Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build)

[minimo]

Re: RPM wire, so wrap it around the plug wire and tape it, that's it? So it senses the pulses via some kinda electrical osmosis?

[strynboen]

induktion  it be called in denmark

[calj737]

Osmosis or induction. So long as it works.

About your start button, could be you knocked a ground wire loose when replacing the Reg/Rec?

[minimo]

Induzione en Italiano.

Thanks, fellas.

calj rises again! It was either the Ground or the Grn/Red in the headlight bucket that was not connected properly - both bullet connectors were barely snapped in.
Now I'm tempted to try the OEM Honda switch that I recently purchased via eBay and cleaned up. I will try that in the AM! Thank you!

[minimo]

Is the bearing on the button switch supposed to move back and forth between its position when the button pressed? Or, is there supposed to be 2 tiny bearings in those spots?

These are all parts the switch came with. Anything missing here? Isn't there supposed to be a piece that's rocked like a see-saw between the Ylw/Red (Start) and Blk/Red connections?

[minimo]

Peeling the button mechanism back, I noticed that BLACK (middle post) is touching BLACK/RED.
These should not be touching, correct?

[minimo]

A little over a mile in and looks like we have a charge!
No NEUTRAL though :/

[calj737]

Confirm something: if you pull the clutch while in neutral, does the gauge light up? Do all the other info lights work in the gauge currently?  See you fixed the tach needle too 

[minimo]

Yes, the tach has been fixed. It's kind of a toy, this gauge. If anything, I rely more on my "ear tach" like many of you old timers.

No N light when pulling in clutch, calj. I'm digging into the wiring again.
I gotta clean up the innards to my headlight bucket - too crammed. That's probably what's giving me these electrical/wiring issues 'cos the headlight, when pushed in and attached probably undoes some of the connections.

But here she is at idle:

What a thrill of a ride. And the sound makes me feel like a real tough mofo. She's a head-turner.
I took her on the route through Griffith Park/Travel Town - that same one where my last mishap with the engine seize happened - and zipped through those turns and back to conquer that fear.

Aside from that, it's a fun ride. Some issues to work out still are:

- neutral light
- neutral gear is also VERY difficult to engage while the bike is on; a cinch when she's off
- gear shifting at times was difficult - may need further adjustment with clutch cables
- idle is high. Will do carb synch at some point soon to see if that helps things out

Next big hurdle - CHP INSPECTION

[calj737]

The Neutal is probably a connection issue when you swapped out the Reg/Rec. the GrN/RED wire comes from underneath the left side cover, up past the R/R connections. Look in that area and make sure your re-wired connection is sorted and fully connected. The OIL light (BL/RED) is also running along there, so these 2 should be easy to find.

How about the HI indicator and TURN in the gauge? Are those working?

I noticed the gauge was showing 15v while revving. Where is the gauge connected to grab that reading? I ask because 15v is a bit high and if it's truly accurate, it will cook that Shorai before too long. You're looking for 14.8v maximum.

[calj737]

Another thing about Neutal/Clutch issues: with a high idle, finding neutral is more difficult. It doesn't mean you don't need to adjust your clutch, but, before getting too oriented on that, get your carbs synche'd, idle set, then verify the shifting is problematic.

[minimo]

The Neutal is probably a connection issue when you swapped out the Reg/Rec. the GrN/RED wire comes from underneath the left side cover, up past the R/R connections. Look in that area and make sure your re-wired connection is sorted and fully connected. The OIL light (BL/RED) is also running along there, so these 2 should be easy to find.

Found 'em. BL/RED tests ok for continuity from headlight bucket to (under seat electronics) harness. Funny thing is I test GRN/RED from headlight bucket to the harness and I get continuity when I touch it with BL/RED and nothing on the respective GRN/RED. Something is going on in between here; some kinda mismatch, perhaps...

How about the HI indicator and TURN in the gauge? Are those working?

HI indicator works lights up when switched, yes.

I noticed the gauge was showing 15v while revving. Where is the gauge connected to grab that reading? I ask because 15v is a bit high and if it's truly accurate, it will cook that Shorai before too long. You're looking for 14.8v maximum.

Koso gauge has a RED (Koso Gray per the manual) that I run back to connect to the + post on the solenoid. I hope I'm not frying the Shorai.

[minimo]

Think this calls for some investigatin' under the left cover, calj?

