Topic: 1977 CB550F IDK (first build)

[minimo]

So, this could happen...

Sooner or later, since I've relied mainly on kickstarts for the last several months of semi-consistent yet sweet riding on my 550, something like this was bound to happen. An attempt to kickstart this AM resulted in a "kerplunk-kachink" and all of a sudden there was no resistance on the kick down nor any ratcheting on the recoil. My guess was that the snap ring which had been reused had worked itself off of the groove and all the gears on that assembly came undone, and sure enough that's what it was.

As a desperate measure, yet maybe even a practical and preventative one was to attach a stainless hose clamp on the space of the shaft between the ratchet guide plate like so:

So now, even if that snap ring and washer on the end of the kickstart assembly were to fall off, the ratchet guide should still hold its place and kickstarts should still be possible.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

No going back. Well, maybe a little bit with some Bondo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

So, there's been some slack in my chain (resulting in a weird repetitive crunch sound while riding). Shot bearing, perhaps? I think the sound is coming from my chain.

In any case, anyone else have luck riding around on a 16" rear with stock sprockets? Is there a trick to lining up the rear wheel to mitigate uneven wear on the chain? The tick mark notches on the swing arm don't seem to be too reliable.

Cognito Moto manufactures a set of offset drive and rear wheel sprockets (and spacers) meant for wider rear tires... I'm wondering if anyone else on here uses them? I'm not sure what combination is right for my setup. Help?

Rear offset spacer
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/cognito-moto-originals/products/3-8-9-5mm-rear-offset-sprocket-spacer-for-cb550

Rear offset sprocket and spacer
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/cognito-moto-originals/products/copy-of-3-8-9-5mm-rear-offset-sprocket-spacer-for-cb550

Offset sprocket
https://cognitomoto.com/collections/cognito-moto-originals/products/17-tooth-3-8-9-5mm-offset-sprocket-for-cb750-cb550-cb500t




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[calj737]

The rim diameter should have nothing at all to do with sprocket alignment. And wheel bearing wear should not be wearing the chain. Is it possible you have mixed 530 front sprocket and 520/630 rear sprockets??? Is the rear wheel a donor wheel or just donor rim?

[minimo]

Here's the front sprocket:



The chain is a 100 Link 530.

Can't confirm on the rear wheel sprocket at the moment but here's a shot of it from afar; the best that I can give you for now while I'm out of town:


Thanks, calj!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

I'm pretty sure the rear wheel was just a donor rim with stock hub... again, will confirm with stamp on rear sprocket when I get the chance. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

Figure I'll work with a clean slate since I was using the donor sprockets anyway. So basically, I will be installing the following:

Black Sunstar Front Sprocket - 17T
Silver Rear Sunstar Sprocket - 37T
Dark Grey D.I.D 530 Standard Chain - 100L

Hoping this will solve the repetitive crunch sound issues and a much smoother ride.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[minimo]

So, I installed the following:

Front sprocket: 17T
Rear sprocket: 37T
Chain: DID 50 (530)-100L

Oh, and my rear sprocket was indeed a Sunstar 37 toother that still appears to be in decent condition - flat plateau at the peaks and no big offset nor wear in the valleys nor the sides.


Decided to change it all out and start from scratch anyway. This Harley 16" rear must be slightly wider (w/ 5.5" wide tire) than stock and I try my best at lining up the chain adjusters with the notches to match on both sides of the swingarm. This is the challenging part of it all to adjust the chain evenly but also to keep the sidewall of the tire to hit the brake stay at the same time... I'm very tempted to fabricate a brake stay and put a slight bend at the point which it would make contact with the tire.
Any ideas?

So when I feel like I get it all right, while I've got the rear end up, I'll spin the wheel in the forward direction and upon glancing at the bike from the left side, I notice a slight up and down sort of oscillation going on as the wheel spins. Shouldn't the chain move evenly or is this wavey movement from the 3/4" slack that I leave on the chain (and while the rear is lifted and not on load)? Maybe I could upload a video to better exemplify?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[calj737]

What dimension tire are you running? (Curious) Is the 3/4" slack to be when loaded  or unloaded per your manual?

[minimo]

What dimension tire are you running? (Curious) Is the 3/4" slack to be when loaded  or unloaded per your manual?

