem after powder coating my frame and engine. Rock Loc Beige pads on a rotary will strip the coating back to bare metal without destroying the surrounding PC as long as you are careful,

Mask up the surrounds for extra protection.

Let me know if you need me to clarify....

Gersh

dagersh · « **Reply #271 on:** December 05, 2014, 08:08:14 AM »

Quote from: dagersh on March 24, 2014, 12:54:13 PM

The Rebuild begins!

I also realized that in my Powder Coating, I neglected to mask off RH Rear Upper Mount surface where the Ground Strap is Secured, thus Grounding the Engine to the Frame. A quick hit of the Tan 3M Rocloc on my Die Grinder solved the issue. Oh, please make sure to wear eye protection AT ALL TIMES!!!! (Whew, that was close, deadly bits of Powder Coat hurt your face!)

I am assuming this is what you mean?

Gersh

minimo · « **Reply #272 on:** December 05, 2014, 08:29:34 AM »

Yup, that's exactly what I'm saying (as well as hitting the corresponding frame areas). I'm using something like a cheapy drill version of the 3M Rocloc that I had around http://m.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-Pro-4-in-x-1-in-Non-Woven-Drill-Mount-Quick-Strip-Disc-PNW040100D01G/202830913
It's working pretty well. Had to follow it up with some sandpaper in some areas, around 100 grit. Polish it up again and blow out all the dust.
Thanks, dagersh!
Thanks, bambuhiphop. Keeping at it, for sure. Two steps forward, three steps back is how I do :-)
Good luck, Riceman! Don't forget this step before you mount your engine!

minimo · « **Reply #273 on:** December 05, 2014, 04:13:35 PM »

1-800-4HERNIA

Some day, I think I'd like to move into a smaller garage, somewhere in Tokyo...

minimo · « **Reply #274 on:** December 20, 2014, 10:29:06 PM »

Ok. Who can guess what this is?

News:

Author Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build) (Read 178017 times)