[calj737]

Found 'em. BL/RED tests ok for continuity from headlight bucket to (under seat electronics) harness. Funny thing is I test GRN/RED from headlight bucket to the harness and I get continuity when I touch it with BL/RED and nothing on the respective GRN/RED. Something is going on in between here; some kinda mismatch, perhaps...

So this is confusing ^^^ BL/Red is only for the OIL, and not involved in the NEUTRAL. Focus only on GRN/RED. Do you have continuity on G/R from left side to handlebar? If so, you might double heck the Koso connection for NEU, then proceed to remove the left side cover and investigate the NEU switch under the case.

[minimo]

I will hone in on your instructions and report back soon. Thanks, calj!

Meanwhile, I been thinking about chopping/bobbing the front fender (to sorta match the rear) but I want to maintain the curled edge on the metal. What is that called and is there a specific machine or hand tool that can do that? Would any sheet metal shop have the means to do that? 3M makes an adhesive auto trim that mimics the look but I think that is kinda cheeseball.


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[calj737]

A good metal fab shop will it, but "adding" it a cut fender is difficult. Its called a rolled edge, or a beaded edge. Different names by different folks.

[strynboen]

you can carefull veld a round metal shaft abaut 5-6 milimeter..on the Sharp end of the fender..but it vill kill your crome...

[minimo]

OK, honing in on GRN/RED only.
Noticing a few things:
1) while in N gear I'm not getting the Neutral light to come on when I pull on the clutch while starting the bike
2) accidentally unplugged the GRN/RED in the headlight bucket, turned the key to ON and pressed START, the Neutral light illuminates (but of course the bike does not start)
3) tried switching ground connections that have continuity and no difference
4) I'm not getting GRN/RED continuity from headlight bucket to any of the harnesses - I do get continuity on GRN/RED with the bullet connector coming off of the solenoid.

Where has the wiring gone wrong?

Found 'em. BL/RED tests ok for continuity from headlight bucket to (under seat electronics) harness. Funny thing is I test GRN/RED from headlight bucket to the harness and I get continuity when I touch it with BL/RED and nothing on the respective GRN/RED. Something is going on in between here; some kinda mismatch, perhaps...

So this is confusing ^^^ BL/Red is only for the OIL, and not involved in the NEUTRAL. Focus only on GRN/RED. Do you have continuity on G/R from left side to handlebar? If so, you might double heck the Koso connection for NEU, then proceed to remove the left side cover and investigate the NEU switch under the case.

[minimo]

I think I beat you to it this time, calj!
It was the rotor on the neutral switch stator under the left cover that wasn't spun/aligned in the right way to make/release contact when neutral was engaged/disengaged. Here is a pic of it corrected with the peak of the lobe pushing down on the switch to make contact in the neutral position. Booyah!

[minimo]

[strynboen]

good it not fired up..it vas missing 1 tooth in syncro the cams..

[minimo]

There she is. Ready for CHP inspection.
Fiddled with some carb sync adjustment (used carb #2 as the reference) and did my best to match up the lines for the first time. Spent a good while picking at it; prolly never be perfect but close enough is good for now. The MotionPro SyncPRO is kinda cool but I'd opt for the needle-type gauges next time. Also, I think I'd rather have purchased the Koso speedo with the needle gauge that tells the MPH rather than RPM. I thought It'd be fun to watch the needle rev more wildly but because it works via the induction wire, it's slightly delayed and funky. It takes a split-second of more effort to glance below the needle gauge to check the digital MPH readout and I see how that split-second could be critical keeping eyes forward and on the road ahead. But maybe I still need to warm up to this gauge and perhaps there's still some adjustment necessary, so it's good enough for now.

Nevertheless, the bike keeps improving. She rides and shifts smoother than ever. Since I adjusted the carbs I got to lower the idle screw and neutral is a lot easier to find, as calj mentioned. Next order of biz of course it to schedule a CHP inspection and then I'll ride her out to have a shop upholster the seat. After which I'll probably bob the fender or even look into one of those Tarozzi braces. Oh, will it ever end?

[calj737]

Well done, Mini! What about straightening out that tank metal?

[minimo]

Cheers, calj! I owe it to you and everyone here for helping me get to this point. Thank you all so much for sticking with me through this journey.

I would like to straighten the tank out but I'm afraid the inside is coated with Por 15 tank sealer. How malleable is that stuff? I really would rather try to knock in some knee indents. Would it still be possible to do so or would it break up the coating and leave a bunch of shards? I do have the backup tank that I'm still in the process of stripping bare.

[goldarrow]

Alright let's rip the canyons!