Will confirm on the actual tire size later - they are Dunlop D404.

Per the manual:

"Normal chain slack is 10~20mm (3/8~3/4") with a slight force."
Didn't specify whether with/without load...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[754]

Show the backside of rear sprocket and I can tell if it was running out of line.

[minimo]

My rear tire on the 16" wheel:

Dunlop D404
130/90-16 M/C 67H


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[calj737]

The 130 tire should not be a problem at all, especially with a 16" rim.

[minimo]

Thanks, calj.
I'll work on getting the back view photo for you, 754.

The only issue I see with my chain adjustment, before I go completely nuts thinking it's something else (which it very well could be), is how the side wall of the tire rubs against the brake stay. A quick fix would be to pound out a bit of clearance but I want to make sure it's an issue with the alignment or something else before I would do that.

Here's a picture of how the alignments look from the rear as I have both left/right side notches corresponding on the same tick marks - on the 2nd marks:

LEFT SIDE - note* I had to rescribe this notch because it became faint after a powder coat.


RIGHT SIDE


Shot from the rear with both left/right notches on correponding 2nd tick marks


Here's a shot of the side wall of the tire rubbing against the brake stay in this position





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[754]

Take an a angle grinder to edge of tire, or shim brake arm out.

[minimo]

Take an a angle grinder to edge of tire, or shim brake arm out.

I'm not sure about taking a grinder to my side wall but I do like the shim idea...
I just hope it doesn't come to close to contacting the swing arm.
I'll give it a shot.

Thanks, 754.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

Still a slight noticeable wobble on my rear sprocket... I removed the wheel again and remounted the new sprocket, torquing the nuts in star-formation and made sure all the parts are put on correctly and I still got a slight wobble.

I have an itch to ride out, so I put everything back on and to dodge the side wall from rubbing against the brake stay, I replaced the brake stay bolt with a longer one and threw on a shaft collar to shim it all up and now I have about 1/8" clearance with the chain adjusters corresponding on both sides.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[754]

What I meant about the sprocket was if one side is shiny and worn, and the other side is not...its too far over on the shiny side.

[strynboen]

dont run that fzukc..there is a lot of power in the brake arm/plate..and that aut of line  vill give a strong pull aut to one side..  it vill be pulled to death..in the first hard braking manovre..
get some thik metal spacers,,to put betveen.
.or better bend the arm..to get a straight vay of the braking power to the frame/svingarm..

[minimo]

What I meant about the sprocket was if one side is shiny and worn, and the other side is not...its too far over on the shiny side.

Gotcha. I will take pics of the old sprocket to see about the wear. Thanks, 754.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

dont run that fzukc..there is a lot of power in the brake arm/plate..and that aut of line  vill give a strong pull aut to one side..  it vill be pulled to death..in the first hard braking manovre..
get some thik metal spacers,,to put betveen.
.or better bend the arm..to get a straight vay of the braking power to the frame/svingarm..

Thanks, strynboen. I will take heed of your warning. I'll work on bending a piece of bar stock instead of relying on the standoff/shim.

The bike does move smooth like buttah though. I'll be sure not to brake hard if I decide to ride out again before the repairs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

Difficult to get a good shot of it, but I fabricated a rear brake stay with a 5/16" steel bar stock and some angled L-stock cut into a diamond-shape to reinforce the slight bend that I put on the stay close to the swing arm connection.

Strynboen, you see that I rid of the long bolt and shim in favor of placing the actual stay to make contact with the rear drum brake cover surface, just like OEM

So far so good on the test run of about 20 miles

Wheel is and looks straight and so far so good, my friends! Arigatou!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[strynboen]

hope not to saund as a bad asssss..but ..keep a eye on that ..flat iron...it vill try to straiten aut..and bend back in to the vheel..but take a ride and thek it aut..it need to take a hard braking..so test it aut..in real vorld..keep a look behind you before slamm the brake..and good luck(mean it positive

is it possibel to let that L piece go almost the vhole vay back,,as you started it...that vill make it all more solid(and heavy)

[minimo]

thanks, strynboen.
I'll keep an eye on it for sure. But for now, having fun riding around again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[minimo]

I will consider extending the L bracket along the length for more reinforcement like the OEM part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk