The original gauges are back on. Gosh, they are MASSIVE. I was hoping to get my electronics sorted this weekend but the regression of this build will never seem to cease... Anyway, yes, the old gauges are back on because I want them to reflect the original/accurate mileage when I take the bike in for inspection/registration. So I'll be keeping these beasts on for now while the Koso chills out.
I tried to maintain as much of the Koso wiring as I could so that after all the registration stuff is complete it'll be a simple plug and play. See how that goes...
This regression back to the old gauges didn't come without some snags; literally. I spent more than half the day yesterday trying different methods of routing my throttle cables in a way that wouldn't make them bind, especially upon turning hard right on the handle bars. I tried to adapt to SohRon's method of fishing the cables while maintaining my drag bars:
- Before attaching the cables, "make sure the carbs are free and snap back from an open to closed position". Check.
- Begin routing the cables with the idea that "they run pretty much behind everything." I had to run my cables beneath the gauges because I'm using my drag bars which are a lot lower than the original Honda bars... The cables continued behind the brake line, the one connected to the MC and continue to wrap around the upper steering yoke...
- The cables continue to run behind all of the wires...
- The cables run beneath the tank mount, at which point the "pull" is then oriented to the top so that the positions are reversed when they eventually come through the frame, over the coils, and criss-cross again, forming a kind of "Y" at the bellcrank.
- "Push" cable is installed first.
I spent a lot of time afterward troubleshooting some tensioning issues. It felt like I was getting some binding upon turning the handle bars hard right. Eventually, it came down to simply adjusting the nuts and moving the handle bars from lock to lock position while testing the throttle. From this, I got a better sense of how to adjust those nuts and now there is no more binding and the throttle snaps back as it should.
Next up, wiring. Again.